• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2001.11a
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• pp.158-163
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• 2001

본 논문의 국내 패션 업체에서 상품기획 과정 중 많은 시간과 노력을 투자해야 했던 디자인 및 패턴 자료를 데이터베이스화하여 key word를 통해 효율적으로 찾아 사용할 수 있도록 한 디지털 여성 자켓 분류 데이터베이스 시스템을 개발하고자 실시되었다. 이를 위해 의류업체 종사자 48명과 의류학 전공 대학원생 54명, 패턴 전문가 11명을 대상으로 설문조사 및 인터뷰를 실시하여 디자인 및 패턴의 분류 기준과 의류 생산기획 업무의 디지털화 가능성을 검토하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 국내 의류업체에서는 상품기획시 국외패션잡지와 collection지를 가장 많이 활용하고 있었으며, 디자인 및 패턴 DB 프로그램에 대한 효용성 기대와 수용도 기대에는 집단간 유의한 차이가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 여성 자켓 디자인 DB를 위한 구성요소 분류 기준은 7가지고 선정되었고, 이미지 형용사 분류 기준은 6가지로 선정되었다. 또한 자켓 제작을 위한 block pattern 분류 기준은 4가지로 선정되었다. 본 연구를 통해 개발된 자켓 디자인 선택 프로그램의 모델을 제시한 후 실험 참가자들에게 효용성 및 사용가능성을 다시 검증한 결과, 프로그램 제시 전 조사결과보다 유의하게 긍정적으로 평가되었으며, 데이터베이스 자료 활용시 이미지 형용사를 통한 검색보다는 구성요소를 통한 검색에 더 만족하는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of Distribution Research
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.73-97
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• 2005

The importance of emotional factors like as product aesthetics, branding strategies and service quality is increasing in today's marketplace. At the point of fashion product purchases, emotional factor is mainly related to personal selling. Rasearches related to job aptitudity of fashion salesperson are necessary as their role becoming more serious. This study was designed (1) to determine factors of job aptitudity of fashion salesperson; and (2) to examine relations between job aptitudity of fashion salesperson and other variables: demographics, job statistics, fashion involvement fashion innovativeness, ongoing information searching and job satisfaction. As a result, job aptitudty of fashion salesperson was determined into six dimensions by factor analysis: product knowledge, professionalism, involvement to the present profession, marketing cooperator, customer orientation and self management. Marketing cooperator and product knowledge was relatively !ow compared to other aptitudity factors. This finding suggests that the special education programs including textile/fashion product knowledge and value of field information for fashion salesperson is needed to enhance the integrated fashion marketing. The job aptitudity of salesperson was correlated with fashion involvement, fashion innovativeness, ongoing information searching, and job satisfaction. The job aptitudity-related scales which showed significant relation to job aptitudity in this study could be used as the index to examine the job aptitudity of potential employees of fashion retail company.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.628-636
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• 1994

One vertical (medianus) and six horizontal (chest, bust, below bust, waist, abdomen and hip) sections of nine healthy pregnant women were examined every month by siliding gauge method during the period from 3rd to loth monthes of pregnancy. In the body changes along the passing months of pregnancy, which were observed by a follow·up measurement, there was little change on the posterior line when viewed using a vertical cross section. On the contrary, there was a great deal of increase on the anterior median line. Particularly, the degree of protrusion was great in the waist and ubilicus area due to pregnancy. At early pregnancy the distance from front to back is much shorter than side to side, however, as pregnancy progressed the front to back distance, on a horizontal cross section, is almost equal to the side to side distance.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.42-47
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• 1999

본 연구는 노멕스 직물과 일반 방염직물의 쾌적성에 영향을 주는 중요한 인자를 찾기 위하여 직물의 열적 성질과 역학 성질에 관하여 연구한 것이다. 사용된 직물은 재해를 일으킬 수 있는 환경에서 방호용 의복으로 사용되는 노멕스 직물이 주를 이루며, 비교를 위하여 방염직물과 쾌적성이 좋은 일반직물을 포함시켰다. 직물의 물리적 성질과 열 특성을 측정하였으며, 역학 성질을 측정하여 노멕스 직물과 다른 직물을 서로 비교 분석하였다. 노멕스 직물은 파이버 자체가 뻣뻣하기 때문에 쾌적성을 향상시키기 위해서는 소프트감을 높이는 것이 중요한 요소라는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 같은 노멕스 직물이라도 쾌적성 면에서 서로 차이를 보여주므로 직물의 구조적 성질이 직물을 구성하고 있는 파이버 성질보다 쾌적성에 더 영향을 미치는 것을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.589-599
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate compostion factor and special qualities of design about Korean clothing image. The 72 samples were obtained from domestic fashion magazines. The questionnaire, which was composed 23 semantic diffrential bi-polar scales, was distributed to 50 female students majoring in Clothing and Textiles. The data were analyzed through factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test, clust analysis. The results were as follows; 1) Through factor analysis about Korean clothing image, 5 factors were identified; elegance, simplicity, femininity, tradition, looseness. 2) By cluster analysis, 3 clusters were determined according to Korean clothing image. Special qualities of design about Korean clothing image showed that there were lots of H silhouette in clothing form, related harmony in color harmony, somewhat rough and crude in texture and simple design in decoration. Top was more or less fit and bottom was found somewhat exaggerated tendency in fitness. 3) As a result of the visual evaluation about Korean clothing image, there were significant differences in all factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1582-1594
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the value of form in fashion design by developing a new perspective of design appreciation. By examining and modifying the theories of Wolfflin and Belong, this paper tries to of for a new perspective for analyzing the characteristics of form in fashion designers' works. The three new perspective, Flat & Rounded, Closed & Opened and Part & Whole, can be used to analyze the formative aesthetic character of Vionnet's and Dior's works. Ten of Vionnet's and eleven of Dior's representative works selected and applied Delong's visual priority diagram to analyze their character. Vionnet and Dior, emphasized form and construction in their design and applied geometric shapes in their works. The main differences between Vionnet and Dior is that Vionnet's work transforms from geometric shapes in 2-dimentional space to drapery shapes in 3-dimensional space, Dior's work displays geometric shapes in 3-dimensional space. Vionnet created new formative art through the relationship between the clothes and human body. Vionnet's work has distinctively different qualities depending on whether the space is 2-dimensional or 3-dimensional showing transposition of form. In 2-dimensional space, Vionnet's works consist of triangles, rectangles and circles which are 'flat' and 'closed' in quality. These transform to solid forms by draping bias fabrics, which have a 'rounded' and 'open' quality. Dior tended to show artificial form rather than the natural lines of the body which is very different with Vionnet. Dior created clothes by using solid geometric form such as spheres, prisms, cylinders, pyramids and cubes in 3-dimensional space, which were visualized through constructive technique such as dart manipulation, boning, gathering, tucking, pleating, shirring and layering. Dior's works have their own form which does not relate with body shape. So his Works have a 'rounded' and 'closed' quality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.346-359
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• 2012

This study provides basic guidelines to enrich lecture content and teaching methods for university lecturers about basic clothing construction (flat pattern making). The survey was conducted from October $13^{th}$ to December $20^{th}$ 2010 by mail and e-mail on 96 selected clothing departments in Korean universities to investigate the content, method and condition of the course of basic pattern making. A total of 63.3% of survey respondents were PhD graduates, 80 percent majored 'Apparel Science and Technology', average of total teaching experience was 12.84 years and 40 percent had studied abroad. The surveyed universities were 4 year universities (70%), 2-3 year tenure colleges (27%), and Cyber Universities (3%). The average number of students in a class was 28.08 and the lab space and equipment was evaluated positively only when the number of students was 20 or less. The type of measurements for basic pattern drafting were 'individual student's sizes' (62%), 'ready-made clothes sizing system' (25%), 'professor's experiential sizes' (5%), 'dress form sizes' (3%). In addition, the percentage of using 'ready-made clothes sizing system' increased 13% over the previous study (Lee, 2000). At a basic pattern drafting stage, 'the error of body measurements' in the case of using individual student's sizes, 'the poor results of fitting for students who deviate from standard body size' in the case of using ready-made clothes sizing system, 'the lack of education about fitting' in the case of using dress form sizes had been pointed out as shortcomings. A total of 66% of survey respondents carried out muslin fitting; however, a lack of students and teacher feedback about fitting & alteration of paper patterns remained a problem.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.910
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• pp.1329-1340
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to survey about the images of the sexy clothes that young women sympathize in modern society, that is, to make a research into the cognitive dimensions of 'Sexy image' and the constructive peculiarity of clothing. The researches into dimension of image by sexy clothing make that female mainly consist of in their twenties during May to October in 2003. The independent variables were: 1) The physical beauty dimension, 2) The negative estimate dimension, 3) The characteristic devaluation dimension,4) The elegance/ high grade dimension,5) The freshness/ beauty dimension,6) The sex appeal/ exposure dimension. Judging from each characteristic of costume in classified by articles, that is, colors, texture, shapes, details, and others-phenomenon of outerization of under clothing, print. We can know the clothes showing up our nice figures are the sleeveless design tied with strap, soft texture as silk chiffon and the colors that are not strong. And there were no embarrassed, ugly and pitiful clothing. Expressing sexy beauty by clothing is the result that the wearer produces intentionally by compounding design factors, it's the ideal when the observer's reaction and the wearer's intention correspond. Therefore, it will be helpful in expressing ideally if the subject, what kinds of sexy beauty the compounding design factors express, is studied carefully. Also it is expected to be used in grasping modem consumers' desires that want to look sexy, finding out how to express, dealing with the consumers' desires correctly, and the reference materials of the planning goods, sales promotion, and selecting of a medium of advertisement according to the consumers' desires.