• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1824-1835
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• 2010

This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1971-1980
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to explore the meaning and depth of traditional knitwears, and to develop knitwear designs by using Aran motif, one of major motifs of traditional knitwears and on the basis of the 'continuance' theory of Henri Bergson and Jill Deleuze. Connectivity, the sense of space and deconstructive fluidity-basic concepts of the continuance theory-are felt in such forms as pleats, origami, and air pumping systems, blob and twisting used in the modem fashion. The motif of Aran knitwear which has a long historical tradition can be reinterpreted in terms of those concepts of the continuance theory. In this study, we designed five pieces of knitwear while applying cable motif, an important motif of Aran knitwear, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of knit wears through reinterpretation of a traditional motif in terms of a modem philosophical thought.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.10
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• pp.1541-1551
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• 2009

This study gives guidelines to pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of jeans with the location of the waistline and the pants silhouette. For this study, 9 kinds of sample cloths (100% cotton denim) were designed considering the laying measurement of the jeans with the location of the waistline and the pants silhouette. The images of each sample were evaluated after the measurement of the completed samples. Clothing and textiles specialists used a semantic differential scale as the evaluation method of the images. For the statistical analysis of the data, one way Anova and Duncan test were adopted using the SPSS 12.0 program. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The visual image by the location of waistline and the change of the pants silhouette is composed of 3 factors (attraction, fashion and comfort factors) of which the attraction factor is the most important factor. 2. The visual image is positive when the location of the waistline is in the low waist position. It is attractive, fashionable, and comfortable. The visual image is negative when the location of the waistline is in the position of the natural waist. 3. The visual image is attractive when the pants silhouette is a boot-cut and fashionable when the pants silhouette are skinny. The straight-cut is comfortable but the visual image is negative. 4. There is no correlation between visual image by the location of the waistline and the change of the pants silhouette.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.911-917
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate muscle activity of the lower limbs when walking in jeans in order to obtain basic information for development of new jeans patterns with excellent movement adaptability. Using three types of jeans (basic, medium, and slim) with different ease on hip, knee circumference, and crotch length, and two different types of shoes, Electromyogram (EMG) of the lower limbs muscle was measured for four healthy subjects walking on treadmills and stairs. EMG of vastus lateralis, semitendinous, tibialis anterior and medial head of gastrocnemius muscles was measured. The muscle activity was assessed in RMS (Root Mean Square) value of the EMG. On the treadmill in sneakers, only the vastus lateralis muscle showed a significant difference in RMS value depending on patterns. Basic and medium jeans allowed higher muscle activity than trunks of slim jeans did. On the treadmill in high heels and slim jeans, the RMS values of all muscles were significantly smaller than in basic jeans, whereas no significant differences were shown while in trunks or medium jeans. On the stairs either in sneakers or in high heels, no significant differences were shown between all muscle activities for all types of jeans. On the treadmill, greater fatigue was induced in all muscles from walking in high heels than in sneakers for all jeans patterns. When walking on the stairs wearing either type of shoes, however, the effect of jeans pattern on muscle activities was different from muscle to muscle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.219-225
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to make an ideal dummy for adult Maltese with proper investigation of its character and direct measurement of dog body-shape. The results of the study are as follows; First, there were 6 factors to affect the characteristics of Maltese body in the analysis, which are size of body, leg shape, chest shape, leg thickness, body length, length between fore-legs. In the cluster analysis with the 6 factors there were two types of Maltese body. Type 1 has body characteristics with large body, thick leg, and small distance between front legs. Type 2 has average size of all factors including body size, leg thickness, and length between fore-legs. Second, type 2 was selected as a representative one to make a dummy reflected body shape of characteristics because it took 67.71% from entire considered factors and has average value in the measured size. The first dummy pattern was planned by copying the surface area of the representative body shape with the method of surgical tape. A dummy of single body with trunk and legs was made using 30's cotton cloth, polyester inside batting, compressed form PVC and metallic wire on the joint of trunk and legs to support dummy shape. The second pattern was made by correcting size difference of the pattern and adding the pattern of neck covering plate, metal magnetic button was inserted on the center of joint area of trunk and legs to make detachable legs for easy slip on and off the pet's wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.589-594
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for design and pattern development research in the modernization of Cheollik by comparing and analyzing the interrelationships between the components of the Cheollik. The 237 pieces of excavated costume Cheollik in the museums were surveyed. The size of the Cheollik components were examined by 100 year unit from 1400s to after 1800s. In the 1400s, the length of Cheollik was the shortest and the length of top was longer than the bottom. In the 1700s, the total length was the longest and the bottom was longer than the top. As the age increases, the total length and the bottom become longer and the length of the top becomes shorter. Poom and Gutseop were the largest in the 1400s and the smallest the after 1800s. As the age of the Poom and Gutseop decreased, the width of the Anseop increased. Gutseop was always present but Anseop was not always present in Cheollik components. As the ages passed, Jindong and Soogu became narrower and Baerae became wider. These change of Cheollik's sleeves form were affected by GongBok(so-called official wear) sleeves. By age, Cheollik did not show any big change in the basic shape, but the partial dimensions of the components showed changes. If the design and pattern research for modernization is done based on systematic establishment of pattern dimension of Cheollik, Cheollik dress combines practicality while preserving beauty and tradition at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2017

This study used data from a survey of adult Korean women in their twenties to learn their current practices for wearing and purchasing tight-fit jeans available on the market as well as perceptions regarding size measurements and satisfaction levels. We then determined product sizes and pattern measurements for the type of jeans worn. This study also analyzed discrepancies in product size measurements among brands to determine whether the measurements were generally suitable for average body shapes and measurements of women in their twenties. The study results were as follows. First, the survey asked women in their twenties about current practices in wearing jeans. Many respondents answered that their preferred fit is "a perfectly snug fit" and that the most common fit style of jeans was the skinny fit. Second, we selected a test pair of jeans with an identical fiber content from brands that women prefer to wear, according to the survey results. We researched the product measurements of the size respectively labeled 27 inches for each of the 8 brands' test jeans; consequently, the results showed that there were significant differences among the brands in the product measurements of each part of jeans. Third, we analyzed the pattern measurements of 8 selected brands for each area and identified pattern characteristics by brand.