• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.167-175
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to clarify the expansion of functions of clothes by analyzing the characteristics of transformation, and to forecast future trends in fashion through systematization of the aforementioned analyses. Analysis of 20th century Modernism and Post-Modernism in a sociocultural sense confirms that transformation in clothes was formed by environmental, functional, deconstructive, and expressive factors. In this sense, the formative factors mentioned above conceptually include nomadic characteristics, usefulness, irregularity, and expressiveness. The nomadic characteristics found in clothes transformation signify the change of clothes into environmental nomadic everyday implements, used as tools for the body. Usefulness of clothes means that it is worn for variability, multipurpose multi-functionality, and combined multiple use. Irregularity means the clothes can change indefinitely, according to random manipulation on the wearer's part. Last of all, expressiveness conveys the designer's internal sensitivity and imagination onto an external object through the induction of various expressive factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.737-744
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• 1999

Underwear made of plain and 1$\times$1 rib-knit cotton fabric were laundered to evaluate the change of the size and the tensile properties. For laundering pulsator and drum washers were used. After 30 washing cycles the amount of shrinkage and the extension were different with washer types. Underwear laundered by the drum type was shrunken in the neck line armhole line and hem line were extended and the bodice width and side length were shrunken,. Tensile strength of the knitted fabric was not decreased through repeated washings because the fabric density was increased. But it was confirmed by SEM that the surface of the fiber was damaged by washings.

• Environmental and Resource Economics Review
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.1-30
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• 2022

This study is to investigate consumers' acceptance and their willingness to pay for clothes made of materials with low microplastic emissions as an alternative to synthetic fibers made of plastics by applying the contingent valuation method. A nationwide web-based survey was conducted for 1,052 respondents proportional to region, age, and gender during February 2021. More than 75% of the sample expressed intentions to purchase microplastic emission-reducing clothing instead of synthetic fiber clothing, and more than 80% of them have stated their willingness to pay for additional prices. A variation of Heckman's sample selection model was adopted to estimate factors affecting respondents' intentions to pay for additional prices, in which the probit model of intentions to purchase the clothing with alternative materials was used as a sample selection equation. While respondents were sensitive to the amounts of price increases suggested in the CV scenario, they expressed high acceptance and preferences for eco-friendly materials regardless of the microplastic emission-reducing levels. Consumers in the circular economy were willing to pay for the range of 41,000 to 51,000 won for a pair of clothing made with microplastic emission-reducing materials. In addition, as the microplastic emission-reducing rate has increased from 50% to 80%, the willingness to pay estimates were also significantly increased, ranging from 41,000~50,500 to 42,000~51,700 won.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1619-1626
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• 2005

The durability of a stretch fabric is mainly related to the change in the dimension and mechanical properties of elastomeric fibers during wearing and washing. In this study, we examined the effects of washing temperature, presoaking time and the number of washing cycles on the change in length, tenacity, elongation at break, and permanent elongation after six repeated cycles of $100\%$ extension and relaxation of spandex yams with varying fineness and with a different rate of extension during heat-set. The spandex yarns continued to shrink as the wash temperature and the number of wash cycles increased. In addition, the finer spandex yams decreased in length more than the thicker yams. The increase in temperature and presoaking time tended to cause a slight decrease in the tenacity and elongation at break of the spandex yarns. Permanent elongation of the spandex yams also increased as the temperature, presoaking time and the number of washing cycles increased. Moreover, an extended presoaking time followed by washing at $40\%$ like repeated washing cycles showed the great increase in the permanent elongation of spandex yams. The thinner spandex yin had a better elasticity than the thicker one, since the former had a lower permanent elongation percentage than the latter. Based on the DSC thermograms, the melting points of the spandex yarns after washing were almost the same as those of the spandex yarns before washing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.135-138
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• 2003

오늘날의 섬유산업은 단순히 입는다는 기능적인 면에서 탈피하여 인간의 미와 감성을 추구하는 매체로써의 역할을 요구하고 있다. 따라서 다양한 직물을 선호하는 소비자들의 욕구를 충족시켜주기 위하여 원사 자체가 점점 다양화 되어가고 있으며, 특히 합성섬유의 발명에 의해서 의류용 소재로 많이 사용되고 있다. 섬유에 감성을 부여하기 위한 방법으로 여러 가지가 있지만 최근 일본, 이태리 등을 중심으로 활발히 시도되고 있는 복합연사기술의 개발에 많은 관심이 집중되고 있다.[7] (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1824-1835
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• 2010

This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

The aims of this research were to study on the relationship between the mechanical properties and the deformation behavior of weft-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure and knit density. Eighteen weft-knitted fabrics were produced with six different knit structures ($1{\times}1$ rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different knit densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties of these samples were measured using the KES-F system. The 2HBIW increased as knit density was raised. The increase was greater for the double knit fabrics in all samples. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock samples showed the lowest 2HG/G values. The double knits were smaller than those of single knits indicate a higher degree of surface smoothness. The ratio of compression energy to weight per unit area of the double knits had lower values than the single knits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.265-277
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to successfully reflect human body changes on the transformation of the virtual body within 3D virtual fitting spaces. For this purpose, existing problems of shape transformation of the virtual body were analyzed and regression equations which provides useful basic data for transformation of the virtual body that can be applied usefully to the 3D virtual fitting system was developed. Necessary data for the analyses were body measurement and 3D scan data of women with average physical form between the ages of 40 through 49. The reason that we used human body changes of the female subjects in their forties was based on the recognition that fundamental female body changes start to occur from age of forty. Body shapes were largely divided into 3 groups according to obesity which was found to be the biggest factor of shape change. Seven factors were extracted based on factor analysis of 47 body measurement categories and regression equations were created to extract specific measurements for each BMI group based on these seven factors. The major contribution of this paper can be summarized as follows. First, the regression equations to extract specific measurements based on the 7 representative variables remediated existing problem of virtual bodies as it increased the number of body shape transformation areas. Second, the regression equations helped to overcome the problem of current failing to reflecting changes in body cross-section shape based on simple girth measurements based on analysis of cross-section distances.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2015

Indeterminacy maintains that the simultaneous measurement of object location and speed is theoretically impossible. This study present indeterminacy as a theoretic tool to interpret a variety of expression characteristics that seem disorderly in recent fashion illustrations; in addition, it analyzes the characteristics and meaning of indeterminacy as expressed in fashion illustrations. This study reviews concepts and related theories on indeterminacy to examine characteristics of indeterminacy expressed in the arts and fashion; subsequently, indeterminacy characteristics found in fashion illustrations are analyzed. In expressing the fashion figure, indeterminacy finds expression in a distorted figure transformations that include a hybridized combination of heterogeneous forms that dismantle and reconstruct the human body. The hybridized body of combined machines, animals and plants indicates an indeterminate body endlessly transforming itself. Indeterminate space expression finds expression in space expression by projection with the overlapping and juxtaposition of irrelevant constituent elements as well as a space expression from the insertion of unexpected images. An unclarified inconclusive open space provides space with fluidity, causes space expansion and conveys inconclusive meaning. Indeterminate expressions found in fashion illustrations reveal the ambiguity and complexity of a post-modern society with polysemous aesthetic values and the expanded visual concepts of fashion illustrations.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.387-392
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• 1999

The effects of the ratio of warp diameter to filling diameter (${\beta}$-ratio) and warp thread crash on the crimp factor and the yarn curvature were studied theoretically in this paper. The models of 2/2 twill fabric derived square cloth and sinusoidal curved cloth were used for the theoretical analysis. The crimp factors (C) for the models were given theoretically as follows; (1) Derived square cloth(general equation for b) $$C=\frac{(1+{\beta})({\theta}-sin{\theta})}{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}+{\alpha}}$$ (2) Sihusoidal curved cloth $$C=\frac{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}\[1+\{\frac{{\pi}(1-cos{\theta})}{4sin{\theta}}\}^2\]+{\alpha}}{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}+{\alpha}}-1$$ The curvatures(${\kappa}$) for the models were given theoretically as follows; (1) Derived square cloth $${\kappa}=\frac{2}{d_w+d_f}$$ (2) Sinusoidal curved cloth $${\kappa}=\|{^{\;\;\prime\prime} \atop r}(s)\| \\ where \;s=\frac{p^'}{{\pi}}\(u+\frac{k^2u}{4}+\frac{k^2}{8}sin2u\)$$.