• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.286-304
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• 2017

In this study, we proposed a new-type of circular perforated caisson breakwater consisting of a bundle of latticed blocks that can be applied to a small port such as a fishing port, and numerically investigated the hydraulic characteristics of the breakwater. The numerical method used in this study is OLAFOAM which newly added wave generation module, porous media analysis module and reflected wave control module based on OpenFOAM that is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. To investigate the applicability of OLAFOAM, the variations of wave pressure acting on the three-dimensional slit caisson were compared to the previous experimental results under the regular wave conditions, and then the performance for irregular waves was examined from the reproducibility of the target irregular waves and frequency spectrum analysis. As a result, a series of numerical simulations for the new-type of circular perforated caisson breakwaters, which is similar to slit caisson breakwater, was carried out under the irregular wave actions. The hydraulic characteristics of the breakwater such as wave overtopping, reflection, and wave pressure distribution were carefully investigated respect to the significant wave height and period, the wave chamber width, and the interconnectivity between them. The numerical results revealed that the wave pressure acting on the new-type of circular perforated caisson breakwaters was considerably smaller than the result of the impermeable vertical wall computed by the Goda equation. Also, the reflection of the new-type caisson breakwater was similar to the variation range of the reflection coefficient of the existing slit caisson breakwater.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

When we design coastal and harbol facilities deepwater design wave and wind speed are the important design parameters. Especially, the analysis of these informations is a vital step for the point of disaster prevention. In this study, we made and an extreme value analysis using a series of deep water significant wave data arranged in the 16 direction and supplied by KORDI real-time wave information system ,and the wind data gained from Wan-Do whether Station 1978-2003. The probability distributions considered in this characteristic analysis were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-Pearson Type III, the Normal, the Lognormal, and the Gamma distribution. The parameter for each distribution was estimated by three methods, i.e. the method of moments, the maximum likelihood, and the method of probability weight moments. Furthermore, probability distributions for the extreme data had been selected by using Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov test within significant level of 5%, i,e. 95% reliance level. From this study we found that Gumbel distribution is the most proper model for the deep water design wave height off the southwest coast of Korea. However the result shows that the proper distribution made for the selected site is varied in each extreme data set.

• The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
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• v.28 no.10
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• pp.788-793
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• 2017

This paper presents the verification of accuracies of theoretical models for calculating the microwave reflections from rough sea surfaces. First of all, the Pierson-Moskowitz ocean spectrum was used to generate the rough sea surfaces. Then the relationship between the significant wave heights, root-mean-square(RMS) heights and wind speed was derived by estimating the significant wave heights and RMS heights of the generated sea surfaces according to various wind speeds, and compared the derived relationship with other measurement data sets. The reflection coefficients of the sea surfaces were calculated by using a numerical method(the moment method). Then, the numerical results were compared with Ament model, PO(Physical Optics) model, GO(Geometrical Optics) model and B-M(Brown-Miller) model for various roughness conditions(wind speed) and incidence angles. It was found that the Ament model is not accurate except for a very low roughness conditions($kh_{rms}$<0.4, k is wavenumber and $h_{rms}$ is RMS height). It was also found that at incidence angles lower than $70^{\circ}$, the PO and the GO models agree well with the numerical results, while the B-M model agrees well with the numerical analysis results at incidence angles higher than $80^{\circ}$ for very rough sea surfaces with $kh_{rms}$>10.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.266-274
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• 2022

In this study, a smoothing method was applied to improve the accuracy of peak wave period estimation using the water surface elevation observed from the Oceanographic and Meteorological Observation Tower located on the west coast of the Korean Peninsula. Validation of the application of the smoothing method was per- formed using variance of the surface elevation and total amount wave energy, and then the effect on the application of smoothing was analyzed. As a result of the analysis, the correlation coefficient between variance of the surface elevation and total amount wave energy was 0.9994, confirming that there was no problem in applying the method. Thereafter, as a result of reviewing the effect of smoothing, it was found to be reduced by about 4 times compared to the confidence interval of the existing estimated spectrum, confirming that the accuracy of the estimated peak wave period was improved. It was found that there was a statistically significant difference in proba- bility density between 4 and 6 seconds due to the smoothing application. In addition, for optimal smoothing, the appropriate number of smoothings according to the significant wave height range was calculated using a statistical technique, and the number of smoothings was found to increase due to the unstable spectral shape as the significant wave height decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.474-482
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formation and development processes of beach resort by fabric construction in a island environment. The results are as follows. (1) The research area(Tong-ri beach, Bokil-myon, Chollanam-do)has been transformed to belch by sedimentary environmental change since latter half of 1800's. (2) The mean slope of beach face is 0.96°, and the difference of attitude between beach and mud flat face is 75cm. (3) The mean particle size of beach surface sediment is 3.53$\Phi$. This value is very finer than that of any other beach in Korea peninsula. But its value is coarser than that of mud flat surface sediment. (4) The particle size distribution of core sediment is become changed to fine particle in 70cm depth. This value is corresponded to difference of altitude between beach face and mud flat face. (5) The analysis of aerial photographs after 1970 indicates that sedimentation process was not brisked since 1970's. Consequently, the research ares has been developed by sedimentary environmental change for sea-level rise effect and wave height energy rise effect.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.355-365
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• 1994

An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.223-233
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• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.111-118
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• 2004

An ocean buoy was deployed 10 km off Donghae city, Korea at a depth of 130 m to measure meteorological (air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, wind gust, wind direction, relative humidity) and oceanographic data (water properties and currents in the whole column) in real-time. The buoy recorded a maximum wind gust of 25 m/s (10 minutes' average speed of 20 m/s) and a minimum air pressure of 980 hPa when the eye of typhoon Maemi passed by near the Uljin city, Korea at 03:00 on 13 September 2003. The wave height reached maximum of 9 m with the significant wave height of 4 m at 04:00 (1 hour after the passage of Maemi). The currents measured near the surface reached up to about 100 cm/s at 13:00 (10 hours after the passage of Maemi). The mixed layer (high temperature and low salinity) thickness, which was accompanied by strong southward current, gradually increased from 20 m to 40 m during the 10 hours. A simple two layer model for the response to an impulsive alongshore wind over an uniformly sloping bottom developed by Csanady (1984) showed reasonable estimates of alongshore and offshore currents and interface displacement for the condition of typhoon Maemi at the buoy position (x=8.15 km) during the 10 hours.

• The Korean Journal of Malacology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.323-330
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• 2011

We have developed a polyculture container which is preferable for rearing of abalones and sea cucumbers in East Sea. To test the rearing capacity of the polyculture container, 50, 75 and 100 sea cucumbers ranging from the body length of 7-9 cm were cultured in three containers including 500 abalones with the shell length of about 5 cm, respectively. It was revealed that preferable density for sea cucumbers was 52-72 individuals in the polyculture container. Glutamate oxaloacetate transaminase and glutamate pyruvate transaminase were analyzed with Reflotron kit to investigate the health degree of abalones in two polyculture containers including 300 and 500 abalones with the shell length of about 5 cm. Glutamate oxaloacetate transaminase has been an important tool to know myocardial infarction, disease of liver, and destruction of muscle. Next experiment was conducted to determine the effects on growth of abalones and sea cucumbers in polyculture container. Experimental findings, RNA/DHA ratio, DNA and RNA contents (ug/mg) were not significantly different among all groups. The results imply that the method of polyculture can be rearing with sea cucumber without growth retardation of abalone. Production ability between polyculture container and the container used in south sea were carried out using suspended culture method during 8months. It was revealed that abalones and sea cucumbers are faster growing in polyculture container than in container used in south sea. Therefore, polyculture container is considered more appropriate for the abalones and sea cucumbers culture in East Sea.

• Korean Journal of Ecology and Environment
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.328-336
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• 2014

Nakdan weir, which is located in the second weir among the 8 weirs of Nakdong River, had been constructed from Nov. 2009 to Nov. 2011. To analyze the effect of Nakdan weir construction on benthic macroinvertebrates, we studied 2 sites around Nakdan weir (upstream and downstream) from 2007 to 2014. The average numbers of species and individuals were decreased after the construction (in 2012~2014, 51 species $895inds.\;m^{-2}$) than before construction (in 2007~2009, 25 species $84inds.\;m^{-2}$), especially in upstream site of Nakdan weir. After the construction, especially in 2012, dominance indices (DI) were increased by the decline of some specific taxon population, such as Ephemeroptera and Trichoptera, etc. After construction, individual ratios of GC (Gathering Collectors) and P (Predator) of FFGs (Functional feeding groups) and BU (Burrowers) of HOGs (Habitat orientation groups) were higher than before construction. So the results of this study indicate that the changes by a weir construction, such as the decline of shallow depth area, reduced velocity of water flow and increased ratio of sand bed, etc., can affect the benthic macroinvertebrate communities variously.