• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권3호
• /
• pp.198-204
• /
• 2000

This study aimed to analyze the characteristics of domestic textile designs for miss and madam apparel and to find out the trend sensibility felt by young female judge according to the product year and apparel target age. Textile designs of 170 pictures of 1999 and 1994-1995 were collected at 4 shopping malls and from consumers, and results are as follows; As the sources of textile design were 'nature', 'imagination', and 'combination' used in the order of frequence, but the sources appeared more diverse in 1999 than in 1994-1995. The interpretation techniques expressed most often were 'stylized', 'geometry', and the mast frequent arrangements were 'all over', and the second was '4-way' in 19941995, '2-way' in 1999, that is, the arrangement were different according to product year. The trend sensibility were varying to the target age and product year.1999 apparel products were felt more 'sophisticated', 'contemporary', and 'sporty' if they were the textile designs for miss, while 1994-1995 products were more 'sophisticated', 'contemparary', and 'sporty' if for madam.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.117-130
• /
• 2010

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of contrast color coordination through the analysis of modern woman fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections' from '04 SS to '09/'10 AW. Data collection of 122 was done through review of '$pr{\hat{e}}t$-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and qualitative interpretation of contrast color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were as follows; (1) The combined color type of 'red+blue' and 'yellow+blue' were the most frequently appeared in the same ratio, and followed by 'green+violet', 'red+yellow', 'green+orange', and 'orange+violet'. The contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity, and the type of tone harmony used differently according to the type of contrasting color combination. (2) The general characteristics of contrasting color harmony were as follows,; Some contrasting colors looked harmonious when used light colors and the contrast between light and dull colors which made the hues even more harmonious. Also combinations of dull colors which work well with other dull colors or vivid colors. Light & vivid color or light & dark color, however, often showed too much contrast and using two contrasting vivid colors presented awkward and restless look. When used one vivid color and one dark color, a little easier to looked at, but still not particularly elegance or effectively harmonious. (3) The types of contrasting color harmony showed some differences between seasons. Contrasting color harmony showed more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.53-62
• /
• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제9권4호
• /
• pp.377-383
• /
• 2006

본 연구는 섬유 소재에 IT기술을 적용하는 디지털 의류 제품 중 하나로 여성 재킷에 MP3기능을 내장시켜 상용화 할 수 있는 디자인 모형을 개발하는 것이다. 이를 위하여 선행 연구 고찰 및 5가지 MP3 기능 스마트 의류 초기 모형의 착의 평가 및 사용성 평가 결과를 반영하여, MP3 입력장치 및 모듈의 위치, 이어폰선과 신호선의 경로 등을 최적화하고 직물 기반의 신호선과 입력 장치를 이용함으로써 사용자 중심의 인터페이스와 사용성 및 동적 착용성을 갖춘 MP3 기능 스마트 재킷의 상용화 모형을 개발하였다. 이는 10대 후반부터 20대 초반까지의 여성복 시장을 겨냥한 것으로 최근의 패션 트렌드와 소비자의 감성적 만족도 그리고 디지털 의류 제품으로서의 가치를 고려해 볼 때 상품적 효용이 매우 높을 것으로 예측된다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제19권1호
• /
• pp.41-53
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this paper was to figure out the status quo of development of textiles in fashion industry by analyzing through in-depth interview with domestic women's wear converters on the process of textile planning. Professionals in top3 domestic women's wear converters were selected and interviewed in-depth on actual work process of textile development. The result of the research is as follows. First, the interviewed converters were having transactions with entire domestic target market of women's clothing and also exporting to China. Second, production of textile was mostly domestic, with some from China. Third, the number of textile development was 20 - 50 items per season accordingly to size of converter, and the number was larger if taking into account the sourcing development, the special finished fabric development and the print design development. Fourth, for methods to gather information, converters got ideas through overseas exhibitions, overseas color swatch books, fashion-related web sites and market research. Fifth, when setting up direction of textiles, it was investigated that they had motif from in-trend material or on previous season's best-selling material. Sixth, textile planning map did not start from early in season but prefers in-progress board map. Seventh, ways for many method types for textile planning were found depending on sales type of converter and textile production price.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.85-98
• /
• 2009

Advance development of the internet has brought significant changes to the distribution structure of the fashion industry, resulting in decreased sales in Road shops and sudden growth of online fashion specialty shopping malls. As detailed analysis on internet fashion shopping malls is necessary in order to make a future projection on changes in the fashion industry, this thesis aims to study the color, fabric / pattern, silhouette, item / detail, image, etc of 2008 S/S apparel fashion style sold in the top ten shopping malls, selected in terms of sales volume and awareness. The results were further analyzed to characterize each individual shopping malls, upon which the design was compared with the five main trends for the season provided by three fashion research agencies in order to study the level of trend acceptance. Studies showed that 'Romantic Sake' trend was most widely accepted, followed by 'Eco Nature' which most reflected the characteristics of Spring. 'Modern Ethenic' trend was most aggressively accepted at more upscale shopping malls targeting older demographic, while " Play Urban' was highly accepted by shopping malls specializing in young casual. Due to the disadvantage of not being able to try on the items before purchase, styles following the 'City Luxe' trend featuring fitted suits showed the lowest trend acceptance. Amongst the design elements, color was most widely accepted.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2001년도 춘계학술대회
• /
• pp.41-41
• /
• 2001

본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.91-101
• /
• 2010

This paper has the purpose of suggesting a development-method on the fashion products that would secure the competitiveness in the global markets through creating supersensitive practical products on the basis of developing originative fashion-goods being made of jacquard that is fine quality of couture. This paper has collected data through the cases of the developed nations in fashion, precedent studies and all the related literature on the subject. The results of this researching are as following: The first, it is expected that the necessity of developing new fashion products would be appealed toward the prestige group of consumers who are seeking for the fine quality and super-sensitivity in female fashion in Korea, and it is the current situation that the products made of jacquard are gradually expanding not only in the area of apparel, fashion goods and interior but also another areas. The current situation of the global market suggests the necessary strategy of survival, that is, the development of supersensitive materials and creative products which would be able to keep the high quality and lower the selling price through cost reduction. The second, the suggestion of the direction in developing the products of the female fashion made of jacquard has two points - the development of the texture that would realize a unique form and the development of the material that would be able to realize planar pattern and three dimensional pattern which are woven with thin and light materials with various solidity and delicacy through various techniques of mixing and three dimensional expression. The third, the expected ripple effect and utilization generated from the development of fashion products are as followings: As material characteristics of jacquard, It needs the specialization of various techniques and specialized production system in using jacquard, and the specialized technique and system would make it possible to produce not only the higher value-added products through expressing affluent colors and delicate design but also competitive products through cutting the process and cost, eventually, it would lead to the expansion of the jacquard market of super-sensitive prestige. Therefore, it is remarkable that various development of products toward the global market and the prestige female fashion market can suggest the vision that make the national fashion industry develop into the higher value-added knowledge industry integrating technology and culture.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.57-73
• /
• 2012

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of pleats design through the analysis of modern female fashion as they appear in the 'Collections' from '09 A/W to '12 S/S. Data collection of 1027 was done through the review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three cities; Milan, New York, Paris. Along with the qualitative interpretation of pleats design, statistical analysis of frequency and ${\chi}^2$-test were completed for data analysis. The main findings were as follows; 1. The five types of pleats design were founded in the order of accordion, knife, box, inverted, and sunburst pleats. The frequency and ratio of pleats design occurency showed significant difference between collections. 2. There were significant difference between the types of pleats and their line characteristics of thickness, continuity, length, direction. = Thin fabrics with delicate fine folds were mainly appeared in accordion and sunburst pleats. On the other hand, midium thickness fabrics were used for knife, box & inverted pleats, however, the different images were projected according to the width and the number of folds, characteristics of fabrics and textures. = In all the type of pleats but sunburst, continuity line was appeared the most. The discontinuous lines were appeared the most in the layered types and, sometimes, at some construction lines to add some decorative details or design variations. = The long line were the most frequently appeared in long one-pieces or long skirts of knife, accordion, sunburst pleats. While, the shorter lines showed the most frequently in box and inverted pleats, which mainly used for skirts or the lower part of one-piece. = For the line directions, the vertical lines were the most frequently appeared, and followed by mixed and diagonal line. In mixed or diagonal lines, same type of pleat was repeated in one design. For diagonal lines, one direction was mainly used, however, the symmetrical arrangements or repeated diagonal pleats in various directions also used. In mixed lines, the type of one or two diagonal and one vertical line was the most frequently appeared.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권6호
• /
• pp.879-891
• /
• 2007

빠른 유행변화와 긴 제조과정으로 인하여 패션업계에서 유행예측은 매우 중요한 과업이며,성공의 열쇠가 된다. 따라서 예측된 스타일이 소비자들에게 수용되어 유행되는 과정은 학문적으로나 산업적으로 매우 중요한 주제이다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션에서 예측된 유행스타일들이 한국시장에서 어떻게 수용되는지를 알아보고자 여성복 해외 콜렉션 자료와 서울의 스트리트패션 자료를 02 s/s 시즌부터 05 s/s 시즌까지 7시즌에 걸쳐 비교하였다. 해외 콜렉션 자료는 전문 패션잡지인 Fashion Show에서 수집하였으며, 스트리트 패션자료는 서울패션디자인센터의 자료를 사용하였다. 그 결과 우리나라는 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 전반적인 트렌드를 잘 수용하고 있으며 특히 이 기간 동안은 스포티 스타일과 페미닌 스타일이 크게 유행하였던 것으로 나타났다. 그러나 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 스타일이 그대로 수용되기보다는 변형되거나, 일부만이 수용되는 경우가 더 많았으며 이것은 한국사회의 특성과 대량생산에 기인한 것으로 사료된다. 또한 해외 콜렉션에서 제시된 스타일들 중 한국에서는 거의 수용되지 않은 경우도 있었으며, 한편 한국에서만 나타난 스타일과 아이템들도 있었다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션 자료를 주 정보원으로 사용하는 국내 의류업체들의 상품기획에 좋은 가이드라인을 제공하고 있으며, 또한 한국 패션시장의 특성을 이해하는데 도움이 되는 실증적인 연구로 의의가 있다.