• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.485-493
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• 1992

Three kinds of tight skirts, slim type, straight type, and semi-tight type were investigated to obtain necessary information about the size of the back slit. Fourteen college students put on these experimental clothes and walked on the flat floor, going up and down the stairs. The dimensions of the back slit were measured by width and length. The stride length was taken from the record of footprints of walking. The correlation between the body measurement, stride length and the size of the back slit was studied. As a result of this experiment, the findings are as follows: 1. The size of the back slits differed from each skirt type at the level of p<0.001. In the case of walking on the floor, the average dimension of the back slit was 14.0 cm long 5.0 cm wide for the slim type,9.5 cm long 2.8 cm wide for the straight type and 2.1 cm long 0.5 cm wide for the semi-tight type. 2. In the case of walking on the stairways, the average dimension of the back slit was 16.0 cm long 5.8 cm wide for the slim type, 12.4 cm long 3.9 cm wide for the straight type and 3.1 cm long 1.1 cm wide for the semi-tight type. 3. The correlation between the height (stature, waist height, knee height) and the size of back slit was 0.3 to 0.6. The correlation between the girth (waist, hip) and the size of back slit was 0.3 to -0.5. 4. The correlation between the stride length and the size of back slit was 0.76 for the slim skirt, 0.56 for the straight skirt, 0.28 for the semitight skirt.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.756-764
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze of size and patterns of ready to wear basic for middle age women. For this purpose, I select 9 brands and analyze the basic skirts size system marketed in 2002 spring in Korea. To study the actual size system, I have compared size labeling, which I researched, with Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. And I also have compared body measurement with the product size. To study the pattern, I have classified the composition of the skirt into 24 items. The different result shows between this study and Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. The waist circumference is smaller than it should be, and the hip circumference is larger than it should be. As I have examined the body measurement and the product size, variability of the waist circumference depends on the location of the waistline. For the hip circumference, I have found that both the body measurement and the product size are same, or the product size is smaller than the body measurement. Both cases have been found to be over 67%. I have classified the analysis of the pattern into four components; circumference, relevance to waist line, dart, and length. For the waist circumference, the same size of the front and the back is 44.4%, and making the front larger is 44.4% also. In the hip circumference, the identical size of the front and the back is 66.7% and the larger size of back is 22.2%. Regarding darts placement, it is moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.3~3.2 cm, the length of darts is 7.2~12.7 cm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.459-469
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.539-549
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to find out the moving fitness and slit length of tight skirt in relation to its length & silhouette. Five kinds of length, micro mini, mini, natural line, medi and maxi, and two kinds of siihuette, slim & straight-a total of ten tight skirts-were investigated. Ten college students were chosen for this experiment. The moving fitness was tested by measuring the step length, step width and step angle in the case of walking on the flat and going up the stairway & bus stair. The slit length was tested by measuring the back slit length needed in the case of going up stairway & bus stair. Data were analyzed with use of SAS pakage. The statistics were based on average, standard diviation, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and multiple regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There was significant difference in the moving fitness according to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The moving fitness of slim type was lower than that of straight type and the longer the skirt length was, the lower the moving fitness was. The significance appeared particularly in the case of going up the bus stair. 2. There was significant difference in the skirt length obove slit accorting to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The skirt length obove slit of slim type was shorter than that of straight type. The longer skirt length was, the longer it was from micro mini to natural line, that of medi skirt was shorter or a little longer than that of natural line skirt and there was little change from medi skirt to maxi skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.57-67
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• 1984

The purpose of this study is to develop a devided skist Pattern drafting method for Korean Women between the ages of 18$\~$24 on the basis of their physical characteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procednras are as follows : 1, A new devided skirt pattern drafting method is developed based on the results of draping to find the essential measuring items for devided skirt construction, 27 items of KAIST measurement data analysis to establish representative and independent items and fitting tests. 2. To establish fittness and comfort in the new pattern comparing it with in a conventional one, asensory evaluation is applied. According to the statistical analysis of the results of the sensory evaluation, the findings are as followings ; 1. Composite reliability coefficient is 0.68. 2. Qut of 30 items, 25 items for fittness show significant differences (pp$\leqq$0.05, p$\leqq$0.01, P$\leqq$0.001) between the two, with the new pattern better fitted, presenting a pleasing appearance in hormony with the figure and contributing to the wearer's sense of wellbeing. 3. Hip crotch and hem dimensions for comfort show significant differences (p$\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern more comfortable, but no significant difference is showed between the two in activity variable. 4. The new pattern drafting method is shown in figuke 4.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was (1) to classify the lower body of young women, (2) to investigate the three-dimensional characteristics of each lower body type. The subjects for direct anthrophometric measurements were 330 female college students aged from 18 to 25. Thirty variables(16 directly obtained from the anthropometric data and 14 indices) were used for lower body classification. The data were statintically analyzed by the principal factor analysis and the cluster analysis. Factors extracted were used as variables for the cluster analysis. To detect three-dimensional characteristics of each lower body type, horizontally sectioned overlap maps were obtained by the moire photography. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The lower body of Korean young women into five groups according to their lower body shapes. 1) Group 1(18.9% of the total) is characterized by a shorter and thinner lower body, no dropped hip with a close size between hip and waist. 2) Group 2(21.3% of the total) is characterized by longer lower body and average dropped hip with the most differences between hip and waist size. 3) Group 3(18.6% of the total) is characterized by their average hip and waist sizes but with the most dropped hip. 4) Group 4(22.9% of the total) is characterized by their comparatively fat lower body, almost average dropped hip and more differences between hip and waist size. 5) Group 5(19.2% of total) is characterized by the fattest and relatively longer lower body, least dropped hip with less differences between hip and waist sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.15-32
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to detect the effect of the lower body type on the shape of flare skirts. The subjects for the wearing test were 50 female students, who were controlled in their hip and waist shapes. The skirts used for wearing test were six types(three flar angles $\times$ two fabric types). The effect of lower body type on the shape of flare skirts was determind by the hemline trace method and the silhouette photography. The data were then analyzed by the repeated measures of analysis of variance and the SNK multiple range test. The results obtained from this study were as follows : 1) When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle and better drapable fabric was worn, the numeric of the nodes increased as the drop value(hip - waist) increased. When a flare skirt made with smaller flare angle was worn, the width of horizontal sectio of hemline increased as the drop value increased. The hemline uneveness decreased on the sides and back as the drop value increased. When a flare skirt made with worse drapable fabric was worn, the sides angle of the flarskirt increased as the drop value increased. 2) When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle was worn, the numeric of nodes increased as the ratio of dropped hip increased. The wave-height increased and the back variation ratio of wave-height was higher than the front variation ratio of wave-height as the ratio of dropped hip increased. The hemiline uneveness decreased on the back as the ratio of dropped hip increased. When a flare skirt made with larger flare angle was worn, the sides angle of the flare skirt increased as the ratio of dropped hip increased.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.89-98
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• 2020

This study applied the Q methodology to analyze the subjective evaluation and recognition patterns of elderly women's clothing preferences. For the type 1, knitted materials and natural materials were preferred, and pastel colors were preferred. The type 2 preferred pants that cover the body shape, look young, and have good simple activity. The type 3 was a type in which the waist was treated with a rubber band, the clothes were comfortable to wear and the loose style was preferred. The type 4 was simple and prefers a style with a raised neck and no fasteners, and a clothes that was comfortable to wear. Type 5 was a type that prefers a style that looks important and colorful and youthful in design or color. In order to develop ZIGTECHnology apparel for older women, it is necessary to develop a design that can look aesthetically beautiful while covering the body shapes such as bending of the back and bending of the waist by reflecting the preferences of the older women. It is considered that it is necessary to develop clothing that takes into consideration movement functionality without obstacles to movements in consideration of changes in behavior and movement of hands.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.22-31
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• 1996

An efficient calculation method of pressure acting on a bluff body is developed. The method is applied to assess the containment capability of an oil fence, considering skirt deformation in current. The pressure on the frontal side of the oil fence is determined by analyzing the potential flow, substituting the wake region as a rigid body which has its boundary at the closed separation streamlines. The pressure at the downstream side of the fence, the so called base pressure, is obtained from the existing experimental results. To verify the calculation method, pressure drag of some bluff bodies in an infinite-fluid medium is calculated, which shows good agreement with the experimental results. The deformed shape of the oil fence is obtained by solving, iteratively, the coupled equations governing the flow field and the deformation of the oil fence, respectively. The deformed shape and the decrease of draft of oil fences with different ballast mass in various current conditions are investigated.