• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1535-1545
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• 2005

The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric($50\%\;and\; 70\%$ in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks ($0\%$ ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from $12\%\;to\;18\%$ tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
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• 2021.07a
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• pp.295-296
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• 2021

본 연구는 신한복 저고리에 대한 선호도 조사를 통해 추출된 신한복 저고리 디자인을 기본으로 하여 신한복 저고리 원형을 개발하고자 한다. 이를 통해 신한복 저고리 생산에 기본이 되는 패턴에 관한 정보를 제공하고자 한다. 연구에 사용된 프로그램은 CLO 3D와 DC Suite 5.1 프로그램이며, 분석에는 SPSS 26.0을 활용하였다. 1차 외관평가를 통해 낮게 평가된 부분을 수정하여 어깨폭, 소매길이, 소매통, 앞단의 겹침 분량에 대한 수정이 이루어졌다. 2차 외관평가결과 저고리길이, 소매길이, 밑단둘레에 대한 수정이 요구되었다. 최종 신한복 저고리 패턴은 앞면, 뒷면, 옆면의 모든 항목에서 4.60이상으로 높은 평가를 받았다. 개발된 신한복 저고리 패턴은 20대 전반 여성의 체형에 맞추어져 있고 소재에 대한 고려 없이 3D 시뮬레이션 상에서의 일반적인 Physical parameter값에 맞추어 제작되었다. 따라서 향후 발전된 연구에서는 소재별, 저고리의 길이별, 연령별 신한복 저고리 패턴에 대한 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.1-9
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• 1989

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.113-125
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop a new Hanbok Jeogori prototype based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Jeogori. This study was conducted based on K-patterns selected as excellent patterns in prior research and utilized the SPSS 27.0 program for analysis of appearance evaluation. As a result of the first appearance evaluation and garment pressure evaluation, the shoulder area was required to be modified, so the shoulder end point was moved within 1cm to rearrange the armhole line. Modification of sleeve length and circumference was also required, reducing sleeve length by 1.5cm and sleeve circumference by 0.5cm at both ends. As a result of the second evaluation, the length of Jeogori, hem circumference, and sleeve length were required, reducing the length of the front and back Jeogori by 1 cm and reducing the sleeve length by 1cm. The hem circumference was reduced by 0.2cm each in the princess line, which was highly evaluated in the final evaluation. In future research, it is thought that pattern studies by material, length, and age should be conducted and corrections should be derived through actual wear experiments.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.39-39
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• 1998

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.170-185
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• 2013

The suitability of the pattern manufactured with the development figure was considered by reviewing the development conditions that can be directly connected to the basic pattern in the human body surface development figure with the cast bandage method. The method to prepare the sleeve basic pattern was based on the cylindrical surface development method, and the sleeve basic pattern covering the 45 and 90 degrees momentum of the arm-movement was made by using the cast-type body surface development figure prepared with the horizontal line of the sleeve hem placed horizontally in the plan and by combining the cast-type body surface development figure in the standing position with the figure in the moving position. The test clothing was prepared with the sleeve pattern adding the bodice pattern in the standing position and the momentum and was worn on the FRP replica. The relationship theory of the body surface development figure with the pattern was derived by reviewing the suitability from the wearing state. The sleeve-cap height of the sleeve basic pattern resulted in about 80% in the standing position when the needs for a physical activity are 45 degrees and the about 50% when the needs for a physical activity are 90 degrees. The additional size of the diagonal length of the sleeve-cap could be set as "0" if the sleeve-cap height is low by 50% and as 50% of the additional size in the standing position if the sleeve-cap height is 80%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.219-228
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• 2003

The purpose of this study were to examine the characteristics of arm types proposed in the previous study and to present sleeve patterns according size and shape of 4 arm types. 31 direct and indirect items were measured. The subjects for this study were 132 females of twenties. The results were as follows. 1. All of the direct measurements showed significant difference by the arm types. especially at the front armhole part. Such a.: the items of arm gradients, armhole sizes belong to the indirect measurements made clear difference also. 2. By the discriminant analysis, 9 items including underarm length, front armhole girth, upper arm girth, degree of elbow point-wrist point discriminated arm type by the hit ratio of 90.4% Item related to shape of arm rather than size made a sharp distinction. 3. Through the examination of existing patterns and wearing tests on the subjects among 4 groups, sleeve patterns classified by the arm type were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1181-1189
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• 2009

This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan's multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.205-210
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to propose grading increments chart for women's bodice sloper in their 20s in order to increase consumer satisfaction with apparel products. The selected bodice sloper is a compromise between the German Müller bodice sloper and the Japanese Munhwa bodice sloper. Based on National Standards Position Survey data, the main dimension average for women in their 20s was set. The grading increments was set at the grading deviation application area in bodyboard and sleeve. Thereafter grading was done and the suitability of the graded pattern was checked.