• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.401-412
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• 2008

Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.223-234
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• 1998

Recently, the interests of the construction of the permeable submerged breakwaters have been increased to preserve and to improve the coastal environment, and to control the incident waves and littoral transport. It is very important to predict the wave transformation precisely over the permeable submerged breakwaters. This study discusses nonlinear wave transformation and characteristics by using BEM based on the frequency domain method of the 3rd-order Stokes waves. The Dupuit-Forchheimer formula is applied to the analysis of the fluid resistance of rubble stones, and the equation about equivalent linear frictional coefficient is newly modified based on the Lorentz's condition for the equivalent work. The numerical results are compared with the experimental ones for verification. These two results give a close agreement each other. It is confirmed that the present method of the 3rd-order Stokes waves estimates more precisely than that of the 2nd-order Stokes waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.121-127
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• 2008

Numerical experiments with weakly nonlinear MIKE21 BW module and fully nonlinear FUNWAVE model are performed to identify the nonlinear characteristics of Boussinesq models with varying nonlinearity. Generation of waves with varying amplitudes, nonlinear shoaling and wave propagation over submerged bar experiments showed the importance of nonlinear model in shallow water where nonlinearity becomes prominent. Fully nonlinear model showed the nonsymmetrical wave form more clearly and gave larger shoaling coefficients than those of weakly nonlinear model.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1992.07a
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• pp.397-407
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• 1992

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.53-57
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• 2003

불규칙파를 사용하여 설계 자료로 이용하기 위해서는 설계해역에서 불규칙파의 파랑변형을 예측할 수 있는 수치모형의 개발이 선행되어야 한다. 비선형 불규칙파의 거동을 해석할 수 있는 Boussinesq 방정식은 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h($\alpha$는 수면의 진폭, h는 수심임)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh(k는 파수임)를 분산성의 매개변수로 하여 섭동법을 사용하여 유도된다. Boussinesq 식은 수심이 일정한 경우에 Boussinesq(1872)가 비선형 항을 O($\alpha$/h,(kh)$^2$)까지 포함하여 처음으로 개발하였고 수심의 변화가 완만한 경우에 Peregrine(1967)이 개발하였다. (중략)

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1993

Nonlinear characteristics of air pressure variation and wave transformation of a fixed air-chamber structure are discussed theoretically and experimentally. Two analytical methods(method I and II) based on the perturbation method and Green's formula are employed in order to evaluate nonlinearities by the submerged and semi-submerged air-chamber structure. Moreover, an air compression model is newly developed to estimate the dynamic air pressure in the air-chamber inside the structure, assuming the Boyle-Charles's law with adiabatic process in the air pressure variation. Theoretical values of the method I considering evanescent mode waves at an fictious boundary, are in good agreement with those of method II employing the fictious boundary which is not affected by evanescent mode waves. Both theoretical values are shown to agree well with experimental values.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.