• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.801-816
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• 1996

The study is in depth an analysis of the consciousness structured in unisex, androgyny, punk and postmodernism fashion in order to explain the dominant bisexual trend in fashion since the 1960's. Bisexuality in fashion can be interpreted as an effort in recovering the attitude within commentarialism, as opposed to the dichotomous split of the sexes. It is a reflection of the fundamental desire to be as one and implies "freedom" as an expression of feminism and postmodernism furthermore. Bisexuality is a reactionary movement in fashion which encompasses adaptive ways to the world we now inhabit. It is also a clear picture of the necessity of destroying the dichotomous sexuality in order to achieve the freedom and the importance of realizing as a whole the oneness of human kind. Bisexuality in fashion primarily is the pursuit of a new perspective on the human entity required in the modern world. Namely a communitarian spirit devoid of sexual prejudices. And secondly, it is a phenomenon reflecting the transitional woes of the pluralistic society experiencing deconstructivism and reconstructivism.ructivism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.346-359
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine students' reasons and standards for purchasing their casual upper garments through online shoppin. A questionnaire composed of 26 items in five-point Likert type (14 items for measuring reasons, and 12 items for measuring standards for their purchase) was administered. The subjects were 422 male and female students attending middle schools, high schools and colleges located in the metropolitan region of Daegu. For a statistical analysis, a $3{\times}2$ two way ANOVA design (3 levels of schools: middle school, high school and college and 2 sexes: male and female) was involved, and Turkey's HFD multiple comparisons were made. The results showed that the reasons for students' purchasing casual upper garments through online shopping malls were as follows: quality, availability of discount coupons and points, other benefits such as special promotions, gifts, the easy return of goods and refunds, and also no trial of wearing shirts even at off-line stores. Significant differences in purchasing reasons through online shopping were found among middle schoo, high school and college students. There were also significant differences between male and female students mostly found in three variations of purchasing reasons: ease of availability of garments in contemporary fashion, convenient shopping without any restriction on time, and the decision to purchase with help from consumers' recommendations. Significant differences among middle school, high school and college students were found in the following standards for the students' decision to purchase their casual upper garments through online shopping: affordability, color, design, style, payment safety, and ease of maintenance (cleaning and ironing). Differences between male and female students were found to be significant in the following categories: affordability, fashionable, brand name, free delivery, product quality, coordination with other clothes, and consumers' recommendations on the products concerned.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.12-32
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• 2007

This study aims at investigating Geisha costume hidden in the history until now and how the fashion of Geisha style is expressed in accordance with character through the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha'. Major contents of the text consist of studies including the historical background and characteristics of Geisha costume in Chapter 2, the Japanese style expressed in the movie through the analysis of the work in Chapter 3, The movie brought in an opportunity to spread the mysterious culture and art of Japan to the world, making Japanese style an important interest in the world of fashion as well. In a way to study this, the investigation was carried out through literature data, DVD and newspaper of , fashion magazine, articles from the Internet, ete. The Geisha trend has made the hot blast blown harder in such ways to affect not only fashion but also cosmetics, electronic appliance, interior, etc. In S/S 2006, it was not limited to the Japanese style but diffused to the Orientalism in China, India, Korea, etc. It can be said that this study has its significance to be a starting point in investigating the special characters of Japanese Geisha costume hidden up to now. In the studies following in the future, the formative beauty demonstrated per Japanese designer needs to be more studied. Furthermore, it seems noteworthy to analyze and compare Chosun Dynasty's Kisaeng with Japanese Geisha.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 1978

This paper is an observation on the woman's warming hoods such as Nambawi, Pungchae, Ahyam, Jnbawi and Gullae worn form 1800's through 1930's. At the late era of Chosun dynasty, The every day lifes of people were greatly influenced by invasion of western world, in particular the styles of clothing are changed from original one to Western-like. So the hoods of our own's were dissappcared gradually, and the interests of them were reduced accordingly by the western culture invaded. Therefore this paper is intended to participate in the study of clothing culture by considering of hoods, one of the almost disappeared clothes, and review the wisdom and sense of beauty of our ancestor by unique ornament. The warming hoods in this paper are from a category of ear-protection gear and also deformed from man's one. The ear-protection gear was a warming hood from Tae Jong, the king of the early era of Chosun, and usage classifications of them were strict according to the class division at the early and mid era of Chosun, but generally diminised at the late era, thery were used freely, but the differences in decorations represented the division of the rich and poor. General feature of it is open top, but covers all of head and is used for warming clothes, with has many decorations on it, this decorative tendency was more clear at the late era. Namely, the shape had been modified from tough one to modish one, and fur, the material of it, are from stiff and long to soft short and well refined. This warming hoods were used until 1930's then disappeared by the population of western mufflers and wraps. Jobawi is now already forgotten even its name except for the ornament in picturing the baby in first birth day. In revewing the consideration of warming hoods mentioned. It is found that the subtlety of the ancestor, and there are supplication for the happiness of life even in the decorations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.160-170
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image of color combination in fashion design. For this study 14,121 color samples were collected from 116 fashion brands selected by the market segmentation based on the results of the previous studies. The brands have high market share and brand recognition in each segmental market. The color samples were measured by spectrophotometer and analyzed by the Munsell's H V/C and CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value. The representative colors of each market were selected concerning the tensity in CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ color space and the distance between the color samples. h4 a result, 2,213 representative colors were chosen. These color samples composed top and bottom color combination samples by the program 'Item Comparator' that calculated the color differences$({\Delta}E^*)$. Top includes the items such as blouse, shirt, and coats, bottom includes the items such as skirt and pants. The color combination samples were divided into two groups. In one group ${\Delta}E^*$ was less than 30, and In the other group ${\Delta}E^*$ was 30 or more. For investigating the image of color combination, 480 rotor combination samples were classified. The image adjectives for the survey from preceding studies and brand dictionaries were 'classic', 'modern', 'feminine', 'casual', and 'romantic', which have highly preferred in women's wear brands. The result of the study is as follows; For 'classic' 'image, YR, and greyish tone were generally preferred. In the color combination of 'casual' image, the samples with PB color and greyish tone were preferred. For 'feminine' image, RP was preferred as a top color, R, RP, P were preferred as a bottom color. For 'casual' image, PB was preferred as a top color, PB, B were preferred as a bottom color. For 'romantic' image, RP was preferred as a top color, R, P were preferred as a bottom color. The bigger the color differences between the color combination samples were, the more remarkable the image of color combination samples was.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

This study is to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative nature of the human body which has been not only a main issue and discussion object but also socially, culturally connected with clothing by contemplating it in the respect of the trend of art. Additionally, a work of contemplation about human body introduced to fashion design was analyzed to renew the meaning and value of the formative art inside the human body. The way and scope of this study is to contemplate the concept and meaning of human body, based on the documentary records such as art history and clothing history in the West society as a main theme. The results of the analysis were as follows: In the first place, the formative characteristics shown in the modem arts expressing the human body since 1990 which are cubism, futurism, metaphysical painting, dadaism, surrealism, pop art, happening, feminism, body art, and technology art are distortion, exaggeration and dismantling. Second, the aesthetic formative nature and meaning in the human body appear to be different according to the standard of ideal beauty of human body when we examine the expression of it from the aspect of art-history and the meaning of human body implied in it. Besides, human body is being used as a messenger which delivers the message of modem artist to other people. So the changed meaning of human body has affected the clothing and made it possible to manufacture and form new styles of clothing that have never been before. In conclusion, the human body in the modem era plays an important role as a brand-new formative medium of communication in the human society and contributes to the development which applies the aesthetic formative nature of the human body to fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-112
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• 2005

21th is the century of culture. So each country create new culture from tradition, and at the hub, there is Rapid development of network which makes these things to be able. Also, Korea selected Han-Bok as a symbol of Korea culture, and also Han-Bok internationally. Han-Bok expresses our nation's emotion very well, and also, Han-Bok has universality that can stimulate on world's sensitivity. Consequently, this study will arrange and analyze the records of foreigners' feeling who visited in the period of the opening of a port as a target of our study. This study will offer materials for study in the period of the opening of a port. Also, this study will discover the significance and organization of our clothes. Way to wear it and the beauty of our clothes that we didn't even realize or not mentioned on the record because we were too accustomed to our beauty from the ancient time. So, we would like to be basic study that can make our clothes globally and appeal to world's sensitivity by finding the universality. The result of this study is as follows. First, the items of hat made us be called as a 'world of hat' so, Gat, Galmo(갈모), a women's winter hat(조바위), a fur-lined hood(남바위) and Ayam(아얌) will be obtained the world's focus. Secondly, we checked Belt, breast-tie, rainbow striped sleeves and Pocket which append vitality and movement arrested the foreigners' attention. Thirdly, foreigner's were interested with straw shoes and paper shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.