A Study on Woman's Warming Hood of Chosun Dynasty - Mainly from 1800's till 1930's -

조선조(朝鮮朝) 여인(女人)의 난모(暖帽)에 관한 연구(硏究) - 1800년(年)${\sim}$1930년대(年代)를 중심(中心)으로 -

This paper is an observation on the woman's warming hoods such as Nambawi, Pungchae, Ahyam, Jnbawi and Gullae worn form 1800's through 1930's. At the late era of Chosun dynasty, The every day lifes of people were greatly influenced by invasion of western world, in particular the styles of clothing are changed from original one to Western-like. So the hoods of our own's were dissappcared gradually, and the interests of them were reduced accordingly by the western culture invaded. Therefore this paper is intended to participate in the study of clothing culture by considering of hoods, one of the almost disappeared clothes, and review the wisdom and sense of beauty of our ancestor by unique ornament. The warming hoods in this paper are from a category of ear-protection gear and also deformed from man's one. The ear-protection gear was a warming hood from Tae Jong, the king of the early era of Chosun, and usage classifications of them were strict according to the class division at the early and mid era of Chosun, but generally diminised at the late era, thery were used freely, but the differences in decorations represented the division of the rich and poor. General feature of it is open top, but covers all of head and is used for warming clothes, with has many decorations on it, this decorative tendency was more clear at the late era. Namely, the shape had been modified from tough one to modish one, and fur, the material of it, are from stiff and long to soft short and well refined. This warming hoods were used until 1930's then disappeared by the population of western mufflers and wraps. Jobawi is now already forgotten even its name except for the ornament in picturing the baby in first birth day. In revewing the consideration of warming hoods mentioned. It is found that the subtlety of the ancestor, and there are supplication for the happiness of life even in the decorations.