• Title/Summary/Keyword: 문직물

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Analysis For Surface Roughness of Fabric by Using FFT (FFT를 이용한 직물의 표면거칠기 해석)

  • 문지성;권영하;강대임;박연규
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 1999.11a
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    • pp.383-387
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    • 1999
  • 인간의 감성을 고려하는 제품의 생산에서 촉감은 인간이 제품을 만질 때 직접적으로 느낄 수 있는 중요한 감각이다. 이러한 촉감의 연구를 위해 직물을 대상으로 직물 표면의 거칠기를 측정하고 해석하였다. 측정된 표면 거칠기를 Fast Fourier Transform 변환하여 직물구조를 분석하는 기준으로 하였다. 각 peak 값들을 분석하여 나온 값이 직물 구조를 수식화하여 사용할 수 있는 좋은 방법이 됨을 알았다. 또한, 실의 잔털량을 측정하여, 잔털량과 인간의 주관적인 감각을 대표하는 값과의 상관관계를 조사하였다. 잔털량이 인간의 주관적인 감각을 객관적으로 표현할 수 있는 한 요소로 사용될 수 있다는 것을 확인하였다.

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Weave Composition of the Patterned Silks Excavated from Lady Lee(from Hansan)'s Tomb - Focusing on the Satin Damask(緞) and Simple Gauze(紗)- (한산이씨 문직물저고리에 나타난 문양과 직물구성 - 단(緞)과 사(紗)를 중심으로 -)

  • Chang, In-Woo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.143-155
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    • 2013
  • This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

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A Comparative Study on the Change in Oriental Linked pearls Pattern (동전(東傳) 연주문의 변천과정 비교연구 -5세기~10세기 벽화복식 및 출토 직물을 중심으로-)

  • An, Bo-yeon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.40
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    • pp.243-270
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    • 2007
  • Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.

Effect of Stabilization Processing Conditions on the Thermal Shrinkage and the Thermal Stability of Rayon Fabrics Untreated and Surface-Treated with Phosphoric Acid (인산처리 유·무에 따른 레이온직물의 열수축과 열안정성에 미치는 안정화 공정 조건의 영향)

  • Cho, Donghwan;Lee, Jongmoon;Park, Jong Kyoo
    • Journal of Adhesion and Interface
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.10-17
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    • 2004
  • We investigated the effect of stabilization processing parameters on the thermal shrinkage, thermal stability and microstructure of rayon fabrics stabilized under various conditions such as heating rate, stabilization temperature, atmosphere gas, and chemical treatment. The presence and absence of phosphoric acid treatment and the heating rate have most importantly influenced the thermal shrinkage and the weight change of rayon fabrics. Especially, the phosphoric acid treatment decreases the reduction of thickness, length, and weight of the fabrics by about 80%, 20%, and 26%, respectively, in comparison with the untreated counterparts, showing the protective effectiveness of the thermal shrinkage involved. The thermal stability of stabilized rayon fabrics is also affected by all the processing conditions used: stabilization temperature, phosphoric acid treatment, atmosphere gas, and heating rate. In addition, the surface and diameter of the stabilized fiber significantly depend on the treatment of phosphoric acid prior to stabilization process.

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A Study on Development with Lightweight Fire Wood Door (경량화 목재 방화문 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Moon, Sung-Woong;Jeon, Jun-Pyo;Rie, Dong-Ho
    • Proceedings of the Korea Institute of Fire Science and Engineering Conference
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    • 2011.04a
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    • pp.188-191
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    • 2011
  • 현대사회는 기술의 발전으로 인하여 초고층 건축물과 미적 감각을 최대한 활용한 각종 구조별, 형상별 건축물들이 등장하였다. 따라서 이에 사용되는 건축 자재들이 다양화됨에 따라 화재 발생 시 유독가스생성 및 빠른 화재 확산으로 이어질 수 있는 위험성들이 잠재되어 있다. 이러한 화재위험을 최소화하기 위하여 국내에서는 KS F 2257-1:(건축 부재의 내화 시험 방법)이 제정되어 현재까지 구조물의 화재성능을 확인하고 있다. 이에 따라 내화벽 및 방화문이 건축물에 설치되어 건축물의 하중이 크게 증가하고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 기존에 활용되지 않은 소재를 활용하여 목재 방화문을 제작하였으며, 이에 따른 성능을 분석하였다. 그 결과 내화 직물원단은 13분, 글라스울은 17분의 내화성능이 있는 것으로 확인되었으며, 난연 목재로 제작된 심재의 탄화를 보강할 불연 심재를 사용하여 개발 방향을 설정해야 할 것으로 분석되었다.

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A Study on Fire Resistance Using The Scale Experiments (축소실험을 통한 내화시험에 관한 연구)

  • Moon, Sung-Woong;Jeon, Jun-Pyo;Rie, Dong-Ho
    • Proceedings of the Korea Institute of Fire Science and Engineering Conference
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    • 2011.04a
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    • pp.176-179
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    • 2011
  • 국내에서는 방화구획을 설정하여 화재 확산 방지 및 재실자의 대피 시간을 확보하고 있다. 방화구획에 설치되는 방화문은 방화문의 내화시험방법(KS F 2268-1)에 따라 시험을 거쳐 성적서를 발급 받은 제품에 대해 설치하도록 의무화 하고 있다. 그러나 본 시험방법은 시험체 제작, 설치 및 의뢰시험비용 등 상당한 비용이 소요될 뿐 아니라 제작, 설치, 시험에 소요되는 시간 또한 길다. 축소실험장치는 목재방화문 개발 중 재료의 내화성능을 평가할 장치로 개발되었으며, 표준시간-가열 온도곡선을 상회하는 가열실험을 통해 재료의 내화성능 결과를 얻을 수 있다. 본 실험에서는 난연 또는 불연성능이 뛰어난 재료를 대상으로 실험하였으며, 그 결과 난연목재는 5분, 마그네슘보드와 내화 직물원단은 60분의 내화성능을 갖춘 것으로 확인되었다. 이 결과를 토대로 방화문의 내화시험방법과 상관성을 도출하여 목재방화문 개발의 지표로 활용 가능하게 되었다.

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Analysis on the Heat-resisting Coating of High Heat-resisting/Smoke Retardancy Fireproof Fabrics and Products (고내열/차연성 방화제품의 내열 코팅에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Sang-Ryong;Kim, Sang-Wook;Lee, Do-Hyun;Min, Moon-Hong;Son, Hyun-Sik;Ahn, Seung-Guk;Bae, Jin-Hwa
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2011.03a
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    • pp.97-97
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    • 2011
  • 현대사회에서 화재에 의한 물적 피해는 물론 인적피해가 현저하게 증가하고 있으며 희생자의 사망원인이 종래에는 화재시 발생한 열에 의한 화상을 중심으로 하는 소사였지만, 최근에는 화염보다 독성가스로 인하여 사망하는 경우가 많아졌고, 희생자는 거의 화상을 확인할 수 없거나 화상자이더라도 혈액 중에서 일산화탄소를 중심으로 한 유독가스가 확인되기 때문에 이들 유독가스의 흡입으로 인하여 행동불능상태 이후 열의 영향으로 사망한 것으로 추정되는 사례가 증가하는 추세이다. 따라서 대규모 건축물에 있어서는 화재발생시 유독가스가 건물 전체로 연소 확대되는 것을 방지하기 위하여 넓은 면적을 일정한 면적으로 구획하거나 계단실 등과 다른 부분 또는 층별 등으로 구획하고 있으며, 국내의 방화구획은 크게 다른 층으로 화재전파를 막기 위한 층간 방화구획, 연소면적을 제한하기 위한 면적별 방화구획, 다른 용도로 인한 화재 위험성 감소를 위해 용도별 방화구획으로 3가지를 법에서 채택하고 있다. 방화구획은 방화문 또는 자동방화셔터를 이용하거나, 내부구조의 바닥, 벽, 각종 방화문으로 구획할 것을 정하고 있다.(피난방화규칙 제14조) 본 연구에서는 철제방화셔터 대체용으로 직물방화셔터용의 실리카 소재를 이용하여 제직한 직물에 내열/차연 기능성 코팅의 공정 조건을 변화하여 최종 방화시험을 거치기 전 내열성 테스트중 하나인 불꽃열 통과량 실험을 실행하여 방화 직물의 내열성을 비교 분석하였다. 이러한 결과를 토대로 본 연구는 고내열/차연성 방화 제품 기술을 개발하는데 필요한 연구를 수행하는데 목적이 있다.

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A Study of The Fabrics for Enshrining Oblations inside a Buddhist Statue in MoonSoo Temple (문수사 복장직물에 관한 소고)

  • 권영숙;장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.6
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    • pp.101-115
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    • 2001
  • This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

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A Study of the changes of the Dan (緞) Fabrics for Hanbok Since 1945 (해방이후 한복용 단직물의 변천에 관한 연구)

  • 신혜성;홍나영
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.6
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    • pp.715-724
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    • 2003
  • The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.