• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.15-25
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• 2009

The structure and material of Mang-geon from excavated tomb of Yi-ikjung in 1700', Seoul, were analyzed and identified. The Mang-geon was worn by Yi-ikjung when it is found. Until now, it is know that Mang-geon is made of horsehair, but it find out to be made of silk threads. This result verified the presence of 'sa-kyul Mang-geon' which been estimated to used only for document records. This proves Mang-geon has been produced in the silk threads as well as horsehair and human hair. The front and back of the Mang-geon was made of intertwisted silk threads by using simple linking method. Dang is constructed of looped linking method. The size of Dang is wider, which give greater flexibility to wrap top of head.

• The Journal of the Korean life insurance medical association
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• v.17
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• pp.95-101
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• 1998

삼성생명의 97년 상반기('97.1.1${\sim}$'97.6.30)에 발생한 조기사망건에 대한 분석을 하였다. 조사대상은 계약시 진단을 받고 가입한건중 계약일로부터 1년 이내에 사망한 사람을 대상으로 하였으며 자살과 불의의 사고에 따른 건은 제외했다. 조기사망은 진단건수 90,934건 중 26건(20명)이 발생하였으며 이는 100,000건당 29건이었다. 성별로는 남성 21건, 여성 5건으로 남성에서 높은 발생률을 나타내었으며 40대(代)이상 연령층에서 반수 이상을 차지하였다. 사인은 일반국민을 대상으로 한 사망원인과 일치하여 악성신생물이 가장 많았고 이어서 심질환, 뇌혈관질환의 순서였으며, 악성 신생물 중에서는 특이하게도 간암이 위암보다 더 많았다.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.3-20
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• 2022

The origins of the world-recognized Korean gat can be traced back to Gojoseon, and the jades for the sangtu and gwanja come from Hongshan culture. This study examines the etymology of the hat, the symbolism of the gat and the jade comb, and the history of the development of the accessories for the hat. The research methods of literature review, investigation of relics and murals, and analysis of cases of pronunciation changes were used. Most of the relics excavated from the Hongshan are identical to those excavated from Korea. The Byun-Khan people wore a triangle-shaped conical hat (the byun), which was shaped to fit the protruding sangtu hairstyle, with a foldable brim that, if pulled downward, changed the hat to a gat. The Chu sangtu, a pointed top-knot hairstyle, is uniquely found among Northeast Asian peoples, and it is an ethnic symbol for Koreans. Until the modern period, many Koreans wore their hair in the sangtu style, indicating their descent from the sky. Jade combs shaped like birds and clouds from the Hongshan period emphasized the religious nature and ceremony of hair styling at that period. The word hat is widely used to refer to gat all over the world. The pronunciation of ㄱg, ㅎh. and ㅋq/kh are closely related to each other, and the ancient pronunciation ㄱg gradually evolved to ㅎh or ㅋq/kh. The English 'Hat' and Korean 'Gat' were transformed from the middle-ancient sound 'gasa > gosa > got' of the crown 'gwan, gokkal'. This creative hair style culture that started from the Hongshan culture continued to be fashionable during the Gojoseon Dangun period, and the decoration techniques for hats and accessories were inherited over time and continuously developed. Along with the method of making gat, creative hair-related parts, such as manggeons, donggot pins, gwanja buttons, and fine combs were developed over the course of a thousand years.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.160-171
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• 2014

The provision of support for the art of making these items needs to be considered with the focus on the following factors: the local situation of the areas where such traditional handicrafts are still made, the craftspeople involved in their production, and their communities. So far, discussion about how to reinvigorate traditional handicrafts, including those mentioned above, has been concentrated on the measures taken to promote them as part of the handicrafts industry and the allocation of the government's budget for important intangible cultural heritages. The government runs a traditional handicrafts management system and provides financial support for the craftspeople and spaces for exhibiting their work. This form of support has led to systematic management of traditional handicrafts and heightened public interest in cultural heritage, as well as publicizing the country's traditional crafts, but has made little progress in the following areas: the fostering of young people willing to learn traditional skills, diversification of the types of skills to be maintained, or establishment of the networks of collaboration among the craftspeople. The most important aspect among the efforts mentioned above is to maintain cultural traditions that are unique to each region by encouraging local craftspeople to engage in their work with a solid sense of pride backed up by financial support. This study was carried out in connection with the need to reinvigorate the art of making tanggeon (horsehair crown), manggeon (horsehair headband), and gat (black horsehair hat), which few people wear as they are used only for ornamental purposes nowadays. This study examined the circumstances surrounding the artisans engaged in the production of horsehair handicrafts prior to their designation as a cultural heritage, and the changes that occurred in the local communities associated with their production after the designation, in order to assess the status of inheritance of this tradition.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.459-470
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• 2018

Cellulose nitrates were used for folklore artifacts(ornamental beads and pipes in hatstrings, frames of eyeglasses, ornamental eyeglass cases, headband ornaments, and jeogori buttons) between the 19th and 20th centuries; however, they are susceptible to cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling due to deterioration. To consolidate and adhere deteriorated cellulose nitrate folklore artifacts, water-soluble acrylic emulsion adhesives were investigated. For consolidation, Plextol D 498, which has the lowest viscosity in low concentrations, was used. In adhesive films whose glass transition temperature(Tg) is lower than room temperature, the tensile stress and modulus decreased and the strain increased; therefore, the flexibility was high. The Plextol D 498 and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films maintained their adhesiveness and flexibility after artificial-sunlight-accelerated ageing, and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films hardly caused yellowing. Plextol D 498 was the most stable for accelerating ageing. A low concentration of Plextol D 498 emulsion resulted in the best permeability on the surface of cellulose nitrate, compared with other acrylic emulsions. To prevent ornamental hatstrings from cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling, a Plextol D 498 emulsion was used. After applying low concentrations(1%, 3%) of the emulsion to consolidate the fragments and high concentration to adhere the fragments, the ornamental hatstrings were protected from crumbling by deterioration, and their fragments were well-adhered. To preserve it from deterioration by oxygen and humidity, the treated ornament was sealed with an oxygen-barrier film using a low-humidity oxygen scavenger.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.68-89
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• 2021

In August 1837, a list of wedding gifts was given by Queen Sunwon (1789-1857) to her son-in-law, Namnyeong-wie, Yun Eui-Seon (1823-1887) at the wedding of Princess Deok-on (1822-1844). This Honsubalgi is now kept at the National Hangeul Museum. This text was used in the present study to examine the everyday clothes of the royal son-in-law in the early 19th century. First, the everyday clothes were organized into about 36 types. They were classified as tops, bottoms, hats, accessories, belts, pouches, fans and shoes. Second, the most important clothes were the ordinary formal attire, composed of the namgwangsa dopo and namgwangcho changui. As for the bottoms, the pants, the Chinese hemp leggings, two pairs of socks, the green silk belt, and a pair of light blue ankle ties were identified. Third, as for the head and accessories, there were heukrip, with the gemstone string and silk string, the jeong-ja-gwan and dong-pa-gwan, as well as tang-geon and bok-geon. And there were the sangtu-gwan, three types of donggos, and the mang-geon equipped with okgwanja. On the other hand, the jeong-ja-gwan and dong-pa-gwan are peculiar hats whose status has changed over time since the mid-18th century. The fact that the jeong-ja-gwan and dong-pa-gwan were given to Namnyeong-wie showed that the status of these hats improved in the early reign of King Heonjong. The belt was given with the sejodae that is suitable for the dangsang, the coral plates, and the silk bag containing a flint pouch. Fourth, there were the red-colored sejodae, a ssamji silk pouch for flint and the fan decorated with okseonchu, and shoes, such as unhye and danghye.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.4-21
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• 2018

This paper reviewed the legitimacy of the name of those sixteen pieces of hat artifacts known in Korean as pyeongjeongmo and currently housed by the National Palace Museum. This was undertaken in order to rectify the error of calling them pyeongjeongmo. Also, the paper suggested pyeongjeongmo's production method to apply representation of the artifacts or production of Joseon officials' hats as representation of ritual costumes in the royal court. The name pyeongjeongmo originated from pyeongjeonggeon. Gyeongguk Daejeon recorded that noksas wore yugak-pyeongjeonggeon and seoris wore mugak-pyeongjeonggeon, but the pyeongjeongmo artifacts housed in the National Palace Museum have been found irrelevant to those pyeongjeonggeons put on by both noksas and seoris. Rather, they has been confirmed as corresponding to dugeon or jogeon worn by byeolgams or suboks who served at the palace of the crown prince or princess. Through the investigation of the artifacts, the researchers could find out the tailoring and sewing methods, the finished look, and the folding manner of pyeongjeonggeon. Although the structure of pyeongjeonggeon was generally consistent, the frontal look was slightly different depending on the folding manner, resulting in three distinguished types of pyeongjeonggeon. Regardless, the pyeongjeongmo was made with one piece of fabric by a flat tailoring and folding method to create a three-dimensional hat. The finished shape appeared low in the front and high in the back side structure. The head girth was 55~59 cm, and the height was 19.4~21.5 cm. To make it with one piece of fabric, the head girth part was tailored in the same direction as the strands. Based on the artifact Changdeok 23820, this paper has also suggested a finished reproduction through the processes of preparing the materials, mounting, making the center ornaments, sewing and folding. The tailoring was completed with black silk fabric which was cut in a unique shape designed in advance, and hemp fabric which was mounted to the former. The top part of the head was finished with black threads, and the center line at the back was fixed with decolored cotton threads by blanket stitches with 3.5~4 cm intervals. Bamboo strands were inserted in the inside of the front-folded part, which then was fixed by patterned stitches with white cotton thread. At the back, a small bamboo clasp was attached so that one can lock it to the headband and prevent it from falling off.