Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.14695/KJSOS.2022.25.4.3

The Symbolism of Korean 'Gat' and the Etymology of 'Hat'  

Hyo Jeong Lee (인하대학교 예술체육대학 의류디자인학과)
Youngjoo Na (인하대학교 예술체육대학 의류디자인학과)
Publication Information
Science of Emotion and Sensibility / v.25, no.4, 2022 , pp. 3-20 More about this Journal
Abstract
The origins of the world-recognized Korean gat can be traced back to Gojoseon, and the jades for the sangtu and gwanja come from Hongshan culture. This study examines the etymology of the hat, the symbolism of the gat and the jade comb, and the history of the development of the accessories for the hat. The research methods of literature review, investigation of relics and murals, and analysis of cases of pronunciation changes were used. Most of the relics excavated from the Hongshan are identical to those excavated from Korea. The Byun-Khan people wore a triangle-shaped conical hat (the byun), which was shaped to fit the protruding sangtu hairstyle, with a foldable brim that, if pulled downward, changed the hat to a gat. The Chu sangtu, a pointed top-knot hairstyle, is uniquely found among Northeast Asian peoples, and it is an ethnic symbol for Koreans. Until the modern period, many Koreans wore their hair in the sangtu style, indicating their descent from the sky. Jade combs shaped like birds and clouds from the Hongshan period emphasized the religious nature and ceremony of hair styling at that period. The word hat is widely used to refer to gat all over the world. The pronunciation of ㄱg, ㅎh. and ㅋq/kh are closely related to each other, and the ancient pronunciation ㄱg gradually evolved to ㅎh or ㅋq/kh. The English 'Hat' and Korean 'Gat' were transformed from the middle-ancient sound 'gasa > gosa > got' of the crown 'gwan, gokkal'. This creative hair style culture that started from the Hongshan culture continued to be fashionable during the Gojoseon Dangun period, and the decoration techniques for hats and accessories were inherited over time and continuously developed. Along with the method of making gat, creative hair-related parts, such as manggeons, donggot pins, gwanja buttons, and fine combs were developed over the course of a thousand years.
Keywords
Hongshan culture; Gojoseon; MangGeon; Jade comb; Sangtu;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Atwood, C. P. (2015). The Qai, the Khongai, and the names of the Xiongnu. International Journal of Eurasian Studies, 2, 34-63.
2 Chae, K. S. (2017). 한국복식문화 고대 [Korean Costume Culture: Ancient]. Seoul: Kyeongchunsa.
3 Chae, K. S., & Kim, S. H. (2018). A study on Korean ancient conical hat (Kotgal) and the paper-folding. Journal of the Korean Fashion & Costume Design Association, 20(4). 1-16. DOI: https://doi.org/10.30751/ kfcda.2018.20.4.1   DOI
4 Cho, H. (2012). The word "Silk" comes from the word "Sil-kkury" used in the country "Ko-kkury". Sen'i Gakkaishi, 68(6), 7-12. DOI: 10.2115/fiber.68.P-167   DOI
5 Choi, C. T. (2013). A study on the name of a country Silla. The Journal of Linguistics Science, 64, 337-358.
6 Choi, C. T. (2017). 갑골음으로 잡는 식민사학 동북공정 [Colonial History Northeast Project captured by the Oracle bone sound]. Seoul: Book Lab.
7 'Colorful Saekdong from Gojoseon [고조선 때 '때때옷' 입다]' (2016, January 6) TIN news. Retrieved May 13, 2022, from https://www.tinnews.co.kr/10881
8 'Combs were always together in our daily lives [빗은 우리 생활 속에서 항상 함께했다]'. (2020, July 20). GNmaeil. Retrieved January 11, 2022, from http://www.gnmaeil.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=453962.
9 Covell, J. C. (1999). 한국문화의 뿌리를 찾아-무속에서 통일신라 불교가 꽃피기까지 [Searching for the root of Korean culture - from shamanism to the blossom of Unified Silla Buddhism] (Y. K. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Hakgojae. (Original work published 1990).
10 Covell, J. C. (2014). 부여기마족과 왜(倭) [Buyeo horseman and Wae] (Y. K. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Geuleulilkda (Original work published 2006).
11 Daegu National Museum, (2020). 선비의 멋 갓 [Seonbi's style Gat]. Dae-gu: Daegu National Museum.
12 Genthe, S. (2007). 독일인 겐테가 본 신선한 나라 조선 1901 [Korea Reiseschilderungen.]. (Y. K. Kwan. Trans.). Seoul: Withbook Pub.
13 Gilmore, W. (2009). 서양인 교사 윌리엄 길모어, 서울을 걷다 1894 [Korea from its capital : with a chapter on missions]. (B. K. Lee, Trans.). Paju: Sallim books.
14 Griffis, W. E. (2019). 코리아, 은둔의 나라 [Corea, the hermit nation]. (B. R. Shin Trans.). Seoul: Jibmundang.
15 'Hanbok argument over the opening ceremony of the Beijing Winter Olympics [막 올린 베이징 동계올림픽 개막식에 한복 '논란']'. (2022, February 5). KBS news. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from https://news.kbs.co.kr/news/view.do?ncd=5387936
16 Hesse-Wartegg, E. V. (2012). 조선 1894 여름 [Korea: eine sommerreise nach dem lande der morgenruhe 1894]. (H. K. Chung. Trans.). Seoul: Withbook Pub.
17 'History of Tanggun [탕건의 역사]'. (2022). Retrieved May 11, 2022, from https://www.cultureline.kr/webgear/board_pds/11393/[%202%20]%201.%20%ED%83%95%EA%B1%B4%EC%9D%98%20%EC%97%AD%EC%82%AC.pdf
18 Hwang, S. J. (2012). 동북아 대륙에서 펼쳐진 우리 고대사 [Our ancient history unfolded in the Northeast Asian continent]. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co. Ltd..
19 'In ancient Japanese relics ... Silla, Gaya, and Baekje are visible [日고대유물 속에 ...신라.가야.백제가 보인다]' (2016, January 5). ChosunBiz, Retrieved May 11, 2022, from https://biz.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2016/01/05/2016010500610.html
20 Jang, K. H. (2001). 망건장-중요무형 문화재 제66호 [MangGeon Jang- Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 66]. Seoul: Whasan culture.
21 Ji, Y. M. (2017). The Korean cultural gene resulted as Go-Joseon culture. Journal of Seondo Culture, 22, 245-269. DOI: 10.35573/JKSC.22.7   DOI
22 Kang, S. J. (1993). A study on the end of our 'Gwanmo'. (Doctoral dissertation). Seoul Woman University.
23 Kang. J. S. (2020). 다시 읽는 하멜표류기 : 코레아, 유럽을 처음 만나다 [Read again Hamel's Castaway Diary: Correa meets Europe for the first time]. Paju: Grimmsi.
24 'Kimchi and Hanbok ... Chinese actor claims "Gat originated in China" [김치.한복 이어 또... 중국 배우 "갓은 중국 기원" 주장]'. (2021, December 8). Yonhap News. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from https://www.yna.co.kr/view/AKR20211208099000534?input=1195m
25 Keith, E., & Scott, E. (2015). 영국화가 엘리자베스 키스의 올드 코리아 [Old Korea : the land of morning calm]. (Y. D. Song, Trans.). Seoul: Withbook Pub.
26 Kim, I. H. (2004). 흰바지 야오족 사회와 신앙 [Society and religion of white pants of Yao tribe]. Seoul: Kyungin publishing.
27 Kim, J. S., & Na, Y. J. (2022). A study on the origin of the word 'seres'. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (in press).
28 'Kotgal is the mother of origami... Let the world know the long history [고깔은 종이접기 모태...세계에 유구한 역사 알리자]'. (2015. January 26). Yonhap News. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from https://www.yna.co.kr/view/AKR20150126109500371
29 Landor, A. H. S. (2019). 조선, 고요한 아침의 나라/ 조선풍물지 [Corea or Cho-sen, the land of the morning calm] (B. R. Shin & W. Y. Jang. Trans.). Seoul: Jipmundang.
30 Lee, D. I. (2019). 이덕일의 한국통사- 다시 찾는 7000년 우리 역사 [Korea total history by Lee, D. I. - rediscovering 7,000 years of our history]. Paju: Dasan books.
31 Lee, D. I. (2020). 신주 사마천 사기 [Sinju Samacheon Sagi]. Seoul: Hangaram History and Culture Research Institute.
32 Lee, J. J (2021). 갓은 중국의 것 아니다 [Gat is not from China]. (2021, March 7) Cheonjiilbo, Retrieved May 15 2022 from http://www.newscj.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=835576
33 Lee, J. W. (2021). 옴니버스 한국사 [Omnibus Korean History]. Seoul: Korean Culture Broadcasting.
34 Lee, K, H. (2019). 동북공정 이전 중국이 쓴 한국사 [Korean history written by China before the Northeast Project]. Seoul: Juluesung.
35 Liu, Y. (2004). 황제의 나라 [Emperor's kingdom]. (Y. S. Kim. Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa.
36 Lee, M. J. (2008). Our costume culture seen by the foreign record and illustration in the opening time of a port. Journal of Korea Society For Historical Folklife Studies, 27, 205-234.
37 Lee, S. G. (2018). A Comparative Study of Gojoseon (古朝鮮) and Mongolian Language. Mongolian Studies. 55, 1-27.
38 Lim, S. K. (2002). 한단고기 [Handangogi]. Seoul: Jungsin SegyeoSa.
39 Nagasawa, K. (2005). 실크로드의 역사와 문화 [The history and culture of the Silkroad] (J. S. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: MinJokSa.
40 National Folk Museum of Korea. (2002). 코리아 스케치-파란 눈에 비친 100년전의 한국 [The Korea sketches by the Westerners, 100 years ago]. Seoul: National Folk Museum of Korea.
41 'Oh my god! Is the original K-fashion Got? [오마이 '갓'! K-패션 원조는 갓?]' (2021, May 25). KBS. Retrieved January 11, 2022, from https://news.naver.com/main/read.naver?mode=LS2D&mid=shm&sid1=103&sid2=245&oid=056&aid=0010840700.
42 Onyang Folk Museum. (1988). 朝鮮時代의 冠帽-특별전 도록2 [Joseon's hat- special exhibition 2]. Chungcheong Namdo: Onyang Folk Museum.
43 Park, S. H. (2010). Dressing relics of Hongshan culture and durability of Gojoseon dressing. Journal of Baeksan Society, 87, 5-71. Retrieved May 11, 2022, from http://scholar.dkyobobook.co.kr.openlink. inha.ac.kr:8080/searchDetail.laf?barcode=4010023313108   DOI
44 Park, S. H. (2011). 고조선 복식문화의 발견 [The discovery of (Go)Joseon costume culture]. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co.,Ltd..
45 Park, S. H. (2013). The Hongsan culture and Gojoseon ritual ceremony seen through attire and art. Journal of Gojoseon Dangun Association, 29, 107-180. DOI: 10.18706/jgds.2013.12.29. 107.   DOI
46 Robbeets, M., Bouckaert, R., Conte, M., Savelyev, A., Li, T., An, D.A., ... Ning, C. (2021). Triangulation supports agricultural spread of the Transeurasian language. Nature, 599(7886), 616-621. DOI: 10.1038/s41586-021-0 4108-8   DOI
47 Park, S. H. (2016). Gojoseon dress in clam dolls (人形蚌飾) excavated from Sohayeon (小河沿) historic site. Seondo Culture 仙道文化, 20. 243-302.
48 'Photo exhibition of Human original civilization: cloudshape jade [인류 시원문명 사진전시전- 구운형 옥기]'. (2016, August 8), Dahansarang, Retrieved May 15, 2022 from http://koreanskorea.com/main/bbs/board.php?bo_table=kgreat5&wr_id=15&page=1
49 Ra, S. J. (2016). A historical study of the origin and development Baekje costume based on literature documents. Journal of the Korean Fashion & Costume Design Association, 18(3), 229-243. Retrieved May 11, 2022, from https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201634347492007.page
50 Seo, G. S. (2020). Rooster feather, symbol of Go(gu)Ri on silkroad. Seoul: yeoyoudang.
51 Seok, J. S. (1985). 한국복식사 [Korean clothing history]. Paju: Bojinjae.
52 Shim. B.K. (2021). 한국상고사 환국 [Korea prehisoty Hwan-Guk]. Seoul: Barunhistory.
53 Shin, B. R. (2022). 이방인이 본 조선의 풍경 [The scenery of Joseon as seen by a stranger]. Seoul: Jipmundang.
54 Shin, Y. H. (2010). Formation of the Go Joseon civilization zone and its basic structure. Journal of Gojoseon Dangun Association, 23, 239-322. DOI: 10.18706/jgds.2010.11.23.239.   DOI
55 Taylor, M. (2014). 호박목걸이, 딜쿠샤 안주인 메리 테일러의 서울살이 1917~1948 [Chain of Amber]. (Y. D. Song, Trans.). Seoul: Withbook Pub.
56 'The Gojoseon engraved on the bronze flag was wearing a topknot [청동기에 새겨진 고조선인은 상투를 틀고 있었다]'. (2019, December 8). The Hankyoreh. Retrieved January 11, 2022, from https://www.hani.co.kr/arti/culture/culture_general/919847.html.
57 Wang, D. L. (2009). 红山實噐 [Hongshan real implement]. Beijing: Hwaye publishing company.
58 'The greatest luxury of Joseon men, highly praised abroad. Gat [해외서도 극찬 조선 남성들 최대의 사치, 갓]' (2020, December 23). Dong-A. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from https://www.donga.com/news/article/all/20201223/104604709/1
59 'The world's oldest civilizations, Hongsan culture, Gojoseon and Goguryeo, were in line [세계 最古문명 홍산문화, 고조선.고구려가 맥 이었다]'. (2019, October 2). Insightkorea. Retrieved January 11, 2022, from http://www.insightkorea.co.kr//news/articleView.html?idxno=58724.
60 Underwood, L. H. (2008). 언더우드 부인의 조선견문록 [Fifteen years among the top-knots 1904]. (C. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Esoop pub.
61 'Why does Joseon's Got and Mangeons appear in Chinese dramas? Hanbok Controversy [중국 드라마에 조선의 갓과 망건이 왜 나와 ... '한복공정' 논란]' (2020, October 17). Hanguk Ilbo. Retrieved May 11, 2022, from https://www.hankookilbo.com/News/Read/A2020101611290003671
62 Woo, S. H. (2019). 요하문명과 한반도 [Yoha civilization and Han Bando]. Paju: Sallim books.
63 Ye, Y. H. (1997). 인간문화재 [Human cultural property]. Seoul: Daewonsa.
64 Yim, B. Y. (2007). Cognition of Go Joseon appearing in historical books of the latter period of Joseon : Centering on 「Dongsa」 of Lee, Jong-Hwui. Master's thesis. Yonsei University, Seoul.