• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.123-139
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• 2001

본고는 공간, 시간, 계급, 종교 등 하위문화 텍스트의 병행인용 즉 상호텍스트성(intertextuality)을 통해, 20세기 대중 문화의 상징 마돈나 뮤직 비디오와 공연 등의 인체, 의상, 이미지 등에 나타난 포스트모던 정체성을 연구함으로써, 현대 미디어 문화를 관통하는 주체적 여성 정체성과 미적 주관성을 이해하고자한다. 첫째, 상호공간텍스트성 복식은 스패니쉬룩. 태국룩. 게이샤룩, 테크노펑크룩, 테크노 카우걸룩 등의 동서양의 지리적 소외감을 통해 비권위적 다양한 시선을 제시함으로써, 다국적 자본주의와 함께 확장된 미적 체험을 하게 한다.; 둘째, 상호시간텍스트성 복식은 중세 엠파이어 드레스, 18세기 로코코시대의 robe'a la francaise, 미래적 제 3의 종 룩 등 동시적 몽환적 이미지를 통해 유희적 유토피아를 지향하였다.; 셋째, 상호계급텍스트성 복식은 그라피티룩, 펑크룩, 키치룩, 먼로 룩, 보깅(voguing), 에비타 룩 등 상하류층, 하위문화, 빈부, 권력의 유무를 병행인용하여, 좋은/나쁜 취향, 창녀/성녀 이분법을 해체하고 반부르조아적 저항과 물질주의를 찬양하는 탈계급적, 양면적 정체성을 구축하였다. ; 넷째, 상호종교텍스트성 복식은 상징적 가부장인 카톨릭교 텍스트를 인용하여 펑키크리스찬 룩, 에로틱 크리스찬 룩 등의 선/악, 신성성/관능성, 미추, 정숙성/비정숙성의 이분법, 비장미를 해체함으로써 예술의 자율성, 무의식이 강조된 쾌락주의적, 반권위주의적 정체성을 주장한다. 섹슈얼리티에 있어, 시선, 권력, 쾌락의 주체가 됨으로써, 미적 범주에 있어 선악, 미추, 정숙성과 비정숙성의 이분법을 해체함으로써, 유동적 자아를 구성한 마돈나 의상의 포스트모던 정체성은 여성에게 확대된 가능성을 제공하며 내부로부터 해체된 열린 복식을 지향한다.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.4 s.62
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• pp.195-204
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• 2005

This study was peformed to systematize the concept of taste being recognized as new cultural values, as well as to ascertain the looks and aesthetical values presented in modern fashion in terms of taste. Taste is the life style being pursued individually, a preference and the important factor that characterizes each individual among contemporaries. In particular, the fashion is an important means able to differentiate respective tastes. The taste-based looks including; the dandy-look, the kitsch-look, fetish-look, the grotesque-look, and the kidult-look, etc. are reviewed as cases. Those are well expressing the phases of each times. The looks reflecting contemporaries' various tastes, are symbolic means showing the positive expectations on the present and the future. The looks are unifying fashion and society, and the designers are able to be key roles satisfying customer's taste by presenting of their collections. It is expected that the outcome of this study may provide academic basis of the tastes and a framework of interpretation of the tastes and fashion looks within culture by the aesthetical values presented as fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to present a new viewpoint in look by closely examining fashion and look through the past, present, and future. Specifically, the concept of time is studied and fashion is considered based upon the concept of time, finally, looks in fashion related to time are analysed. For this study, the literature of retro, modern, contemporary, futuristic looks that express the past, present, and future, and the classic look, the popularity of which transcends the concept of time was considered focusing on 20th century women's fashion. Design characteristics of these looks were analyzed utilizing photographs of collection images. The results of the study are as follows: first, although the retro look of different periods regularly rotate and appear, they change and develop in new and various ways depending on the Periodic background of the time they appear in, and thus show simultaneously the cyclical and straight nature of time. Second, the modern look includes not only the moaning of time concept of the present, but also of interpreting anew the formal significance of modernism in the present. In other words, because it cyclically repeats the times of past modern periods, the look can be said to focus on the cyclical nature of time. Third, the contemporary look is a style that expresses current time most exactly as it exists, and it can be said to be the look in which current time is most vividly expressed. Fourth, the time concept in futuristic look is a subjective time that selectively accommodates and expresses the objective time of the future which has not yet come, and that can be the look's most important point. Last, the classic look possesses an objective value that transcends the concept of time, and it keeps returning, showing the cyclical nature of time. The closer this study came to the present, it could be seen that a look communicated more complex meanings, Influenced by periodic phases such as diversification, individualization, and eclecticism, and that while it could not be defined as any one look, various elements were expressed eclectically by being mixed and matched with each other, and it could utilize more natural forms, colors, and materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.15-28
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• 2000

This paper focuses on the sports look expressed in 20th century fashion. It is Age of Sport just as rock'n roll became dominant cultural form of the 1960's and 1970's . In the 1990's the sportsware is fashion. Designers gazing into the future are inspired by the details and functionality of clothing for snow boarding , skiing , motorbike racing and fitness. No doubt fashion in 2000 will also be full of references to it. Since the late 1960's the sportswear that was originally a term for clothing worn for various sports activities in the 1890's has changed and is now considered as fashion for day as well as evening. This has occurred primarily in the U.S. due to the adoption of less formal lifestyles by Americans. while the sportwear is the term which stemmed from the need for functionality in sports, sports look is the style inspired by the formative elements, that is, the details, the shilhouette, and the colors of the sportswear. New technologies for sports, the powerful influence of youthful culture, and the celebritizations of the sports stars made the sports look much hipper and more popular. It can be categoried into three aesthetic values, I. e., the functional sports look,, purism and no useless ornament, the street sports look with fun, androgynous and unisex mode and the mix and match of different texture and colors, and the futuristic sports look with new high tech fabrics and avant-garde style.

• Archives of design research
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• no.18
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• pp.87-96
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to classify the images of blue based on expressive values communicated by color on symbolic aspects and the blue images expressed in modem apparel fashion. Images of blue are classified through the document studies as follows : The expressive values of blue are cold, receding, and sedative. Based on these values, affimative images of blue are classified infinite, lofty, peaceful, tranquil and contemplate. Negative images are classified sad, indecent, rebellious, and indignant. In apparel fashion, blue acted as a important image factor in classic, workwear, military and marine look. Blue green and purple blue in pale, greyish and light tones were showed as trend color. Meanwhile, purple blues in dark greyish, pale and greyish tones were more used for domestic womens wear.

• Journal of Digital Contents Society
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• v.19 no.9
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• pp.1653-1662
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• 2018

Inspired by the increasing popularity of cosmetic-related mobile application as a tool for instant beautification, the present study examined colors of virtual makeup templates and makeup looks. A survey study was performed by thirty-six respondents to determine the top three desirable virtual makeup templates among nineteen templates. The templates of 'Bella', 'Hilary' and 'Cara' were then analyzed by makeup specialists and color experts for the evaluation of their makeup design and colors. Each color feature of three makeup templates were also evaluated through statistical analysis of ANOVA on the measure of $L^*a^*b^*$ crossed with five types of face elements on three types of virtual makeup images. Overall results indicate that Korean female users in their 20s and 30s preferred a similar makeup concept appeared in makeup template and key worlds. They also preferred a pale skin tone with higher lightness and a slightly higher saturated lip color as an emphasis than other features.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.392-402
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• 2020

Many modern movies and animations rely heavily on CG (computer graphics). The use of CG has made it possible to produce beyond the limits of visual expression. There has also been an increase in technical and artistic efforts to create new and high quality CGs. Look development is the process of modifying and creating shaders and renderings in 3D to produce CGI (computer-generated imagery) that meets the director's intentions. However, small production or projects may have relatively little or no awareness of look development in the production pipeline. The problems that can occur when look development is not preceded are classified into three categories. first, the shader may react differently under the same lighting conditions. Second, there can be a problem in communication between workers. Third, there is a waste of not promising a look for a given situation. As a way to avoid these problems I studied by creating consistency by the look development system. In the limitation that make it difficult for small studios to do look development because of small workers, time and cost, it is meaningful to study and present a simple look development process that can be carried out by individual or small production.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.265-275
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• 2022

This study analyzes and categorizes the cases of military look's transitional design ideas in recent women's fashion collections, and derives characteristics. The research method is a theoretical review of military look and an analysis of fashion collection cases. The research results were classified into a total of six transformational design ideas. As a structural change in design, it is a decentralized type, a type of expansion and reduction, a change in the entire material, or a transition of some materials, and finally a type according to heterogeneous harmony and organic combination corresponding to styling. Finally, a total of three characteristics are the reconstruction of structural elements, the expansion of the metric of the second mix match, and the emotional fusion of styling. I hope that the study of the transformative type of idea of the new military look will be the driving force for creative design development and will be a basic study that can read the current status and changes of the times throughout fashion design.