• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.75-86
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• 2004

This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.461-474
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.959-976
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• 2023

This study participated in educational programs for young designers and received trainings in sewing technology through government and local government-supported projects led by a from a skilled craftsman. These initiatives aim to revitalize the Dongdaemun fashion cluster, which is currently experiencing stagnation. Our goal is to develop denim brands that reflect the unique regional characteristics stemming from the skilled sewing techniques and denim processes of the Changsin·Sungin regions, the production hubs supporting Dongdaemun, to discover solutions for revitalizing the local industry. For the research method, we collected data by actively participating in support projects related to the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. Additionally, we gathered data by conducting a theoretical review of the sewing industry in the Changsin·Sungin regions and the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. The research results include developing a denim brand collection-eight denim products-based on Changsin-dong's unique denim sewing technology and various denim washing processes acquired through the support project and regional characteristics. Overall, this study is meaningful in presenting a sustainable plan to revitalize the domestic sewing and manufacturing industry, focusing on the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. We achieved this by developing a denim brand that leverages the sewing and washing process technology and the unique regional characteristics of Changsin-dong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.49-63
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• 2003

Street Fashion plays an important role as an indication of new trends staring point for Young people who are fashion-conscious sensitive to changes in fashion. This study aims at: (1) comparing street fashion trends of young women in Korea and Italy by analyzing the characteristics of young people's fashion in Seoul and Milan between the seasons of Autumn in 2001 to Summer 2002 ; (2) understanding the way young women create ´self-image´ through the clothes they wear on the streets. Finally, 1 expect this study to become a useful source of data for a more detailed analysis of the overall trend of young people's fashion between the East and West.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.465-468
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• 2009

In this study, acid cellulase was used to treat denim fabrics by varying pH, temperature, enzyme concentration, treatment time and non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) concentration. Treatment condition was controlled based on the weight loss. The characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured in terms of tearing strength, stiffness, and color difference. The optimum conditions for cellulase treatment of denim fabric were pH 5.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 3% (o.w.f.), 90minutes. The weight loss did not change significantly with the addition of a non-ionic surfactant, but it improved when more non-ionic surfactant were used. The tearing strength of enzyme-treated denim fabrics did not deteriorate. The stiffness of the treated fabrics improved with the enzymatic treatment with and without the non-ionic surfactant. The difference in color of fabrics treated with enzyme increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.841-851
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the backstaining generated during cellulase treatment for indigo-dyed denim. The results were as follows. 1. High generating conditions of the backstaining were as same as best conditions for cellulose activity (temperature at 6$0^{\circ}C$, pH at about 4.5~5.5, treatment time at 40 min. and enzyme concentration at 2g/l). And also, liquor ratio, sample weight and repeated-use cycle of liquor had influenced on the backstaining. 2. The backstaining was decreased about 30~40% when various additives, that is, surfactant, anti-backstaining agent (C.M.C) and softners were added. 3. A application of image processing on the backstaining evaluation was more effective than method by reflectance, particullarly in out of level fabrics. In image analysis, the backstainings were measured by histogram between 256 gray levels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1139-1148
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• 1999

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The semantic differential scale established using the database collected from university students. Analyzing the subjective rating by common factor analysis with oblimin rotation five factors expressing the hand were induced. Factor one was the surface property related to the surface roughness or softness Factor two was the durability which was related to the compactness and bearing strength Factor three was the sense of weight which was related to the thickness and weight. The moisture related properties and the sense of shape recovery were the forth and fifth factors respectively. the evaluations on the surface property weight and moisture related properties were similar by men and women However the shape recovery and the durability were evaluated differently. Surface and weight related properties were important factors judging the hand of fabrics by both group.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.10
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• pp.133-142
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• 2000

The subjective hand and preference of enzyme hydrolyzed denim fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age of evaluators, the more sensitive their feeling. As the age decreased, evaluators felt fabrics become flossy and soft surface property is smooth, flexible, warm, refined. They didn't catch the sense of durability, moisture related property and sense of shape recovery. The lower the age, the fabric was more preferred. Women were more sensitive and consistent than men.