• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The influence of the 'well-being' trend on the every day life of our society can be found by recent books, articles, and magazines. The purpose of this study is to analyze the well-being trend and its effect on the current knitwear fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The 'well-being' trend is very different from the past life style and it will be a preceding life style in 21st century. (2) The preference for organic food and the promotion of 'colorful menu' came from the 'well-being' trend. And, the yoga, zen, meditation, aroma-therapy, spa, and massage are also under the influence of 'well-being' trend. (3) The Neo-Hippie look and Neo-Vintage look are connected with the 'well-being' trend. (4) The influences of 'well-being' trend on the current knitwear fashion are shown in the hand knitting (bulky knit & crochet), twin sets including cardigans, hand crafted details, natural colors, and natural materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.73-82
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• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.89-98
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• 2020

This study applied the Q methodology to analyze the subjective evaluation and recognition patterns of elderly women's clothing preferences. For the type 1, knitted materials and natural materials were preferred, and pastel colors were preferred. The type 2 preferred pants that cover the body shape, look young, and have good simple activity. The type 3 was a type in which the waist was treated with a rubber band, the clothes were comfortable to wear and the loose style was preferred. The type 4 was simple and prefers a style with a raised neck and no fasteners, and a clothes that was comfortable to wear. Type 5 was a type that prefers a style that looks important and colorful and youthful in design or color. In order to develop ZIGTECHnology apparel for older women, it is necessary to develop a design that can look aesthetically beautiful while covering the body shapes such as bending of the back and bending of the waist by reflecting the preferences of the older women. It is considered that it is necessary to develop clothing that takes into consideration movement functionality without obstacles to movements in consideration of changes in behavior and movement of hands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.415-420
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• 2004

The market demand for knitwear has been increased both domestically and in export. Despite of the high and consistent demand, knitwear design has been rather simple and tends to show mainly foreign influences. In order to compete efficiently in the world market and to provide more variety, knitwear design originated from our cultural background needs to be developed. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop various knitwear design adopting the Korean traditional 'Danchung' motifs and the main colors used in the motifs. Three knitwear works were designed and constructed, which included a round pullover, a half-sleeve V-neck one-piece dress, and an evening dress. The mainly used motifs consisted of natural motifs such as lotus, cloud, and motifs symbolizing good luck such as 壽 and 囍. The Original 'Dan-chung' motifs were stylized into different forms and colors, and this design work was done using CAD system including the 'Adobe Illustrator 9.0' and the '4D box Hi-Knit Program'. Based on the designed images created by the CAD system, an actual design works were knitted using different weft knit methods including a hand knitting machine and weft knit machine of the knitwear manufacturers. This study provided the possibility of knitwear design originated from the Korean traditional culture.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.873-882
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• 2010

Knitwear has become a part of fashion since aristocratic trend-setters of Medieval Spain and France began wearing luxurious silk stockings. However, in more recent times knitwear emerged as a fashion item in the early 20th century when jersey two-piece Channel dresses became popular amongst the French upper classes. Knitwear then evolved into genuine going out clothes through Sonia Rykiel in the 1970s. Sonia Rykiel has made a great contribution to developing knitwear, which she transformed from being used only in informal dresses or clothes for home wear, to a boarder in use in high-quality dresses such as those worn at parties. Unlike most designers who tend to make very different styles each year, she has restricted her clothes to those made with knitwear. The study examined the designs and formative characteristics of her knitwear in order to clarify why Sonia Rykiel's knitwear fashion is apparently so timeless. Results showed that her garments consistently used black oriented color combination, strife patterns, intarsia techniques and application of diversified subordinate materials and other materials that overcome earlier limitations of knitwear. In addition, her designs consistently express the typically Parisian sophisticated urban femininity through practicality, sensuality and playfulness. Overall, her fashion has shown that it exists for women in action through practical design within the scope of demode, the philosophy in her early days, and it has led her to hold great power over knitwear fashion for the past 40 years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1598-1610
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• 2007

The knit design of this study was developed from reconstruction of Gustav Klimt images including gorgeous colors, symbolic lines, patterns and decorations, and the purpose was laid at making of unique, creative costume image with modem sense and adding artistic value on crochet knit wears. As for the contents and method of this study, We analysed formative aspects of Gustav such as line, color and shape Klimt in his art, and reviewed the cases where his works had been employed in modern costume. The conclusions are as follows; First, painting is important motif for contemporary costume design, and according to the individual thinking and expression, can be a major momentum for development of original design. Especially the organic lines and decorative patterns of Gustav Klimt paintings were suitable for rich decorative motif of costume design. Second, the unique colors of Gustav Klimt paintings can, if introduced to costume, allow new color combination. Third, crochet technic, by the texture of material, can present rich expression even with the basic knitting only. The embroidery metallic thread which is the main material for this study, was good for expression of gorgeous and classy image, in spite of the difficulties from its typical luster and embossed feeling. And the mohair, used as decorative motif, allowed more three dimensional expression with its rich voluminous and tangling property. Fourth, in applying Gustav Klimt paintings to costume design, other technics such as knitting, beading, applique, and patchwork helped creation of more unique clothes, presenting possibilities of rich artistic expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1475-1486
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• 2007

This study aims to develop knitted ware design to meet desire to express diversity in the modern fashion design so that we designed knitted ware by applying african geometric pattern and color to suggest new knitted ware design. We collect data about african texture pattern through technical books, publications, internet, and preceding research and visit and investigate the African museum. We investigate knitted Jacquard texture through preceding research and collect sample and data which is insufficient in the data source. The conclusions in this study are summarized as follows: First, African textile pattern is formulated with animism based on their religious view of art for a basis and African regards nature like animal and plant as a motive and interprets nature in the so that they can create symbolized geometric features that constitute African texture pattern. Those patterns is composed of extremely geometric figures so that they we fit to apply for color jacquad knit design. Second, color knitted jacquad can be distinguished by knitting method and status of knitting as 7 kinds of techniques such as Nomal, Bird'eye, Floating, Tubular, Ladder's back, Blister, Transfer Jacquard, and as a result of preceding research and knitting texture directly, jacquard technique makes different texture under same condition like consistent spinning rate and same crochet hook. Third, Bird'eye Jacquard used generally to make knitted ware and Ladder's back Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard used to make knitted ware light are fit to apply them to 7GG and 12GG machines. We design a cloak as a outer garment, a coat shaped like one-piece dress and a coat with hood by using Tubular Jacquard which can make thick texture and design a jacket, a skirt and a one-piece dress by using Bird'eye Jacquard. we make a light and flimsy one-piece dress by using Ladder's back Jacquard. Fourth, we apply the contrast of $4{\sim}6$ color and line and the contrast of texture and raw material to jacquard in order to emphasize texture property and visual property.