• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.51-67
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to segment male university students on the basis of benefit sought in clothing, and to investigate knitwear image preference and purchasing behaviors of each segmented market. The research method was a survey and subjects were 249 male university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The questionnaire consisted of measurement items for benefit sought in clothing, knitwear image preference, knitwear purchasing behaviors, and subject's demographic attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ${\chi}^2$ test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. The results were as follows. First, male university students were segmented into 6 consumer types (practicality pursuit, individuality pursuit, comport pursuit, brand pursuit, social status pursuit, and unconcern type) by benefit sought in clothing. Second, male university students generally preferred dandy image and causal image, however, brand pursuit type more preferred trendy image, and practicality pursuit type more preferred active image than other consumer types. Third, the segmented markets showed many differences on knitwear purchasing behaviors. On clothing selection criteria, practicality pursuit type considered resonable price as important, whereas brand pursuit type considered brand reputation. On fashion information source, individuality pursuit type considered store display and other people's clothing, while unconcern type considered advice from friend and family. On main purchasing place, individuality pursuit type more used speciality store with no brand, whereas brand pursuit type more used department store and brand store than other consumer types. The results of this study supported that benefit sought in clothing can be useful as an effective variable for market segmentation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.29-45
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide base line data required to establish a viable knitwear marketing strategy targeting young people by comparing and analyzing preference and buying behavior of customers in their twenties. A survey was conducted in 2009 and 2013 on people in their 20's male and female living in Busan. The total of 362 people participated in the survey and the results are as follows: Firstly, the seeking factors for knitwear were utilization factor, functionality factor, care for clothing factor, economics factor and vogue factor. Secondly, a differentiated marketing strategy targeting 20-something customers needs to be established as there was a steep rise in the number of customers purchasing clothes on online shopping malls using smart phone devices according to the survey.'Low-price, broad-line strategy'is also required as those surveyed preferred stores offering a wide choice of designs with reasonable price. Considering the survey results that a growing number of people tended to buy a variety of knitwear items regardless of the seasons, knitwear production needs to be diversified in terms of designs and materials. Thirdly, the survey revealed that pastel-colored knitwear was preferred for spring/summer season whereas knitwear with achromatic colors was voted the most-preferred one during the autumn and winter season. In terms of knitwear shapes, the gap between genders continues to narrow and tendency sensitive to fashion trend became more apparent reflecting the change of the times.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

We performed the subjective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics used for S/S among fabrics as basis, five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yarns made by different twisting methods then, we did questionnaire survey targeting sixty females in the expert groups. Utilizing SPSS 12.0, correlation, ANOVA, Duncan, and Multidimensional Standard way were analyzed. The results are as following. First, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sense factor, in the 'drape sense', the acrylic/rayon blended knit was preferred as the most flexible, pliable, and elastic knit; in weight/bulk factor, the acrylic filament knit the most twisted was preferred as the least bulk, thin, cool and transparent knit; in 'surface depression sense' factor, A(F)W acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most haggard, straight, dry knit. Second, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sensibility factor, in the 'neatness' the acrylic filament hit was preferred as the most clean, neat and delightful knit; in the 'comfortableness', the acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most natural, stable, and comfortable knit. Third, according to the result of evaluating on preferred knits as the spring and summer, generally the acrylic filament twisted yarn knits were more preferred than the acrylic blended yarns. However the preference on the kinds of the acrylic twisted filament yarn showed that there is a little difference on the acrylic blended yarn knit.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.137-148
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• 2008

This article investigates the production process of knitwear focused on patterns and armhole forms in order to provide basic data for its value-added production. This study was based on empirical data obtained by questionnaires given to 51 respondents employed at knitwear companies. The data had been statistically analyzed with frequency analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test. The results of this study are the following: First, many knitwear companies used knitting machines, which had gauges as high as 14G. Second, most knitwears companies did not use patterns in the production process. Third, most knitwear companies produced knitwears in which armhole lines were different between the front part and back part of the body, while identical between the front and back parts of the sleeves. Fourth, people with experience in the knitwear industry had the tendency to recognize that armhole lines should be different between the front part of both the body and sleeves and their back part as well, and workers in charge of knitting recognized better than programmers and designers did. Considering the opinions of experienced workers that armhole lines differ between the front and back parts of both the body and sleeves would improve the appearance of knitwear, this study also suggests knitwear patterns of 10G and 16G by using ESMODE's basic knitwear pattern.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.127-145
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• 2012

In an effort to investigate the overall trends of knit fabrics in fashion trends books, this study analyzed the components(fabric, yarn, gauge, thickness, knitting structure, pattern, dyeing and finishing) of knit fabrics in fashion trends books by the years and seasons from the S/S season of 2002 to the F/W season of 2011. Analyzed in the study were total 883 knit fabrics including the knit samples in Nelly Rodi Knitwear and Promostyl Fabrics. Collected data were put to frequency analysis with SPSS 12.0. Group mean analysis was also performed for thickness. The research results were as follows: As for knit fabrics in fashion trend books by the years and seasons, knit fabrics were most used in 2004 with similar frequency of knit fabrics among the seasons. As for fabric composition of knit fabrics, the uses of blend fabrics were considerably prominent both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2003 and the F/W season of 2002. As for gauge composition of knit fabrics, S/S seasons saw the most uses of fine G of 20G or higher, while F/W seasons saw the many uses of 12G-18G, which showed the highest frequency in 2002. As for knitting structure of knit fabrics, the plain stitch was used most both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2011 and the F/W season of 2007. As for pattern of knit fabrics, stripes and solid patterns were used most regardless of seasons. As for dyeing and finishing of knit fabrics, non-processed fabrics were used most, recording high frequency in the early 2000s.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.532-542
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• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.