• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1754-1762
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype suitable for the 20's obese male's trunk with a BMI of 25kg/m² or more, which is distinguished from the standard body type. Through this, it was intended to provide data to help the development of clothing for obese males. Patterns such as front bodice shoulder line and front sagging were modified through primary appearance and garment pressure evaluation. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as back armhole, back waistline, and front sagging were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by removing the front sagging added through the second evaluation. In the case of obese male body types in their 20s, a drafting method distinguished from the standard body type was required in the method of setting the front and back waist lines, back armhole darts, and front shoulder lines due to protruding and posture of the abdomen. This study was meaningful in that it presented a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the 20s obese males. In the follow-up study, it is thought that actual clothing experiments and studies to develop clothing patterns by applying them to obese male tops in their 20s should be conducted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.403-415
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• 2012

This study did a comparative analysis on the patterns of several male bodice slopers, followed by evaluating the appearance through a virtual garment simulation, which used a three-dimensional virtual garment system. Through this process, this study attempted to comparatively analyze the suitability of the garment or each sloper according to body parts. The analysis of the drawing formulas of bodices slopers had the following results. With a standard chest size, all six slopers had a 1:4 ratio for a front and back chest size; 1:5 or 1:6 for a front and back breast size 1:5 or 1:4 for a neck base circumference; and 1:20 or 1:12 for the chest size. When comparing the anthropometric figures and the actual measurements of each body part for the bodice slopers, the actual measurements secured extra amounts in the drawing process. The evaluation results for appearance of the six men's bodice slopers showed that the slopers used by companies (E and F) had top scores followed by the slopers made for (C and D), while the sloper for education (A) received the lowest scores. Regarding the results of the variance analysis verifying the significant difference between the slopers, twenty-five items had significant differences with the exception of four items on the front side and one item on the backside.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 2009

In this study, we tried to verify the effectiveness of 3D scans of clothed participants from 20 to 24 year old men in fit analysis process. Carrying out fit analysis, we used 3D scan data and direct fit evaluation with the basic garments made as semi-fitted bodice pattern for men. The result of fit evaluation through 3D scan data showed the expert rated fitting items more positive than direct fit evaluation. Even though, generally there was a no significant difference in the response between 3D and direct fit analysis. Only there was a significant difference in the response to the specific place such as the center front line, neckline, shoulder seam, and etc. There was a no significant difference between the result of 3D scan and direct fit evaluation in the subjects' group. Also the result of assessment of 3D targeting consumers showed very positive and interested in using 3D scans for fit analysis. The ability to rotate the 3D scans for a variety of views proved to be a very effective process to analyze fit. Moreover, digital data is easily accessed at any locations and any time. Fit analysis using 3D scans could be great tool for not only fit evaluation in research but also better fitting in apparel industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2007

The usage of basic bodice blocks at men's apparel companies is investigated and the domestic and international men's upper bodice blocks are compared to find directions of research on development of bodice basic blocks. The following conclusions are found in this study. 1. The survey shows that basic bodice blocks are not used at men's apparel companies although all the respondents have good knowledge on bodice basic blocks. They responded that basic bodice blocks for representative body figures of each age category or of each country would help comparative studies on domestic and international basic bodice blocks and development of exporting apparel products. Also, they expected the utilization of men's basic bodice blocks both as education materials and in studies of design, of body figures, and of basic blocks for industry. 2. The comparative study on men's bodice blocks shows that waist circumference, hip circumference, neck circumference, height, and shoulder length, in addition to the minimal essential size items such as chest circumference and center back length, are used in most basic bodice blocks. The size formulae of each basic block are compared to find how the sizes are determined. For center back length, either measured back length or a certain proportion of height is used. For front and back interscyes, chest circumference is used in most basic bodice blocks. Either measured size, or a certain proportion of height or chest circumference is used for back height. The averaged ease allowances of basic bodice blocks are 3.2 cm for chest circumference, 10.8 cm for waist circumference, 1.2 cm for front interscye, 0.1 cm for back interscye, 0.2cm for shoulder length, and 0 cm for center back length. However, body blocks for different types of clothes have different ease allowances. Shirt basic blocks have ease allowances of 6.1 cm for chest circumference, 13.7 cm for waist circumference, 1.4 cm for front interscye, 0.6 cm for back interscye, 1.2 cm for shoulder length, and 1.8 cm for center back length. On the other hand, jacket basic blocks have ease allowances of 8.8 cm for chest circumference, 16 cm for waist circumference, 1.1 cm for front interscye, 1.4 cm for back interscye, 1.1 cm for shoulder length, and 0.8 cm for center back length.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.225-230
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• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.