• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.67-78
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• 2016

Research on ancient Indonesian 'sacred cloths' is essential since it shows a different perspective into Indonesian identity. Based on its function, the 'sacred cloths' are either made as a medium for religious ceremonies or as a medium for the living and the dead. The consuetude of preparing and creating the 'sacred cloths' are done to achieve the finest 'sacred cloths' worthy to be presented to God. The research aims to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles and to focus on the 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts, and this paper is the first part. The paper analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the period, religion, region, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The subsequent research analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the techniques and the patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' In this first part of the main research, the analysis reveals that animism developed in various ways in Indonesia from 500 BC to AD 1800. It was also as kingdoms of Buddhist, Hinduism, and Islam. The changes of religion may differ according to its region. Indonesian regions are divided into six big regions that produce textiles. These islands are Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Nusa Tenggara, and Bali. By space and time, the colors of Indonesian textiles represent the ideology of one religion. Indonesia produces primary colors of red, yellow, and blue(RYB). The colors are produced by extracting leaves of Indigo, Indian Mulberry root shell, Sappanwood's branches, Candlenut fruit, Turmeric root, and Mangosteen rind. Indonesia is a religious country, therefore the meaning of creating each 'sacred cloth' shows piety of the maker and the wearer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.12-31
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• 1997

This is a study on the changes of the ancient underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Functions of underclothes are follow ; to protect the body from cold, to support the shape of the costume, to cleanliness, to erotic use of underclothes and as a method of class distinction. Linen is the oldest as materials and cotton came into general use after the Restoration of 1660. We must suppose that woolen petticoat was at least as old as the Middle Ages and silk was rarely used until late in Victorian times. Until the middle of the last century underclothes were necessarily hand-made, and the absence of fit was noticeable until the introduction of man\`s drawers, fitting the leg, at the close of the eighteen century. Strings and ribbons were the fastenings for underclothes until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by buttons. One outstanding example of the first type of figures is a Babylonian girl of about 3000 BC from Sumeria who wears that today would immediately be described as briefs. Female statues show no trace of anything being worn under the chiton, but there is literary evidenced that the Greeks. A band of linen of kid was bound round the waist and lower torso to shape and control it. It was known as the Zone or girdle. The apodesmos, meaning a band, breast band, occurs in a fragment of Aristophanes. A Roman mosaic shows female athletes wearing a bikini-briefs and bra in the fourth century AD. A similar band, called the mastodeton, or breast band, was also worn round the bust, apparently to flatten or minimise it, as in the 1920s, and not, to stress its curves. In Rome, too, women sometimes wore bands of material round the hips and bust-a cestus or girdle is referred to by the poet Martial and seems to have been similar to the zone, but wider, and the strophium, or breast band, is mentioned by Cicero.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.5-25
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• 2001

Jade, which is a kind of stone, with its transparent body, lustrous and bright character, But jade is not the only fair stone. There are three kinds of jade objects 1) tallies used in the court. 2) ceremonial jades. 3) ordinary jade for decoration, for inlaid work and for burial. Among the ceremonial jade, the most important were the "liu jui" and "liu ch′i." The former was supposed to be held by people in the court as symbols of their authority : 1) "then-kuei(鎭圭)" for the emperor. 2) "hang-kuei(恒圭)" for a duke, 3) "hsin-kuei(信圭)" a marquis. 4) "kung-kuei(躬圭)" for an earl, these "kuei" were alike in shape, but differed in size. 4) "ku-pi(穀璧)" for a viscount. 5) "p′u-pi(蒲璧)" for a baron, "pi(璧)" differed in decoration but were alike in shape. "Liu ch′i(六器)" were ceremonial objects used by the emperor in worshipping Heaven, Earth, and the Four Directions : "ts′ang-pi(倉璧)," greenish jade disk, used in worthipping Heaven "huang-tsung(黃琮)," yellow jade cylinder, used in worshipping Earth ; "cuing-kuei,(靑圭)" blue jade tablet. used in worshipping the East : "chih-chang(赤璋)," red jade tablet, used in worshipping the South : "hsuan-huang(玄璜)," black crescent, used in worshipping the North. Five kinds of tallies were "chen-kuei(鎭圭)," "yenkuei(琰圭)," "yuan-kuei(玩圭)," "ku-kuei(穀圭)." They were used to console people during disaster, to subjugate an official who had committed a crime, to reward a prize to an official for his merit or good conduct, to arbitrate disputes between high officials, to marry princess. and to dispatch troops. Since the west wei(西魏), Kuei and Hole were made of Ivory, wood and bamboo, who had ivory for fifth grade and wood and bamboo for under sixth grade. After Eastern Chou, all officials beginning to had kuei hole. symbol of Authority. and his wives. After Dang dynasty, Japan is the same. In korea. After king Bupheung in ancient and South(unification) Silla, North Kingdom Bohai, Koryo, and Chosen dynasty had ceremonial jade, Kuei and Hole.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.3
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• pp.29-46
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• 1980

The purpose of this thesis is to find out how the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and est had been influenced with each other. Analytical studies conclude the fellowing findings: 1) Upper garment styles in the feat Asia and the Egypt already highly developed in 28th century B.C. and show us the original style of the wrap-over to the left and that of the round neckline(曲領). Upper garment of the open in the center front shown in Babylonia in 18th century B.C. had been inherited to the caftan of the Hebrew and later succeeded to the Persia. 2) The tunic styles of the round neckline, the wrap-over to the left and the open in the cotter front, which were the basic styles of the upper garment, had teen widely accepted to the central Asia and the East Asia, as well as the Northern Europe, from the West Asia. 3) The styles of the wrap-over to the right originated from China since it had begun to show in the Shang Dynasty(商代, 殷代). 4) The East and the West costumes had been very much intermixed in 4th century B.C. Alexander the Great of Macedoria in 4th century B.C. expanded his territory to the central Asia and built up the Bacteria, when the most western civilization had been greatly transmitted to the Orient. Meanwhile the tunic being clad in the West and Central Asia began to be worn by soldiers in the period of the Warring States in China (326-299 B.C.) and afterwards worn even by civil officials since the age of the T'ang Dynasty of China. 5) The Upper garments of the open in the center front, the wrap-over to the right, the wrap-over to the left and the round neckline were found in Korea, which mean that the upper garment styles in the Ancient Korea were intermixed of the factors from the West Asia, the central Asia and the East Asia. 6) The styles of costume in the East Asia were influenced by the West Asia through the central Asia. The upper garment styles Europe were also influenced by the West Asia. Thus the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and West had been mutually affected with each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.51-61
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• 2003

1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.34-49
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• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.37-49
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of the twill damask fabrics through literatures review of both domestic and Chinese documents and records. In addition, the study aims to review the characteristics of the twill damask fabrics found at Sukga Pagoda. The twill damask fabrics can be categorized in terms of the weaving method into Float Pattern on a Tabby Ground, Twill Pattern on a Tabby Ground, Float Pattern on a Twill Ground, Twill Pattern on a Twill Ground, and Without Pattern on a Twill Ground. The fabrics ran also be divided in terms of their name into Ki, Neung, and Munju. Four items of twill damask fabrics were found inside the Sukga Pagoda. All of them are Twill Pattern on a Twill Ground. At the primitive level of weaving skill, twill damask fabric was made by adding patterns with twill damask or BuJik on the background of plain weave. At more advanced level, the fabrics are weaved by making patterns with twill damask or BuJik on the background of twill damask. Compared to the relics of Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, these twill damask fabrics were loosely weaved with relatively thick thread.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.33-50
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• 2010

This study was conducted as a preparation for the operation of 2007 revised curriculum and an effort towards professional development for Home Economics teachers in clothing life culture area. The aim of this study was to develop an teacher training program based on the clothing life culture in three kingdoms period, apply it to teacher training, and evaluate the program by analyzing the purpose of participation, trainee expectation and gratification, change of recognition level about Han culture, trainee satisfaction, and willingness to apply to teaching and attend further training program. The characteristic of the training program was that it consisted of both highly qualified lectures on professional contents and practices with school classroom level, and it dealt with the ancient korean clothing as its central subject. The purpose of the training program was to elevate the recognition of Han culture and increase the possibility of application in the classroom situation. It showed that the trainees participated with high intrinsic motivations, aiming to improve their professionalism in subject content and expecting various subject content. It also showed that the trainee gratification was very high in professional knowledge of clothing culture area, and the trainees were gratified in most evaluation items. As to the recognition level of korean culture, even before the training program, it was generally higher than average. After the program, it increased meaningfully. Through the training program, the trainees became feel prouder of Han culture and people and themselves as Home economics teachers. The contents of the program were considered very helpful for the improvement of professionalism and the design of instruction and learning activity. It was revealed that Home Economics teachers had very high expectations of the development of instruction-learning models which could enable them to experience new and interesting ideas, help enhance their professionalism, and be applied to their teaching. Therefore, continuous development and operation of the teacher training program relating to the life culture such as clothing, food, and housing life are needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.51-66
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to fashion-design the image of Cleopatra on the basis of Cleopatra's characteristic, clothing and its symbolic meaning shown in movie . In movie , Cleopatra(69B.C-30B.C) is described as passionate, intelligent, dignified person and even as enchantress. Costume that Cleopatra wears compound the type of ancient Egyptian costume in New Kingdom, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. Their color and pattern also symbolizes religion by adding ancient Egyptian myths to show the absolute royal authority. Therefore, design concepts, determined on the base of Cleopatra's characteristic and symbol meaning, are applied to make creative costume with Cleopatra's image of God Isis. In order to show Cleopatra's dignity, confidence, territorial ambition, black is used as a general base color. To represend Cleopatra's passion and the image of Isis, red is used. And the word 'Kemeto' represents all these symbols. As a whole, dress named 'Kemeto of Cleopatra' is designed and created.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.1-11
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• 1985

RESULTS : Considering the archaeological evidences, it is velieved that the southern culture centered in KuSu and the Nothern Culture centered in the centeral Japan, specially at the estern Japan, existed together with the culture come through the southern regions and northern regions of Japanese Islands in Jomon Culture and Yayoi Culture period. As the center of territory moved from KuSu to GiNae in Tumulus Culture period, two-pieced style of the northern people who have already there became prevalent. The costume of Tumulus Culture period was developed from the coexistence f southern style and northern style to the merge of the two styles by the nomads come from Korean Peninsula. The riding costume was propagated by Koreans, and the style used in Korean Peninsula was more deeply influenced to the costume of the ruling class. The costume of Asuka Culture and MakuHo Culture period succeeds the costume of Tumulus Culture period without wide difference. But the costume of Korean Peninsula lied more deeply as the root of Japanese Costume. While the costume of the ruling class was changed into Tang's style, the costume of the masses was under the influence of the costume of Korean Peninsula. It became the base of current Japanese Folk Costume.