• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.42
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• pp.419-449
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• 2016

The Russian icon and Korean tangwha (幀畵, altar portrait of Buddha) are based on the similarity of the divine Being. Each has the characteristic index that forms an existential connection with the object and at the same time, implies the symbolic meaning of the scriptures and doctrines of the Russian Orthodox and Buddhists. Russian icon and Korean tangwha with these attributes have origins in the Byzantine, India and China. Unlike most religious art, Russian icon and Korean tangwha clearly reveal profane orientation and mystical elements. This artistic phenomenon has evolved from the mystical religious culture in Russia and tantric rituals of the early Joseon period. Iconostasis, created from historical figures of the Old Testament, Jesus, the New Testament represent the principles of the macrocosm. Each icon of iconostasis has integrity, while each floor has another narrative and a meta-discourse on the entire composition. Three-Platforms of amrtakundalin can also have a huge epic that is directed from the Low-Platform to the High-Platform for the purpose of salvation. While the narrative of iconostasis has a time structure, from the beginning of the universe up to date in chronological time, amrtakundalin have pictorial transitions of time and space that rises from this life to a heavenly world. Despite the different world views of the Russian Orthodox and Buddhists, iconographical format and symbolism of heaven and hell in the Iconostasis, Last Judgment and amrtakundalin are similar. There is a constant antagonism between heaven and hell, light and darkness, water and flame. Iconographical contents include the water of life and nectar, the book of life and 'eoppu', and the scales and mirror of Karma that discriminate between the good and evil before judgment. The dualistic coordinate concept such as light and darkness, life and death, or heaven and hell that appears in the narrative structure of iconostasis, the Last Judgment and amrtakundalin leads the people to spiritual awakening.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.157-173
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• 1992

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.94-105
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• 2006

This study is focused on the man's costumes of Sadangpae(the troupe of performers) shown in Gamrotaenghwa (감로탱화) during the late Chosun dynasty. Originally Gamrotaenghwa was used as a painting for a Buddhist praying ceremony, 또Young-ga-cheon-do-je(영가천도제). It shows us the lives of the commoners in those days. Gamrotaenghwa reflects the changes of costume style in the late Chosun period. The early styles of po(포, coat) for male performers in the 17th century were changeui(창의) and dopo(도포), which had the front panels(seop) overlapped deeply and sleeves that got wider as time passed. After the 18th century, Male performers wore a simpler coat such as sochangeui(소창의), which had narrow sleeves and long slits on the both sides. Especially the coats of acrobats were fastened on the center front with buttons. Heuklip(흑립: black hat), somoja(소모자: small cap) and jeonlip(전립: wool hat) were used as hats for the male performers. Originally, heuklip was the hat that represented the noble status: yangban(양반). However, it was popularized among the commoners in the late Chosun period. As time passed on, the heuklip became more popular and its shape also changed. Somoja and jeonlip were shown throughout the entire Gamrotaenghwa. Unlike heuklip, those were common hats for Sadangpae. The costumes of entertainers shown in Gamrotaenghwa were very similar to those of the commoners. However, it seems that there were some differences of the costumes depending on the roles they performed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2007

This study is to review the costumes of female Shamans through Gamrotaenghwa(甘露幀畵) in the late Joseon Dynasty of the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of Mudangnaeryeok(巫堂來歷) showing Shamanic performances which is kept in Kyujanggak, Seoul National University was the only one thing enabling to compare with the Shamanic costumes shown in Gamrotaenghwa. The earlier Gamrotaenghwa doesn't show the Shamanic features but that of the later part of 18th century shows specific costumes so that the scene of Shamanic performance can be guessed. The Shamanic costumes are classified into 5 types. Type A is considered to have followed the figures shown commonly in earlier Gamrotaenghwa of the 16th and 17th centuries, rather than the traditional costumes. Types B through E show the costumes of the Joseon dynasty. With the basic costumes of skirt and Chogori(a kind of jacket, Type B), the variable costumes worn for each type of Shamanic performances are Mongduri(蒙頭里, Type C), Jeonbok(戰服, Type D) and Cheolrik(天翼, Type E). Reviewing the general style of those costumes, the upper part was tight and the lower part was silhouette of big volume, and the length of Chogori was a little long in the early of 18th century but it became shorter with narrower sleeves from the later part of the same century. According to the general literatures about the outer collars were not overlapped and its side parts were open, with half or no sleeves. In case that the target of Shamanic performance is male god, the Shaman wore the male costumes represented by Cheolrik and Jeonbok. Because these Cheolrik and Jeonbok which were worn during the Shamanic performance have the symbolic meaning to correspond with the male god, they didn't function as ordinary costumes.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.20
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• pp.163-204
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• 2010

"Nectar of Immortality", also known as Suryukwha, is a painting which is hung on the wall during Suryukjae, a rite to console the spirits residing on both land and water. The Suryukwha at Bonyung Temple in the Ming Dynasty consisted of 139 scrolls depicting separate scenes. In Korea, however, Nectar of Immortality combines all the scenes into one large painting. The lower part of Nectar of Immortality describes pain, disasters, and the frailty of human life in this world. This is intended to inspire people to embrace Buddhism and be delivered from their worldly existence. However, it reflects the social realities of that time as well. The scenes at the bottom of the painting of nomadic troupes of entertainers and their performances are part of this reflection. In this section, various scenes of traditional Korean performance are illustrated, such as double and single tightrope walking, Sotdaetagi (performing atop a pole), Ssangjulbaegi (one form of Sotdaetagi), tumbling, bell juggling, mask dramas, dish spinning, puppet shows, the dance of Sadang, and sword dancing. Among these performances, some, such as Sotdaetagi, Ssangjulbaegi, double tightrope walking, bell juggling and sword dancing (Punggakjaengipae), have since ceased to exist. The troupes of entertainers depicted in Nectar of Immortality are Sadangpae, Namsadangpae, Sotdaejaengipae, Choranipae, Punggakjaenipae, Gutjungpae, and circus troupes. When, after itinerant lives, these entertainers die, they become forlorn wandering spirits with no descendants to perform their memorial services. The entertainers in the performance scenes are the embodiment of souls who are the subjects of salvation through Suryukjae. Among these entertainers, Sotdaejaengipae, Sadangpae, Choranipae, Punggakjaenipae and Gutjungpae no longer exist. In sum, Nectar of Immortality provides insight into the vanished content of numerous historic forms of performance and the activities of nomadic troupes of entertainers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.45-63
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• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.