• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.95-101
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• 2018

The epidermis which is stratified by epithelial tissue renewal based on keratinocyte differentiation protects the organism from various environmental insults by forming a physical barrier. Autophagy is a mechanism which mediates lysosomal delivery and degradation of protein aggregates, damaged organelles and intracellular microorganisms. Recent reports have shown that autophagy has critical roles for proper terminal differentiation to stratum corneum via removing metabolic organelles and nuclei. However, whether increasing autophagy can activate epidermal differentiation is unknown. Here, we screened a library of natural single compounds and discovered that betaine specifically increased the LC3 positive cytosolic punctate vesicles and LC3-I to LC3-II conversion in HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, indicating increased autophagy flux. mTOR pathway, which negatively regulates autophagy, was not affected by betaine treatment, suggesting betaine-induced autophagy through an mTOR-independent pathway. Betaine-induced autophagy was also observed in primary human keratinocyte and skin equivalent. Furthermore, epidermal thickness was increased in skin equivalent under betaine treatment. Overall, our finding suggests that betaine as a novel regulator of autophagy may induce epidermal turnover and improve the skin barrier abnormality of the aged epidermis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.1 s.60
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• pp.17-22
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• 2007

In this study, we investigated the effects of Sedum sarmentosum extract on the expression of hyaluronan synthase (HAS) genes and hyaluronan (HA) production in HaCaT keratinocytes. We also assessed water content (electrical capacitance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in human skin after topical treatment with Sedum sarmentosum extract. Sedum sarmentosum extract increased expression of HAS-2 and HAS-3 genes in HaCaT cells, when assayed by real-time reverse-transcriptase polymerase chain reactions (RT-PCR). Sedum sarmentosum extract induced HA production in HaCaT cells, when determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Finally, treatment of Sedum sarmentosum extract on human skin increased the skin hydration and decreased TEWL when measured using Corneometer and Tewameter. Our study suggests that Sedum sarmentosum extract should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient, as a skin moisturizer.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.45-57
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• 1999

Melanocytes, derived from neural crest, make melanin and protect skin from the hazardous ultraviolet light. Melanocytes with dendritic process has similar morphology with neurogenic cells and share growth factor receptors such as neurotrophin receptors. Melanogenesis can be regulated by ultraviolet light and inflammation of the skin. In addition, several factors such as hormone, cytokines, arachidonic acid can affect the proliferation and melanogenesis of melanocytes. For melanogenesis, melanocytes need expression of various genes including tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2. In addition, melanin need to be transferred from melanocytes to surrounding keratinocytes. The biology of melanocytes is complex and mechanism of melanocytes proliferation and melanogenesis is still under the investigation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.27-44
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• 2003

전반적인 피부세포의 생리적 지능 자하로 인한 자연노화와 더불어, 여러 피부 스트레스 요인들이 다양하게 작용하여 발생하는 외인성노화를 방지하거나, 개선할 수 있는 항노화소재로서의 개발 가능성을 알아보기 위해, 예로부터 항염활성이 있다고 알려진 oleanolic acid(OA)를 포함한 ursolic acid(UA), betulin, betulinic acid(BA) 등의 triterpenoids가 어떻게 피부에서의 항노화 활성을 나타내는지를 알아보았다. 시험 결과, OA는 자외선에 의한 각질형성세포에서의 PGE$_2$ 생성과 섬유아세포(NHF)에 의한 matrix metalloproteinase-1(MMP-1) 분비를 억제하였다. 그리고, NHF의 procollagen 생성을 촉진하였으며, 이런 procollagen 생성촉진활성이 in vivo에서도 발현되는 것을 무모생쥐의 실험을 통해서 확인하였다. 또한 OA는 각질세포의 증식과 분화를 촉진하여 표피세포로 하여금 세라마이므와 필라그린 생성을 증가시키도록 하는 작용도 있음을 보여주었다. 더불어 실험한 UA, betulin, BA 들은 비록, betulin, BA의 경우 세포 독성이 다른 물질 들에 비해 높았고, UA가 각질세포의 분화를 오히려 억제하는 양상을 보이기는 했지만, 대부분의 기능은 OA와 유사하였다. 피부세포보호작용과 진피 기질물질에 대한 작용, 그리고, 표피의 장벽기능과 보습기능에 대해 시험한 본 연구는, 식물성분인 triterpenoids가 피부를 위한 항노화소재로서의 개발 가능성이 있음을 확인하는 계기가 되었고, 그 중에서도 OA가 보다 우수한 항노화 소재가 될 수 있음을 시사하고 있다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 2017

In this study, we investigated the effect of Petasites japonicus extract on the cytotoxicity and cytoprotective effects against cadmium for cosmetics use. We measured the protein expression of apoptosis regulatory factor (Bcl-2 and procaspase-3) after treatment of Petasites japonicus extract in the cadmium-induced keratinocyte. As a result, high cell viabilities above 98% were observed in the all treated concentrations except at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of Petasites japonicus extract in keratinocytes with cadmium-induced damages. In keratinocytes with cadmium-induced damages, Bcl-2 and procaspase-3 protein expression increased in the experimental group treated with Petasites japonicus extract. Also HaCaT cells resulted in cleavage of PARP protein at 12 h post-cadmium exposure. Western blot analysis and relative density of the bands suggested that pretreatment of cells with Petasites japonicus extract inhibited cadmium-mediated cleavage of PARP. These results suggest that Petasites japonicus extract can be used as the cosmetic ingredients for cytoprotective effect.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.856-867
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• 2023

Due to the increase in fine dust caused by environmental pollution, oxidative damage and aging of the skin are accelerated. In this study, the antioxidant, hyaluronic acid, filaggrin, MMP-1, and ROS level of selected herbal extracts were evaluated to confirm the protective efficacy of keratinocytes treated PM10. As a result, the antioxidant capacity of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH), 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid(ABTS), and FRAP assay increased in a concentration-dependent manner. Keratinocytes the group treated with 300 ㎍/ml of PM10, hyaluronic acid and filaggrin decreased by more than 50%, and increased in the group treated with extracts of Alpinia officinarum, Ulmus macrocarpa, and Ulmus macrocarpa but decreased when the extract was treated, which is evaluated as inhibiting the degradation of collagen and elastin. In addition, in the case of ROS measurement using zebrafish embryos, it was confirmed that the extract was reduced when the extract was treated 25 ㎍/ml, the intensity of fluorescence similar to the negative control was shown, confirming that the production of ROS was significantly reduced. Through this study, the selected oriental medicinal materials, Alpinia officinarum, Ulmus macrocarpa, and Ulmus macrocarpa, protect the skin from fine dust. It is thought that it can be used as an anti-aging product for skin improvement as a material that can be improved or improved.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.193-198
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• 2010

Melanin is synthesized by the melanocytes in basal layer of epidermis and distributed over all the layers of skin including corneocytes in stratum corneum, outermost layer of the epidermis. Melanin of corneocytes was stained using Fontana-Masson method and quantified by image analysis. The correlation between melanin contents and skin color value was estimated in the skin of 71 Korean women. Melanin covering area (MCA) showed good correlation with $L^*$ value and $ITA^{\circ}$ (Individual Typology Angle) (r = 0.6049, 0.6651, respectively). MCA can be used as new parameter for skin color study and has potential application for evaluating the efficacy of the skin whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.33-38
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• 2022

Ultraviolet B (UVB) damages DNA residues in skin keratinocytes. In particular, the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), a pyrimidine residue damage in DNA, is considered a representative indicator of skin photoaging. In this study, we confirmed defensive effect of Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) extract against UVB induced DNA damage. First of all, we confirmed UVB dependent amount of CPD formation in human keratinocyte cell line. UVB induced CPD was decreased by G. glabra extract by dose dependent manner. In addition, it was confirmed that the expression of mRNA of DNA damage recovery factors was increased by G. glabra extract. Consequently, through this study, it was possible to confirm the DNA protection effect of G. glabra extract in skin keratinocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.359-366
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• 2016

Exosome, a small vesicle secreted from cells, has diverse functions depending on cell origins and tissue types and plays a important role in cell viability and intercellular communication. Recently, many researchers have demonstrated the use of exosomes for the treatment of cancers and immune diseases, and the development of diagnostic biomarker. However, the secretion mechanism of exosome from skin cell and its physiological functions in skin remain unclear. Thus, this study aimed to explore whether keratinocyte-derived exosome affects proliferation and migration in HaCaTs. Exosomes were isolated from HaCaTs by ExoQuick-TC and then boiled or unbolied. Boiled and unboiled exosome induced proliferation in HaCaTs in a dose-dependant manner ($0.1{\sim}20{\mu}g/mL$), respectively. Boiled and unboiled exosome at concentration of $20{\mu}g/mL$ increased proliferation level in HaCaTs by $186.96{\pm}3.87%$ and $193.48{\pm}10.48%$ compared with control group. Unboiled exosome stimulated migration in HaCaTs in a dose-dependent manner ($0.1{\sim}20{\mu}g/mL$), which reached a maxium at concentration of $20{\mu}g/mL$ ($179.39{\pm}4.89%$ of control), but boiled exosome did not affect HaCaT migration. In addition, unboiled exosome ($0.1{\sim}20{\mu}g/mL$) dose-dependently stimulated sprout outgrowth in HaCats. These results demonstrate that in exosome from HaCaTs, heat-stable components such as lipid may induce HaCaT proliferation and heat-unstable components such as protein may stimulate migration and sprout outgrowth in HaCaTs, thereby leading to reepithelialization and skin-wound healing activities. It is concluded that exosomes from HaCaTs may be used as cosmetic materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2023

We validated the physiological activity of Syzygium claviflorum (Roxb.) Wall. ex A.M. Cowan & Cowan (S. claviflorum) extracts (leaves, stems, fruits, and flowers) as a cosmetic ingredient. Firstly, S. claviflorum extracts removed over 80% of free radicals at various concentrations in antioxidant experiments using the DPPH and ABTS assay. In cytotoxicity experiments using human epidermal keratinocytes, S. claviflorum extracts showed low cytotoxicity. In addition, S. claviflorum extracts significantly increased the expression of keratin (KRT)1, KRT2, KRT9, KRT10, which are differentiation markers of keratinocytes, as well as genes involved in the maintenance of skin barrier function, including involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR), filaggrin (FLG), and claudin1 (CLDN1). In particular, the expression of FLG protein, inhibited by interleukin (IL)-4/IL-13 in atopic dermatitis, was restored by S. claviflorum extracts in in vitro experiments. Therefore, S. claviflorum extracts with excellent antioxidant efficacy and skin barrier improvement function will be useful materials for the development of future atopic dermatitis treatments and cosmetics.