• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권9호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2011

The number of Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes that have been discovered is small but includes various kinds of coat. These coats have become important clues when trying to determine styles of coat that were present in the mid-17he composition of the costumes found were various, including unlined, lined, padded and quilted variations. Unlined clothes were sewed using broad-stitching, hemming, half backstitching, and backstitching. The unique sewing style of the 17th century was shown in Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes. Seams on the back of one coat were not connected but rather sewed as a whole because of the width of the cloth. There was a more elaborate sewing style on lined clothes than on unlined clothes, alongside the use of selvage on the reverse of the costumes, marking the face not by using other clothes, but by the sewing line. Because of their to kit types, the width of the sleeves, the presence of a Cheolrik string, the ratio of the upper jacket to the bottom skirt, and the width between the armpits and bottom hems in Jungchimak, Ryu Ji Kyung's clothes can be used as exemplary models of mid-17th century clothing.

• 한국도서관정보학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.363-373
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• 2007

설화지는 16세기 이전부터 19세기 이후까지 초조된 종이로서, 하얗고 아름다운 전통 우리나라 종이의 특성을 지니고 있는 종이이다. 원산지는 평강(平康)이며, 17세기 이후 남원 순창, 진주 등지에서도 초조되었다. 원료는 뽕나무로서, 겨울철에 눈을 이용하여 표백하고(설쇄) 초조하였다. 서화용이나 인쇄용지로 사용되었으며, 궁중에서 혹은 사신의 예물로 사용된 고급품이었다.

• 영미문화
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.81-106
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• 2017

Using recently emerging quantitative methods, this article provides a comparative study of the diachronic changes in the narrations of novel, history, and science from the early 18th-century to the 20th-century. To trace the narrative changes in different genres, this article discusses how text-mining methodology can be introduced in literary studies. We compared the traces of narrative in three genres—novel, history, and science—as a pilot study, with the three major grammatical elements of narrative: pronoun, subordinating conjunction, and action verbs in past tense. The results of data-mining show that the use of pronoun and action verb has increased in the genre of novel toward the $20^{th}$ century, while history and science has developed less story-like writing styles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• 대한지리학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.221-239
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• 2010

종족촌락이 일정한 시기에 전국적으로 일반화되었다는 사실은 이것이 등장했던 당시의 사회적 상황을 반영한 결과물입을 의미한다. 따라서 당시의 사회적 배경, 특히 지배집단으로서 사대부계급의 정치적 입장의 변화 및 강력한 혈연 공동제의 물적 기반이 되었던 토지제도와의 관련성 속에서 종족촌락의 발생과 발달을 살펴보는 것은 종족촌락을 이해하는 한가지 방법이 될 수 있다. 정치적 갈등이 지속되면서 사대부들은 학연, 지연뿐만 아니라 혈연을 중요한 정치적 배경으로 활용하였으며, 사적 토지 소유를 확대함으로써 종족촌락의 형성과 확대를 위한 물적 토대를 확보했기 때문이다. 근기권(近畿圈)의 종족촌락들은 한양에 근거를 두고 있던 유력 가문들의 경제적 근거로 활용되었으며 이러한 근거를 확보해 가는 과정에서 정치권력이 중요한 배경으로 작용하였다. 정치적 갈등으로 오산리에 입향한 영산신씨 가문은 사적 토지 소유와 가문 출신의 현달한 관료를 배경으로 17세기 후반에 이르러 안정된 종족촌락으로 발달하였다.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1102-1118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.146-165
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• 2022

이 연구는 2021년 경북 유형문화재 <상주 전식 조복 및 공예품 일괄>로 지정된 유물 중 전식(全湜, 1563~1642)의 조복 구성물인 3점(의·상·대대)의 유물을 17~18세기 5건(신경유, 권우, 화산군 이연, 밀창군 이직, 이익정)의 출토 조복 구성물과 문헌자료를 비교하면서 유물의 조형적 특징과 제도와의 차이점을 밝히고자 함에 목적을 두었다. 전식의 조복 구성물 3점은 색상을 확인할 수 있는 최고(最古)의 조복 유물이라는 점에서 사료적 가치가 크다. 붉은 색 능직물로 제작한 상의(上衣)는 아쉽게도 가선이 소실된 상태이지만 흔적이 남아 있는 부분에 대해 기록이나 초상화 등의 자료에 근거하여 흑색 가선[黑緣]을 추측할 수 있었다. 그리고 흑선과 바탕 옷감 사이에 끼우는 흰 장식선은 아직 사용되지 않았음을 확인하였다. 하상(下裳)은 전3폭 후4폭 중 전3폭과 후1폭만 남은 상태이다. 그러나 후4폭의 형태를 유추할 수는 있었다. 주름 흔적으로 볼 때 허리 부분에만 주름을 잡았음을 알 수 있었다. 18세기의 밀창군, 이익정 묘 조복 상은 허리말기에 간격을 두고 연결되어 있으나 신경유, 권우, 화산군 이연 묘 조복 상 등 17세기 조복 상은 전상 아래로 후상이 겹쳐 연결되어 있는 것으로 볼 때 전식의 조복 상 역시 전상 아래에 5cm 전후로 후상을 겹쳐 연결하였을 것으로 추정할 수 있었다. 화산군 이연(李渷, 1647~1702) 이후 흑선과 바탕과의 사이에 백색 장식선을 끼운 뒤 허리부분에서 밑단까지 주름을 잡은 형태였다. 대대는(大帶)는 '경(冂)' 모양인데 소색(素色)의 주(紬)에 녹색 문사(紋紗) 선을 둘러 긴 띠를 만든 후 모서리를 접어 요(腰)와 신(紳)을 만들었다. 18세기 밀창군과 이익정, 정휘량의 조복본 초상화에서 볼 수 있는 대대의 색상과 일치하였다. 18세기 초 화산군 이연 묘 대대 이후는 요와 신 부분을 따로 재단하여 이은 형태였으나 전식의 대대를 포함한 17세기 신경유 묘, 권우 묘의 대대는 긴 띠를 접어 요와 신을 만들었음을 알 수 있었다. 그리고 허리에 매기 위해 양 끝에 가는 끈을 달았다. 전식의 조복 유물은 색상이나 형태면에서 17세기 조복제도를 구체적으로 반영한 것으로 평가할 수 있으며 『국조오례의 서례』·『경국대전』조복제도의간략하거나부정확한기록을보완해주는사료로서의중요한가치를지니고있다고하겠다.