• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.90-106
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• 2013

This study investigated the development of eyeglasses and design transition in materials and types through literature survey. The scope of this study on the basis of the 15th century, for this study survey reaches from the 15th century to modern. The result of this study were as follows. Real magnifying glasses was first mentioned by the Arab physicist al-Hazen who was famous of his treatise on optics. The oldest documents which explicitly refer to the art of making lenses for eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were the Venetian artisans of 1300. In the 15th century someone thought to remedy the unstability of glasses by securing the bridge on the forehead. But it was only in the 17th century that someone contrived to stabilize the frame by strapping it on the face by means of fine cords that reached behind the ears. Eventually in the early years of the 18th century the English optician Edward Scarlett invented the rigid earpieces which solved once and for all the problem of holding the eyeglasses firmly in place. In the 19th century, eyeglasses' fashion were monocle and pince-nez. In the 20th century, various lenses and frames were appeared. Therefore eyeglasses to correct defective sight, sun-glasses, as well as a most succesful item among modern fashion accessories.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.133-153
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• 2009

Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.33-48
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• 2001

This study is on the sewing construction of the 17th century clothing through the Excavated Costumes in O-chang, ChungBuk in 1998. The followings are the results of this study. There are various sewing constructions in this excavates costume : a running stitch.a back stitch.a half back stitch.a french seam.a gobsol(korean traditional seam sewing). We can see that the sewing construction of the 17th century-clothing depends on construction styles : one layer, two layers, clothing padded with cotton(include quilt). We can see that sewing construction in the one taler clothing consisted of a running stitch, a french seam, a gobsol seam. In the two layer clothing the construction included a running stitch and half back stitch. a running switch and a decorated top stitch(3stitch) were used in the clothing padded with cotton. We can see that the sewing construction enhanced the function of keeping the shape of clothing and the raw edges. We can see that the shape of clothing is important in presentation of aesthetic of the clothing. Such a kind of sewing construction lasted from the early Chosen Dynasty through the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.98-107
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• 2007

This study examines the men's coats in the early $17^{th}$ century through the excavated costumes of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$)'s tomb. Kim, Hwak was a literary man with a high government position. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, in the early $17^{th}$ century, there were many changes with the kinds and form of men's coats. From Kim, Hwak's tomb, there excavated 8 kinds of coats; Sim-ui, Dan-ryung, Jik-ryung, Cheol-rik, Do-po, Chang-ui, Joong-chi-mack, So-chang-ui, and they are 27 items. The characteristics of $17^{th}$ century costumes are well seen from these coats. Up to that period, Cheol-rik was worn as ordinary clothes, but from Kim, Hwak's tomb, there are 5 pieces of Do-po, and 15 pieces of Joong-chi-mack. This tells us that these items were widely worn after the $mid-17^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.2 no.2 s.4
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• pp.50-65
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• 1993

Most of the studies on Yangban Houses dealt with the existing houses which were constructed, in most part, after the 17th century. Therefore it is important to identify the actual process of change from before the 17th century which is critical in understanding the history of residential architecture of the Chosun Dynasty. This study aims to clarify that the architectural condition after the 17th century is the result of the major change in sound the 16th century, and the prime motivation of that change was initiated by the family ritual which become very important social and idealogical base of the change. To be able to practice the family ritual, the spatial arrangement had to be changed, Man's quarter had to be enlarged, which a stone-floored room was added on one side of the centural wooden floor of the lady's quarter. Also, family shrine was erected on eastern side of the site. Thus, unless the major change in the 16th century, which was caused by the practice of family ritual, is understood, the study of historical background of Yangban houses can never be complete.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• Journal of Haehwa Medicine
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 2011

21th century is a era of new pandemic. We are facing a new challenge and need a new way of approach. But eastern medicine and western medicine is clinging to their own way and have no intention to hear other one's opinion. Before the invention of the vaccination, smallpox has always been a major problem. Intellectuals in every country tried their best to find the treatment for the smallpox, and for Europian, didn't hesitate to borrow some knowledge of the pagon. Romans adopted the Galens concept, running away from the epidemic lesion. Christianity made smallpox Saints, and later adopted Razes heat therapy. But in the 17th century, these methods didn't turn out well, so they needed a new way of approach. By this movement, they had adopted the Chinese inoculation concept and invented a vaccination, By studying the effort of the Europian intellectuals who had tried their best to find the treatment for the smallpox until 17th century, we might get a glimps of wisdom which they had shown us. By this paper we can feel the passion to learn new techniques and their open mind and courage, which might be also needed in the 21th century, era of new pandemic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.145-154
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• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.