• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.570-581
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the acceptance and interpretation of pop musician's image in the Korean youth subculture, Fan Costume play(Fancos). Fancos subculture took the most active attitude to accepts of the pop musician's image and therefore was assumed to have various and differential acceptance aspects. The ethnographic method was used in order to approach more closely from their point of view. The cultural activity of Fancos subculture was imitation and reappearance of pop musician's appearance. Actually Fancos is a kind of fan-culture which idolized Korean pop music star. The acceptance of musician's appearance in Fancos is found out in two aspects. One is passive acceptance aspects that inforces conformity of star fashion and follows servilely ideal body image which promoted by cultural industry. The other is unique acceptance aspects that Fancos members interpret the musician's image in their own way. Those members experience pleasure through their own meaning. And homology of their appearance makes a distinction between of themselves from other youth and intensifies their group identity. As above analyzed, Fancos subculture has differential acceptance of pop music star's image comparing to other youth and even their stylistic appearance reflects not only their fandom but also their own meaning. Consequently, pop musician's image as a popular cultural text is accepted not equal to all populace but dissimilar along with contexts and trails of the acceptance group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.69-84
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• 1986

The objective of this Paper was to identify the relationship between the fine arts, pop art and fashion in relation to its qualities, motifs, and techniques of graffiti and collage. The data of this study were collected from fashion magazines such as French Vogue and American Vogue from 1962 through 1970 and Elle from 1980, post cards and reports of costume exhibition in Victoria & Albert museum in London, and newspaper accounts and magazine accounts. The qualities of pop art were characterized as 1) Popular (designed for mass audience), 2) transient (short term solution), 3) expendable (easily forgotten), 4) low cost, 5) mass produced, 6) young (aimed at youth), 7) witty, 8) sexy and erotic, ana 9) big business. Pop art was rooted in urban environment. According to analysis of the data for this paper, these special aspects of that environment reflected on fashion in the 60's. Mary Quant, Zandra Rhodes, Y.S.L., Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges in the 60's and Castelbajac and Sprouse in the 80's showed Pop art dresses, mods fashion inspired by pop artists such as Hamilton, Donaldson, Allen Jones, Jasper Jones, Andy Wahol, and Keith Haring. New erotism of fashion was Produced by Y.S.L.'s see-through blouse, Courreges'a hipster pants, and Gernreich's bikinis which revealed the navel and the breast. T-shirts and dresses ornamented with Pop idols' faces, Pop graffitic motifs, and slogans, as a resistant to society, were begun to popular.

• 패션정보와 기술
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• 제13권
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• pp.34-41
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• 2016

• 패션정보와 기술
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• 제13권
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• pp.51-59
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• 2016

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.545-558
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• 2021

This research analyzed the Chinese style design embodied in the collections of the new generation of fashion designers shown during the Shanghai Fashion Week to improve the understanding of Chinese style and the modernization of Chinese design. The research questions were 1) studying the development of the Chinese fashion industry chronologically and investing young designers' current situation, 2) investigating young designers' awareness of Chinese style and analyzing Chinese style design in collections. A literature and case study were conducted as the research method. The literature study focused on the books about the Chinese fashion industry and history, newspaper, articles, and so on. The case study was conducted among 63 Chinese style collections in 2016-2020 SFW by investigating fashion magazine reviews, articles, and so on. The findings are as follows: 1) Young Chinese fashion designers' awareness of Chinese style has three characteristics; the nonmaterial tendency from decreasing stereotyped images, combination of traditional culture and local youth culture, and commercialization with trends. 2) Chinese elements, including natural, character, and cultural elements were predominantly used in the concept, pattern, and shape. Nonmaterial characteristics were identified in concept, cultural combination characteristics in concept, shape, color, material, and pattern, and trend commercialization in shape, color, and pattern. In conclusion, Chinese young fashion designers had strong national consciousness and new awareness of Chinese style fashion in decreasing the stereotyped images of China. Thus, they used more varied expressions. Meanwhile, they faced difficulties in expressing nonmaterial Chinese elements by balancing them with Chinese style and globalization.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.92-104
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• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.107-120
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the differences in the clothing image perception of elderly women according to the clothing types, the clothing colors, the perceiver's sex-role attitude, and gender. Result of factor analysis revealed that the dimensions of clothing image perception was classified into four categories: evaluation, youth, warmth, and activity. Perceiver's sex-role attitude and gender gave a significant influence on the perception of evaluation factor. Youth factor had an interaction effect on the clothing types, clothing colors, and sex-role attitudes. The persons with a conservative sex-role attitude perceived the clothing image of warm color suits as younger than the one of cold colors. The clothing image of a warm colored Hanbok (Korean traditional dress) was perceived milder than a cold one, but there were no difference in suits. Bright color suits make the wearer look younger, and cold color suits make the wearer look active. The clothing color had greater influences on the warmth and the evaluation factor than clothing types. Persons who have a conservative sex-role attitude perceived the differences according to clothing types and colors in a traditional way. It could be certified that perceiver's sex-role attitude was one of the variables influencing his/her perception in social interaction.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2004

This study focuses on the sportism expressed in the modern fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, youth culture and postmodernism. Designers gazing into the future are inspired by the details and functionality of clothing for snow boarding, skiing, rock-climbing and fitness. While the sportswear is the term whith stemmed from the need for functionally in sports, the Sportism is the style inspired by the formative elements, that is, the details, the silhouette, and the colors of the sportswear. New technologies for sports, the powerful influence of youthful culture, and the celebritizations of the sports stars made the sports look more popular. It can be categorized into three aesthetic values, i.e., the functional sportism, the street sportism, and the futuristic sportism. The functional sportism is expressed with the details of function, simplicity, and no useless ornament, the street sportism with fun, androgynous and unisex mode and the image of hip-hop look and traditional look, the futuristic sportism with new high tech fabrics and cyber style. The characters of these are a sence of unisex, sensualness, ostentation, renovation.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.96-113
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• 2006

Romanticism factors in fashion since the 1990s is more about feminine softness and grace, and suggests the image of a fantastic cute and lovable girl with dreams. This study examined romanticism in literature focusing on the 19th century, which is considered the time of romanticism, and examined romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s based on the newly found characteristics of romanticism. Romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s can be divided into three categories of individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism, romanticism with a desire to aspire, and resistance inclined romanticism. First, individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism is the type that places importance on expression of emotions based on the values on individuals, and was expressed as either romanticism with sexual charm or as romanticism with an extremely feminine taste. Second, romanticism with a desire to aspire was the most prominent romanticism fashion type in men's fashion since the 1990s and it can be divided into four categories of aspiration of nature and time, aspiration of the past and romanticism, aspiration of childhood and aspiration of new exotic cultures. Third, resistance inclined romanticism was expressed as romanticism that is inclined to resist against materialism and romanticism that resists against youth culture.