• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1161-1169
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• 1999

This research was aimed to identify the artifact type and their characteristics of the textile related materials excavated from Koryo Dynasty tombs of Hyungok-ni Danyang. Microscopy solubility test energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy(EDS) and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) fabric density test were used for the identification and when necessary standard samples were made in order to compare its characteristics with hose of the original artifact, the result indicated that the artifacts included both textile and paper. Artifacts from Burial 14 were comprised of textile fragments FT-IR and the solubility test conducted on the artifact indicated that the textiles were made with ramie woven with plain weave technique in a fairly loose fabric density. Rest of the artifacts were all comprised of paper.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.23-38
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop and evaluate working clothes for shipbuilding workers who work in one of the poorest work environments among national strategic industries that are playing pivotal roles for the Korean economy. For the study method, requirements collected through interviews and field surveys were incorporated to directly weave the fabrics for working clothes. The colors were then selected and the woven fabrics were dyed with the selected colors. Using these, the designs of working clothes were planned from the construction and design aspects and four winter clothes and four spring and fall clothes were produced. Afterwards, the workers dressed in these clothes and workers and managers evaluated them in terms of appearance, color satisfaction, design satisfaction, and safety mind harmony on a five point scale. This study found that the new working clothes offered better functionality, design, and safety compared to existing working clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.189-196
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to find out the purchasing practices and consumer's needs for pet dog apparel to provide useful information for the manufacture of pet dog's apparel. Data were obtained from 203 consumers who have purchased dog apparel(55 male, 148 female). 57.9% of them were 20-30 years old, 27.9% were living in houses, 54.3% were apartment residents. The kinds of dog included were Shihtzu, Martise, and Yorkshireterrier, and 2/3 of the respondents own a single dog, the remainder have at least two dogs. The most important factor to consider when purchasing dog apparel was size, followed by comfort, design, and materials in that order, Most of the apparel was purchased with convenience as the primary consideration, and the average price was 10-30 thousands won, and the items were purchased at pet beauty shops or specialty shops. For materials, it showed that the majority preferred cotton or a cotton mixture which was woven or woven with knit. The survey revealed that the main purposes for the apparel were, in order, to protect the dog from cold weather and direct sunlight, to be good looks and to memorialize a special day. Consumers put the apparel on their dogs 1-3 times per week, on average, and also when they went out for a walk. They were satisfied with the design, color and quality of the material now on the market, but unsatisfied with size and price. They have a preference for cute, but simple designs and a functional style. The respondents wanted to have material that was mild or neutral, stain-resistant, and something that would repel insects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.142-156
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• 2016

Convergence of IT devices and fashion is enabling the industry to take fully different approaches in various areas including product planning, fabric selecting, distributing, and marketing. At the same time, it also transforms the definition of clothing itself. Convergence of IT technologies in the realm of fashion and textiles industries can create a powerful synergy through connection digital devices, such as mobile phone. In this context, this study attempts to suggest how IT technology can be efficiently harnessed through the usage of mobile devices in the planning stage of fashion materials, where the initial production plan of a clothing item is mapped out. This study ultimately aims to enhance the effectiveness of databases on fashion material information by using mobile devices to utilize NFC, an RFID technology having as much revolutionary power as Internet - which can be the convergence between IT and fashion across the software dimensions. To pursue this research, data on fashion material information regarding 200 woven fabric specimens were provided by textile companies. The information includes elements such as its composition, weight, width, yarn, density and sales report. These pieces of information were organized into a database. Drawing on this data, Android-based applications that allow smart phones to read off fabric information from NFC tags were developed for this study using two methods. The system works as follows: 1. NFC tag stickers are attached onto the hangers where 200 fabric samples are hanging. 2. The NFC tag stickers are tagged, or read off from a smart phone that support NFC functions. 3. Upon tagging, the Smart phone swiftly displays all information available on its screen - not only the aforementioned six elements, but also the image of the clothing item from the fabric in its finalized product form, and the video of the model wearing the item - for convenient view. The method harbors immense potential for the fashion industry in general, and will also be useful in those fields inside the industry that harness NFC technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.154-164
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.699-710
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• 2006

The objective of this study was to identify the texture-related components of woven fabrics and to develop a multidimensional perceptual structure map to represent the tactile textures. Eighty subjects in clothing and tektite industries were selected for multivariate data on each fabric of 30 using the questionnaire with 9 pointed semantic differential scales of 20 texture-related adjectives. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, hierarchical cluster analysis, and multidimensional scaling(MDS) using SPSS statistical package. The results showed that the five factors were selected and composed of density/warmth-coolness, stiffness, extensibility, drapeability, and surface/slipperiness. As a result of hierarchical cluster analysis, 30 fabrics were grouped by four clusters; each cluster was named with density/warmth-coolness, surface/slipperiness, stiffness, and extensibility, respectively. By MDS, three dimensions of tactile texture were obtained and a 3-dimensional perceptual structure map was suggested. The three dimensions were named as surface/slipperiness, extensibility, and stiffness. We proposed a positioning perceptual map of fabrics related to texture naming system(TNS). To classify the textural features of the woven fabrics, hierarchical cluster analysis containing all the data variations, even though it includes the errors, may be more desirable than texture-related multidimensional data analysis based on factor loading values in respect of the effective variables reduction without losing the critical variations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.