• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.106-110
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• 2005

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the projectile and air-jet looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of projectile and air-jet looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.772-777
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• 2004

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weaving weft tensions on the 3 types of rapier looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of 3 types of rapier looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.3_4
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• pp.452-459
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of reference fabric for the tactile sensation of worsted fabrics. As specimens, 32 worsted fabrics for spring/fall suits were selected. A series of subjective evaluation for roughness, harshness, coarseness, smoothness, warmth, bulkiness and softness were performed with 20 trained panels. The panels were selected by the test of consistency and trained for 3 weeks to enhance the reproducibility and consistency. Subjective evaluation was performed using 9 points Semantic Differential Scales with and without reference fabric. Results showed that the sensations were very similar between the results for the test of with or without reference. However the standard deviations of ratings for the with-reference were much less than that of without-reference which means the use of reference fabric can reduce the subjective error or can reduce the number of panels to test.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.299-306
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze physical properties of foreign famous worsted fabrics to realize improvements in qualities of the domestic men's worsted fabrics and to make an comparison between foreign worsted fabrics and domestic ones. For this purpose, this study carries out both objective and subjective fabric hand measurements using KES-FB system and Blind field test, to evaluate physical properties of worsted fabrics and finally is aiming to make an comparison between the results from the two measurements for enhancing the quality of the domestic worsted fabrics using the 14 specimens of 7 types as worsted fabrics manufactured in Italy, UK and Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.807-815
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• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

This paper surveys basic research for data base system of the fabric structural design. For this purpose, the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics are analysed and discussed with cover factors suggested by Prof. Walz and Picanol company. And the relationship between weave density coefficients and cover factors of the worsted and cotton woven fabrics was analysed and discussed with weave pattern and yarn count. Finally, the process shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes according to the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics were analysed and discussed as a preliminary study for the data base system of the fabric structural design. As a result, the density coefficients, K values of the worsted and cotton fabrics were ranged from 600 to 1000, and the weave density coefficients of those fabrics are ranged from 0.4 to 0.8 and from 0.2 to 1.0, respectively. The finishing shrinkages for the worsted fabrics are ranged from 2% to 10%, and for cotton fabrics, it was from 2% to 20%. The weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics could be distributed according to the looms, weave pattern and weaving and finishing shrinkages as a concept of the data base for the fabric structural design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.35-46
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• 1989

Experiments described in which cotton fabrics at different stages of chemical processing were abraded to different extents on a Stoll Abrasion Tester with three different abradants, namely, a worsted fabric, flax fabric and silicon carbide paper. The four different plain-weave cotton fabrics selected were 1) desized, 2) scoured and bleached, 3) mercerized, 4) resin-treated. The surface abrasive damages of treated fabrics were observed by SAM, and load-elongation percent retentions of abraded samples were measured by Instrong Tester. The result were as follows: 1. The maximum percent retention of load-elongation with three different abradants was exhibited by the scoured and bleached fabrics and the minimum by the resin finished fabric. 2. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by flax, worsted fabric abradants for 900 rubs showed a large number of criss-crossing stray fibers in fabric structure. It may be the molecular adhesion for frictional resistance to be explained. 3. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by silicone carbide abradants showed the form of busing or mashing fibers in fabric structure. The above might be on the basis of the ploughing theory.