• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.123-135
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• 2014

This study classifies types of fashion victims and identifies an internal value system that works for their fashion selection. This study reviewed the definition of 'fashion victim' by tracing similar terms such as fashion terrorist, fashion loser, and worst dresser. We classified fashion styles of fashion victims into four types based on an analysis of articles that pertained to Korean celebrities' fashion and image data. The first type is the fashion style of those who dress without any consideration of body shape. The second type is the style for those who have little consideration in regards to personal image. The third type is the style of those who choose a fashion with excessive decoration. The fourth type is the style for those who use too many fashion items at the same time. Based on a consistent analysis of fashion styles, this study identified the internal value system believed to be working in fashion victims' fashion selection. This study presents three internal value system characteristics. The first is the fetishism that is revealed when fashion victims wear expensive clothes or fashion items that are believed to reveal their personal identity and social status. The second is the blindness which becomes apparent when they follow a fashion in vogue indiscriminately without considering a personal image or body shape. The third is an excessiveness shown when individuals select clothes with too many beads or feathers that are decorative and rich in volume.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2011

This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.806-814
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• 2011

A solar jacket, which utilizes solar energy for generating electricity, is an example of clothing developed by the fusion of multiple technologies; such fusion of technologies can lead to further developments in the clothing industry and other industries in general. Many research institutes and garment manufacturing companies in Europe and America are developing solar garments; various solar-based products manufactured using solar cells, photovoltaic batteries, etc. are being sold at high prices. The purpose of this study was to investigate the development status of solar garments and their application for generating photovoltaic energy; the study also identified the type of design and upper body clothing preferred by Korean in their early 20s. The survey participants were 188 university students aged between 20 and 25. The design of the proposed six types of solar clothing was evaluated and rated; they were then ranked on the basis of the ratings. A survey on the management of solar garments was conducted, and ratings were assigned according to a 5-point Likert scale, with 5 indicating the strong affirmation. The survey results showed that among the six types of clothing, protective clothing (50%) and sportswear (22%) were more preferable than the others (working clothes (16%), casual clothes (3%), everyday wear(6%), and suits(1%)). Among the six proposed designs, the jumper design (22%) and jean jacket design (21%) were preferred over the others (casual jacket (19%), casual jacket I (15%), classic suit (14%), and climbing jacket (9%)). Factorial analysis of the management of solar garments revealed that the most important factors were the properties of the solar cell and time required for battery charging, and the second important factors were clothing weight and comfort.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2021

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many people started working from home while avoiding unnecessary going-outs. As the 'stay-at-home life' becomes standard daily life, the pajamas market is absorbing young consumers, especially targeting Generation MZ, by using one-mile fashion that breaks down the boundary with everyday clothes. Also, owing to the demand for environmentally-friendly textiles, based on the strengthened environmental regulations, the development of textiles considering the environment is expanding. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop fashion pajamas using environmentally-friendly textiles targeting Generation MZ. After theoretically considering the current status of recycled PETs and the pajama market by referring to preceding research, relevant books, and Internet data, this study performed the process setting up the design concepts, developing textiles, developing textile designs, and developing pajamas designs. As a result, this study wove two kinds of mixed textiles using recycled PETs and silk with the concept of 'Going out pajamas', and designed a total four patterns to be applied to those textiles, then digitally printed them. Using the developed textiles, this study produced a total four kinds of pajamas that were practical, trendy, and also good to be used as clothes for going-out. The consumers who are exhausted from the limited environment of the COVID-19 pandemic, are requesting comfortable and trendy in & out door fashion. For this reason, the results of this study are significant in the aspect of suggesting the new-normal fashion trend for pajamas designs.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.170-183
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of different images of movie costume centering on the actresses. The perfect examples are the characters from the movie "The Devil Wears Prada", in which the film is about the fashion leaders of the world. This study consists of visual data as well as images including some scenes from the movie. The sources were collected from relative media, articles in journals, internet sites relating to the movies and photos and we have analyzed differentiated each of the character's wardrobes and its characteristics appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. First, the characteristic image of Andy, the main character (Anne Hathaway) in the movie changed dramatically. Andy'swardrobe is focused on the character's makeover in the movie as the character changes from a slob dresser to an assistant of the editor-in-chief of the number one fashion magazine in the world. Each scene definitely shows different styles of the latest premier designers' clothes and accessories. On the other hand, Miranda Priestly appears as the fashion leader and icon throughout the whole movie. Her career look in each scene was very chic and sophisticated in the office while her party dresses were sexy and glamorous in the movie where she was at many of the promotion parties and events. The second analysis of characteristic images of movie costumes is comparing the styles of Andy, Miranda and Emily(the other assistant of Miranda). Andy's wardrobe was divided Into two situations-before working for the magazine and while working for Miranda. As Andy's wardrobe began to upscale, the clothing images of Emily and Miranda became less fashionable. As a result of this study, the movie costumes played a vital role in expressing the changes and differentiating each character's images.

• 한국가스학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.20-24
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• 2000

한국의 Liquid Petroleum Gas 충전소에 있어서 안전관리자의 정전기에 대한 안전 의식을 설문 조사했다. 또한, 위험요소로 판단된 일반 작업복과 순면 작업복의 정전기에 의한 화재 폭발 위험성을 평가했다. 설문 조사에 의하면, 충전소에서는 정전기 예방 측면의 효율적인 교육 및 인식 부족으로 인해 무분별한 작업복을 착용하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 특히 현재 착용하고 있는 일반 작업복의 경우, 실험에 의한 대전 전하량이 동복 1.79$\mu$C 춘추복 1.44$\mu$C, 하복 1.02$\mu$C로 한국공업규격 (KS K-7807) 에서 정전기 재해 위험 가능성에 대해 언급한 0.60$\mu$C를 크게 상회하여 위험성이 존재했다. 반면. 순면 작업복의 경우는 대전량이 0.52$\mu$C에서 0.42$\mu$C의 범위로 안전한 것으로 나타났다. 따라서, 향후 시각적, 체험적 교육을 병행한 정전기 교육의 질적 향상이 요구되며, 정전기에 의한 재해를 방지하기 위해 착용하는 작업복에 대한 관련 기술 기준의 제정이 요구된다.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.161-182
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• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.911-923
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• 1995

The zone of expansion and contraction of arm surfaces was analyzed, the correlation between arm surface changes was studied, and ergonomic sleeve designs were presented in which the consideration of body surface changes is emphasized. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. As a sleeve drafting method, detailed measures should be applied on the base of the sensitivity of body surface changes. The range of arm surface changes can be divided into three zones : concentrated expansion zone, zone of little change, and contraction part. The maximum expansion zone was the upper part of elbow. 2. The correlations were higher in lengths than in circumferences. Arm lengths were mainly correlated with upper arms. The more detailed the arm surface was, the lower the correlations between surface changes were. So there was not a lot of relation between segment changes. Tendency of body surface changes depended on the anatomical structure of the upper extremity and the movements of arm muscles. 3. As an application of measures and ease, ergonomic sleeve designs weve presented in which arm surface changes were considered. Ergonomic sleeve designs are recommended for working clothes and sports wear.