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The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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An Exploratory Study on Female Caregivers' Experiences of Aggression by Older Residents in Nursing Homes (노인요양시설 입소노인에 의한 여성요양보호사의 폭력 경험에 대한 탐색적 연구)

  • Yoo, Seong Ho;Kim, Bo Kyung;Moon, Yu Jin;Shim, Il Kwang;Cho, Hee Ju
    • 한국노년학
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    • v.36 no.4
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    • pp.1037-1058
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    • 2016
  • This study aims to investigate the female caregivers'experiences of aggression by nursing home residents, and to identify the policy strategies for violence prevention referred by the female caregivers. A total of 121 female caregivers with more than 6 months of working experiences had participated in this study. Of these, 56.2% had experienced verbal aggression, 51.2% physical aggression, and 27.3% sexual aggression, which reveals that client violence toward caregivers in nursing homes was at an alarming level. Although, physical and verbal violences were mostly caused unintentionally, about a half of the sexual aggression were caused deliberately. Aggression occurred the most when caregivers were providing the following services: changing the diapers or clothes, giving a bath, and serving meals. It was found that 'hitting' was the most common form of physical aggression and it was 'swearing' and 'touching or physical contacting' in the case of verbal and sexual aggression, respectively. Though there was a difference depending on the type of aggression, the most frequent reactions against client violence were to start a conversation or calm down the nursing home residents, and to leave the scene or ignore the incident. This means that the caregivers are coping very passively through resolving the aggressions by themselves, or overlooking the situation. The most frequently recommended strategy to prevent resident aggression was to provide educational programs on violence prevention to nursing home residents and caregivers(42.7%). Compared to the previous studies, this study indicates some differentiated strategies to prevent violence in nursing homes, which include hiring male caregivers, assuring directors to pay closer attention toward caregivers, using refined language between caregivers and residents, and keeping caregivers to wear appropriate clothes. Based on the study results, some policy recommendations on the prevention of client violence in nursing homes were suggested.

A Study on the National Competency Standards of Fashion Accessories Production (패션소품생산 분야의 국가직무능력표준(NCS) 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Suh, Seung-Hee;Lee, Shin-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.1
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    • pp.46-60
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    • 2015
  • This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.

A Study on Measures to Improve Smoke Control Performance in Case of Fire in a Clean room as an LCD Manufacturing Process (LCD 제조공정 클린룸의 화재시 CFD를 이용한 제연성능 개선대책에 관한 연구)

  • Son, Bong-Sei;Jang, Chan-Hee
    • Fire Science and Engineering
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    • v.26 no.5
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    • pp.41-47
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    • 2012
  • As a core process in the manufacture of state-of-the-art industrial technologies such as semiconductor and LCD, a clean room is the most important process which can affect the performance and quality of products drastically. Nevertheless, scientific research on comprehensive safety measures from a fire protection standpoint is not being carried out in Korea. This study aims to derive measures to improve smoke control systems by identifying performance and problems of smoke systems installed in clean rooms as an LCD manufacturing process and analyzing fire and evacuation simulations considering several scenarios. As a result of analysis of fires and smoke in a clean roomas an LCD manufacturing process, it is found to be necessary to stop air handling units through interlocking in case of a fire and exhaust smoke out of the room through the top of FAB in consideration of buoyancy of smoke. It is also found to be necessary to install quick response sprinkler heads and accessories to accelerate the response time, because the heat-accumulating performance of sprinkler heads decreases in this application. Despite its low density of dwelling due to the automation process, clean room is characterized by an array of complex production equipment and working environment requiring dustproof clothes, which makes it difficult to acquire evacuation safety performance. Thus, thorough control of danger factors in processes and periodic education and training are required. It is also necessary to establish a level of domestic technologies equivalent to the level of standards of advanced countries in fire protection.

A Study on the Multiculturalism Phenomena Expressed in Contemporary Fashion of the End twentieth century (20세기말 현대패션에 나타난 다문화주의(Multiculturalism) 현상에 관한 연구)

  • 최혜정;임영자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.2
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    • pp.149-167
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    • 2001
  • Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

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A Study on Elementary Students' Perceptions of Science, Engineering, and Technology and on the Images of Scientists, Engineers, and Technicians (초등학생의 과학, 공학, 기술에 대한 인식 및 과학자, 공학자, 기술자에 대한 이미지 조사)

  • Jung, Jinkyu;Kim, Youngmin
    • Journal of The Korean Association For Science Education
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    • v.34 no.8
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    • pp.719-730
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate elementary school students' perceptions about science, engineering and technology and their images of scientists, engineers, and technicians. In order to investigate students' images of scientists, engineers, technicians and student's perception of science, engineering, and technology, we used the tools "Draw a scientist at work, Draw an engineer at work, and Draw a technician at work". We have revised the tool DAST (Draw a scientist test), which was used in Fralick et al.'s study (2009). Subjects were 209 6th grade students sampled from an elementary school in G-city in Korea. According to the results of this study, the students' representative image of a scientist was similar to stereotypical scientist image in previous studies, but the students perceived science as a field of research with various professionals. The students' representative image of an engineer was a man with short hair, no beard or mustache, wearing ordinary clothes but no glasses. The engineer was designing or constructing a ship, a robot, a computer, and an airplane. The students' representative image of a technician was a man with short hair, wearing protective goggles and a mask for welding. The technician was fixing a car, a robot, a rocket, etc. and working with wrenches, hammers, screw drivers, welding machines, etc. Many students didn't perceive engineering and technology as fields of research. Also, many students didn't variously perceive engineering and technology as fields and ways of study.

An Analysis of Street Fashion in Northeast 3-Sung, China(Part I) -Focusing on 2006 Spring in Dalian- (중국 동북 3성 스트리트 패션 분석(제1보) -2006년 봄 대련시를 중심으로-)

  • Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.11
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    • pp.1554-1564
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    • 2007
  • In apparel industry, the production of clothing for the global market, has it#s origin in its characteristics depending on hands on working style, according to the globalization of a fashion industry. These days, however, the globalized production is unable to keep pace with the short cycle of production due to the unpredictable change of the taste or demands in the local area, as a result, the industry has come to take a focus on the production and consumption in the circumscribed region. In this stream, the northeastern area, specially, Dalian which is renowned for a center of fashion was designated as a city of this study as a representative. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of street fashion in Dalian. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 5 weeks from 14 May 2006 until 18 June 2006, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of city, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development area. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are casual styles(68%) rather than formal styles(32%). In the casual styles, sports casual(36.0%), character casual(29.5%), jean casual(2.6%) were listed. All kinds of clothes are tightly fitted due to the stretched fabric and knit fabric. 2. Preferred colors are white(31.1%), red(16.6%), black(15.8%) khaki(7.8%) and blue(7.6%) for tops, and black(34.6%), blue(27.2%), white(15.4%), brown(14.6%) for bottoms. 3. Preferred clothing items are T-shirt(36.5%), jumper(33.6%), jacket(20.0%), blouse(8.7%), etc.(1.2%) for tops, pants(91.4%), skirts(8.6%) for bottoms. In the pants, cigarette pants(34.6%), bell bottom pants(21.0%), cargo pants(19.9%), straight pants(15.9%) were listed respectively. In the skirts, flare skirt(3.9%), tight skirt(2.2%), semi tight skirt(1.7%), pleats skirt(0.8%) were listed.

Analysis of Contamination Sources of Staphylococcus aureus Related to Perilla Leaves Using Multi-Locus Variable Number of Tandem Repeat Analysis (MLVA) (Multi-Locus Variable Number of Tandem Repeat Analysis (MLVA)를 이용한 들깻잎 중 Staphylococcus aureus의 오염원분석)

  • Kim, Se-Ri;Shim, Won-Bo;Han, Noo Ri;Chung, Duck-Hwa
    • Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.278-284
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    • 2014
  • To investigate the prevalence of Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) during production of perilla leaves, a total of 261 samples, including water, soil, surroundings of cultivation and packing, workers, and perilla leaves, was examined.. To trace the contamination sources of S. aureus related to perilla leaves, MLVA (Multi-Locous Variable number of tandem repeat Analysis), which is a very efficient method to discriminate strains with minimum molecular biology equipment was applied to S. aureus isolated from perilla leaves farms. S. aureus was isolated in perilla leaves from 9 of 38 farms at 0-2.92 log CFU/g. S. aureus was also found in working environment, including packing vinyl, worker clothes, irrigation water and hands. The patterns of MLVA of isolates from perilla leaves matched with those of isolates from packing table, irrigation water, packing vinyl, and hands. The isolates were successfully examined and determined by MLVA, thus elucidating S. aureus source and spread.

Investigation of Microbiological Hazard from Korean Leeks and Cultivation Area to Establish the GAP Model (Good Agricultural Practices (GAP)모델 개발을 위한 부추 및 생산환경에서의 위해요소 조사)

  • Park, Sang-Gon;Choi, Young-Dong;Lee, Chae-Won;Jeong, Myeong-Jin;Kim, Jeong-Sook;Chung, Duck-Hwa;Shim, Won-Bo
    • Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.28-34
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    • 2015
  • This study is to investigate microbiological hazards which can be used as fundamental data to adequately control leeks hazards and develop leeks GAP model for those who want to get GAP system. The microbiological investigations on cultivation environments (soil and water), crops (leeks), personal hygiene (workers' hands, clothes and gloves) and working tools (boxes) have been conducted for one year, so the period was classified under non-cultivation, cultivation, and post harvest. Total bacteria was detected from soil (4.0~6.7 log CFU/g), leeks (4.6~5.1 log CFU/g), hands (ND~3.3 log CFU/hand) and gloves ($ND{\sim}5.4\;log\;CFU/cm^2$) while nothing was detected from the other samples. The coliform contamination of leeks (4.8~5.0 log CFU/g) was more high than that of soil (3.9~4.2 log CFU/g). In case of foodborne pathogens, only B. cereus was detected at the level of 0.5~4.6 log CFU/g (or hand, $100cm^2$). Fungi was observed at the level of 2.1~3.8 log CFU/g (or hand, $100cm^2$) excepting water and some working tools. These results demonstrate that the contamination of leeks is comparatively higher than that of soil sample. The reason may be the cross-contamination by biological hazards presenting on soil. Therefore, it is necessary to properly control soil and fertilizer for safety against biological hazards.

Wearable Art-Chameleon Dress (웨어러블 아트-카멜레온 드레스)

  • Cho, Kyoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.12
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    • pp.1837-1847
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    • 2008
  • The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.