• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.836-850
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• 2011

The modern fashion photograph is interpreted as diverse versions via individual perspectives and thus induces meaning as individuals compose diverse worlds. The researcher perceived the act of reading the significance of the modern fashion photograph from the aspect of the diverse worlds that the receivers comprise, and the researcher sought to highlight this with the ways of worldmaking, as in Nelson Goodman's concept of irrealism. This study sought the transitional structure of the significance of fashion photographs through the irrealism of Goodman and theoretically considered the way in which the worldmaking was organized. The study collected fashion photos shown in fashion magazines and fashion brand catalogs from 2005 to 2010 for a study of the precedent theories and a survey of photographic materials to select characteristics based on Goodman's Ways of Worldmaking. Goodman suggested the five ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, deletion and supplementation, and ordering as the ways of worldmaking. The composition and decomposition way leads to habit and perpetuation due to existing concepts or intimateness. It can also be considered that the composition and the decomposition way occur coincidentally with other ways due to the previous worlds in which users connote during the process through which the fashion photos were composed and decomposed, deformed, weighted, and ordered. Therefore, this study researched the four ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, and ordering by integrating them into fashion photos based on the five types of ways reviewed through a theoretical consideration.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.226-241
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• 2010

This study details the history and characteristics of consumption values, text style analyses, and appeal types expressed in magazine commercials from 1955 to 2008. This study analyzes the level of the social structure of commercial expression for each period. Consumption values based on the categories of consumption values by Sheth (1991) were classified through a total commercials analysis. Analyses on closing types of sentences, types of sentences, and rhetorical figures were executed focusing on headline text and text style. Appealing types were composed of rational, emotional, and ethical appeals. For analysis, the crosstab analysis and chi-square test of SPSS are used. The results are as follow. Seven values were constructed, functional value, social value, emotional value, conditional value, epistemic value, fashionable value, and indistinct value. The ratio of emotional value was the highest and functional value, epistemic value conditional value, fashionable value, social value, and indistinct value followed. The emotional value social value, conditional value, fashionable value, and epistemic value that focused on the emotion of consumers increased, while the functional value decreased. Sentences that use narrative styles, hyperboles, and metaphors that increased the interest of readers were dominantly used in the headline texts. For sentence expression, a declarative sentence in a sentence type, exciting curiosity in the expression method where hyperbole and figures of speech in rhetorical expressions are used most often. Emotional appeal was used almost twice more than the reasonable appeal for appeal types of the total commercial. The lower level of reasonable appeal is information that provides the product function. Interest and expression (such as pleasure and achievement) were used most often for emotional appeal. These results show that the most important issue is the emotional value in consumption in understanding the consumer. Marketing managers should also be aware of the functional value as well as an emotional value.

• 한국화예디자인학연구
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• 제40호
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• pp.77-96
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• 2019

본 연구는 자생식물의 화훼시장 유통 현황 및 화훼 장식에서의 활용 현황을 파악하기 위해 수행되었다. 화훼시장(2017.01-2017.12)에 판매되는 자생식물 및 월별 판매 현황을 조사했다. 또한, 화훼 잡지 'Fleur'와 'The Flower'에 수록된 작품의 자생식물 사용 현황, 형태별 분류에 따른 활용 빈도, 색채 분석을 수행했다. 화훼시장에 유통되고 있는 절화 172종 가운데 자생식물은 24종(14.0%)에 불과한 것으로 나타났다. 형태별로는 필러 플라워가 15종으로 다른 형태에 비해 많은 수가 유통되고 있었다. 화훼 잡지 'Fleur'와'The Flower'에 사용된 자생식물은 각각 14종(10.2%)과 17종(9.6%)으로 외래식물에 비해 자생식물의 쓰임이 적음을 알 수 있었다. 형태별로는 두 잡지 모두 필러 플라워의 수가 가장 많았으나 'Fleur'에서는 폼 플라워(299작품), 'The Flower'에서는 매스 플라워(571작품)가 많은 활용 빈도를 나타냈다. 화훼 장식에 사용된 자생식물의 색채 분석 결과 P(보라), PB(남색), RP(자주) 계열이 전체의 57%로 나타났다. 따라서 활용도가 높은 형태인 폼·매스 플라워와 사람들의 선호가 높은 색상의 자생식물을 개발한다면 선호 및 소비 증대가 가능할 것으로 보인다.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.29-39
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• 2013

In this study, the image of the male body represented in fashion advertisement is analyzed based on discourses on the male body. Fashion brand advertisements, which emphasized the images of the male body, were selected from two magazines: GQ, a men's magazine, and VOGUE, a representative women's magazine. The published dates of the selected images were from Feb. 2010 to Oct. 2012, and these images were used for the analysis. The study results of the discourse on the male body appearing in fashion advertisement based on the discussion of changing masculinity suggests the following 4 features: i) macho, powerful and muscular male representing the hegemonic manhood; ii) refined and decorated male representing the wealthy and disengaged figure of a successful businessman; iii) androgynous male represented by the deconstruction of masculinity and femininity embedded in gender; iv) as an aesthetic object, the male with sex role of changed from a subject to an ornament, whose body becomes the object of voyeuristic view. This study tried to grasp the ideal and modern masculinity, and in particular, attempted to offer suggestions in different approaches to the male body image depending on the consumer type in order to enhance the brand image. This new masculinity is thought to be a foundation on which the advertisement and products suitable for the demands of future customers can be produced.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.28-34
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to historically examine the thoughts and ideas of geometry and to analyze the expression style of design applied to the mass communication such as magazines and world wide webs, by giving definitions on the ideas of geometry and the pattern of cognition. Geometry was evolved to Descartes's analytical geometry, projective geometry, non-Euclidean geometry and Topology at the end of 19th century. When geometry applies to design styles, it is devided into two field, plane geometry and solid geometry. The development of geometry was completed from the Pythagoras symbolic theory of number to Platonic spiritual geometry and Euclidean geometry. It can be studied that those have what kind of symbolic meanings and transformations on each hair design plan. It can also analized how those symbolic forms are appeared on the design form. This tendency means that there is always a try for the use of geometry as reasonable device for hair design. If the hair design and geometry have logical and artistical relation, we can make buildings which have a order, balance and harmony.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.29-41
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• 2006

Various current events provide evidence that society is undergoing changes in perceptions of social relationships. Specifically, visual media in the form of advertisements can convey images which reflect society's values and concepts about role relationships. The purpose of this research was to examine ads in fashion magazines to determine what types of model roles and role relationships typically appear in fashion advertising which can mirror society's values. A content analysis was conducted of ads obtained from US Vogue and US GQ for the year 2002. Six kinds of roles/relationships were found: (1) Narcissism (representing self absorption), (2) sexually enticing opposite-sex relationships, (3) close/romantic same-sex relationships, (4) friend relationships, (5) family relationships, and (6) independent relationships. Of these, narcissism predominated, however, a small number of sexually provocative ads appeared as well as same-sex romantic relationships. Because sole (single) models were more typical, they also were examined to determine ways in which they relate to the audience. Characteristics examined included body presentation & pose, eye gaze, and facial expression. Direct eye gaze was the typical way to engage the audience. Gender differences were apparent: smiling was more typical of women, indifference for men. The symbolic meaning and values investigated from this research are the blurring of gender identity portrayed in homosexual imagery, family values, and the value of youth. The consistency of models' race in ads does not portray the diversity reflected in the demographic census.