• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.353-359
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the jacket pattern drafting method for Korean middle-aged women. The study was composed as follows : 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis : Two hundreds and forty four middle-aged women between the ages of forty five and fifty nine were measured on 52 items. 2. Development of new jacket pattern drafting method : Measurement items necessary to draft new jacket pattern were back waist length, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, back interscye breadth, front interscye breadth, neck base girth, nipple length, nipple to nipple breadth, 1/2 posterior shoulder length and sleeve length. Basic jackets constructed from the experimental patterns were examined through the fitting test. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method : The sensory evaluations for appearance and comfort were applied to evaluate the new jacket pattern by comparing it with one of the conventional jacket patterns (Lee Hyung-Suk's). According to the result of sensory evaluation, the new jacket pattern was more positive.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.475-483
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• 2005

The ready-made clothes for obese women are not manufactured systematically due to the diversity and scarcity of their body shape. In this study, we first analyzed and classified 104 obese women's body shape to select four representative subjects. Then, the four subjects participated in wearing test to evaluate the performance of the jacket patterns which are available in the market and widely-used at the same time. The characteristics of the jacket patterns for obese women were also investigated. As to the highly rated jacket in terms of body motion, it was found that difference between the breast width to axilla and the breadth to anterior midaxilla is larger than the other jackets, and the breast width of front body is wider than what of back width. It was noted, however, that the armhole depth and the width of obese women' jackets should not be determined indirectly by the magnitude of the girth around bust, waist or hip as in the case of regular sized women's. It is because body proportion of obese women is different from that of standard sized women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.990-998
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• 2005

The purpose of the study was to examine Korean elderly women's attitudes toward fashion and to determine formal jacket designs preferred by them. The subjects of the study were older than 50 years who will become aging population in 2014. For data collection, interview investigated 200 copies of questionnaire were collected, and available data used final analysis were 174 volumes. As the results of the principal components factor analysis, it revealed 4 attitudinal factors including cautious attitude, fashion-conscious attitude, ostentatious attitude, and easy-conscious attitude. The subjects divided into two groups, highly involved group and lowly involved group, for each factor. As the result of preference differences by the degree of each attitude, it revealed that the attitudes toward fashion products would significantly influence elderly women's jacket design preferences. The results of the study show that they are a diverse group whose consumer needs and wants vary dramatically and give initial information to assist designing appropriate formal jacket for elderly women.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2009

This is a follow-up study to "An Analysis of the Fitting of Plus-sized Women's Formal Jackets in On-line Shopping Malls", in which we compiled basic sizes of formal jackets sold in online retailers for plus-sized women and compared specific measurements of the jackets from each retailer. Emphasizing a comparison of age groups 20-39 and 40-59, fit evaluations and analyses were conducted in order to provide data to help manufacturers develop formal jacket patterns that reflect physical characteristics of plus-sized consumers and offer better physical fit. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and May 2008. and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 17.0 statistics program. The results were summarized as follows. The two age groups gave different evaluations of the fit problems in the women's formal jackets sold in online retailers. Whereas the age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas, the age group 40-59 said that they found more problems in the armscye, upper arms, sleeve length and jacket length. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and jacket length severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given during pattern design.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.469-483
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• 2008

Body image is important as it is related to self-esteem and can be enhanced by clothing and the degree of enhancement is related to clothing fit. The purpose of the paper is to find the adequate ease distribution of jacket pattern for the obese women who want to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the nine types of experimental jackets with different ease distribution. As results it was found that jacket pattern for the obese women is that the front width of pattern is wider than what of back width in waist and abdomen. It was also noted that there was distance between clothing and skin in the girth around hip of jacket. 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women. The ready-to-made clothes for the obese women's clothing should be manufactured systematically in due consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.27-37
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• 2005

This study is aimed at the ready-mades size system and satisfaction of consumers size for woman's wear at domestic market which are made by public production systems. This study, particularly, is focused on jacket of 20-30 aged woman's wear in twenties & thirties female clothe. The procedures of this study are as follows; 1. Select 25 domestic clothing companies that its product has targeted in twenties & thirties female and investigate the system of each pattern size 2. Select 259 female in twenties & thirties randomly in Seoul survey a standad of females jacket purchase. Analysis of this study is based on SPSS statistics program, technical statistics, $X^2$ and ANOVA verification. The results of studying are as follows; 1. The survey of pattern size of the domestic females clothing companies has shown some distinctive feature at age and body type of their consumers. 2. Crucial point of female consumers in twenties & thirties is a design and fitness of their jacket while they are purchasing their jacket. 3. Female consumers have some dissatisfaction for the variety of size, difficulty of purchasing and size of bust, shoulder & length of arms of their jacket.