• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.52-58
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• 1996

In order to study an applicable level for the graft finish of silk filaments and the characteristics of silk fabric, some sample fabrics were woven with grafted weft and the characteristics of sample fabrics were analyzed to evaluate the mechanical properites and the handle values according to the graft yield(%) of MMA and HEMA monomers on silk filaments. 1. The tensile properties were detected in the increase of linearity(LT) and the recovery in time of the increasing resilience(RT). 2. The bending properties were detected to have a lot of effect on the balance of bending rigidity(B) to hysteresis(2HB) according to the elastic relaxation of warp tension and the interlacing stress. 3. The shearing properities were detected to show the softness and the elastics in a case of the decrease in shearing rigidity(G) and hysteresis(2HG, 2HG5) according to the graft yields. 4. The compression properties were detected in the decrease of linearity(LC) and the uniformity of resilience(RC). It explains that the tendancies of compressible variation is not accepted. 5. The surface properities were detected to be affected by the surface forms of grafted silk filaments and the variation in the morphologies of interlacing sections. Considering the interlacing eveness, MMA grafted fabrics were accepted within the level of WOMEN'S THIN DRESS(KN-201-LDY) but HEMA grafted fabrics were not accepted. 6. The variation of handles were detected in the increase of total hand(TAV) within the levels of 65% of KOSHI and 82% of HARI on the average. 7. The handle fashions were detected in the nature of Habuta and Dechine from MAA graft but the nature of Fugi were shaped from HEMA graft in proportion to the graft yields.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.160-174
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• 2005

Despite the decrease in the number of children due to low birth rate, the domestic children's apparel market has been achieving steady growth as family income is rising thanks to more opportunities for working women, parents spend more on their children, and they prefer brand products that make their children look special. In addition, the market is suffering from hard competition as large enterprises have joined the race. The present study purposed to survey the children's apparel market in Korea, which is in a transitional period, and to contribute to the development of the market with Korean brands. For this purpose, we analyzed the characteristics of children's apparel brands in the 21st century based on the current state of the domestic children's apparel market and, based on the findings, forecasted the future trend of children's apparel brands, suggested improvements for expected problems, proposed standards for coping with changes such as diversification, high quality and differentiation in the children's apparel market, and provided consumers with information on how to purchase products. According to the result of analyzing the characteristics of children's apparel brands in the 21st century, brands are categorized largely into four types - life cultural brands, functional product brands, character brands and brands advancing to China. Life cultural brands equipped with all necessities for children are expanding, and with the deepening social problems of environmental pollution and the reduction of the child population, functional products made of environment-friendly materials are spreading widely, targeting infants and children. Furthermore, for extending age targets and diversifying products, children's apparel is using characters. The use of characters is expected to have a considerable effect on the growth of brands because children are more subjective as consumers than before and they are more easily persuaded with characters. Domestic children's apparel brands advancing to China have a high expectation of success in overcoming the limitation of the local market that has reached its peak and growing into global brands. Korean apparel makers are struggling to overcome the depressed domestic market, to recover consumers' consumption, to cope with market opening, to pursue high value of sensibility and to expand the seniors' market, etc. In this situation, future trends of children's apparel brands will be the expansion of family brands, brand totalization, quality price, niche market (pre-teen market), etc. In response to these trends, we made the following suggestions for improvement. 1. Children's apparel brands are evolving into family brands as well as into total brands through voluming. Today, however, apparel makers are advancing to the children's apparel market with the concept of adults' apparel and, as a result, children's apparel is merely adults' apparel of reduced size, having problems in design, color and materials. Thus, apparel makers must develop design considering the wide range of size and the characteristics of children's apparel, strengthen sourcing abilities to create revenues, and make thorough survey of customers to find common denominators between adults' apparel and children's apparel considering that characteristic that the target class is different from the buyer class. Furthermore, they must make active investments in human resources, develop outstanding products through advanced planning and design, and support marketing techniques and management systems to stores. 2. As the declining birth rate will continue to have a negative effect on the market, it may be difficult to expand the market size but there is still a margin for growth through high-sensibility and high-quality products. The competitiveness of brands is determined by their market shares. Accordingly, concepts should be specialized according to lifestyle, customers' diverse needs should be satisfied, and cross-coordination should be achieved within a brand. 3. Considering Korean parents who do not spare investment in their children despite shrinking consumption, functional products must be high value-added goods that can enhance efficiency. However, in the current situation of the infants' apparel industry where a textile manufacturer supply its products to multiple brands, it is difficult to develop unique products only based on materials. Thus, it is considered urgent to appeal to consumers not by relying on materials only but by finding methods of applying their own characters to children's dress.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.325-341
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• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• Child Health Nursing Research
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.49-58
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• 2013

목적 보육교사를 대상으로 보육시설에서 아토피 피부염 아동을 관리하고 있는 현황과 보육교사의 지식수준 및 실천 정도를 확인하고 현재의 관리 현황이 보육교사의 지식과 실천에 어떻게 영향을 주는지 파악하는 데에 있다. 방법 대상자는 G광역시 1개구 소재의 보육시설에서 근무하는 보육교사 107명이다. 인구학적 특성, 아토피 피부염 아동의 관리 현황, 그리고 지식수준과 실천 정도(Park, 2011)로 구성된 설문지를 이용하여 자료를 수집하였고 서술적 분석, 일원분산분석 및 사후검정 그리고 상관관계로 분석하였다. 결과 대상자의 대부분이 아토피 피부염 아동을 지도할 때 단순히 부모의 요구에 따른다고 답했다. 절반이상은 아토피 피부염 아동 지도에 대한 지식 부족으로 어려움을 겪고 있었으며 교육과 관리 지침의 제공을 희망하였다. 지식은 75% 수준이었고, 하위영역 중 증상 및 징후에 대한 지식 점수가 가장 높았고 관리에 대한 지식 점수가 가장 낮았다. 실천은 84.3%정도였고, 4개 하위영역 중 음식 관리점수가 가장 높았고 의복 및 침구 관리점수가 가장 낮았다. 그러나 지식과 실천 사이의 통계적으로 유의한 상관관계는 보여주지 않았다(r=.141, p =.149). 결론 대상자는 아토피 피부염 아동을 지도할 때 부모의 요구에 반응하는 소극적 태도를 보였고 지식과 실천은 충분하지 못한 수준이었다. 그들은 지식부족의 어려움을 호소하면서 지침의 제공과 교육을 원한다는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 따라서 보육교사의 아토피 피부염에 대한 지식과 구체적 실천 방법을 포함한 교육프로그램의 개발이 필요하며 다양한 방법으로 접근할 수 있는 전략을 수립할 필요가 있다.