• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.611-616
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• 2003

Korean ginseng(Panax Ginseng C.A. Meyer) known as a oriental miracle drug is an important medicinal plant. Ginseng has been used for geriatric, tonic, stomachic, and aphrodisiac treatments for thousands years. Also, it is an antibiotic and has therapeutic properties against stress and cancer. Ginseng is widely distributed all over the world. Among them, Korean mountain ginseng has the most valuable effect on pharmaceuticals. The roots of mountain ginseng contained several kinds of ginsenosides that have many active functions for the human body. However, the study of mountain ginseng has a limit because the mountain ginseng is very expensive and rare. So, we artificially cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots using the bioreactor culture system. We induced callus from original mountain ginseng, directly dug up in mountain and aged about one hundred ten years. Separated adventitious roots were precultured in 500ml conical flasks and then, transferred in 20L bioreactors. The adventitious roots of mountain ginseng were harvested after culturing for 40days, dried and then, extracted with several solvents. In this study, we investigated the whitening effect, anti-wrinkle effect and the safety of tissue cultured adventitious roots extract of mountain ginseng in order to identify the merit as a cosmetic ingredient. Particularly, extract of mountain ginseng adventitious roots showed whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. The inhibitory effect of this extract on the melanogenesis was examined using B-16 melanoma cell. When B-16 melanoma cells were cultured with adventitious root extract, there was a dramatically decrease in melanin contents of 8-16 melanoma cell. And we identified this extract inhibited Dopa auto-oxidation significantly. Also, when transformed mouse fibroblast L929 cells were treated with this extract, there was a significant increase in collagen synthesis. The results show significant inhibited melanization and wrinkle without inhibiting cell viability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.9-14
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• 2018

In order to find new functional materials for the cosmetics application, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-melanogenic properties of Gentiana scabra extracts (GSE), which were prepared by the various extraction methods. Results showed that GSE had high DPPH radical scavenging activity in a dose-dependent manner. Also, GSE inhibited the prodution of melanin in B16F10 melanoma cell as well as tyrosinase activity. We also found that GSE inhibited mRNA expression of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1 and 2. In conclusion we suggest that GSE is applicable to cosmetics as a potential ingredient for their anti-oxidant and whitening effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.329-343
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• 2004

Recently, our society has prominently raised the desire to well-being life since not only our economical situations are better than before, but environmental pollution become serious. In well-being trends, the natural or nature-related products are also issued on their usages as bio-/raw materials for our living industries, such as cosmetics, household goods, and so on. Especially, various materials which comes from medicinal plants has been discovered their physiological properties and validated their functions. Thus, they have been subjected to several processes, including extraction, isolation and concentration, and popularly introduced to cosmetic industry. In these reasons, a variety of cosmetic Products using natural materials has been developed, which are focused on whitening, wrinkle improvement, and anti-aging. In this report, we present a brief review of the function and classification of natural products interested in until now, and introduce the natural materials for cosmetics having physiological activities on skin, including Fructan, Acrea extract, Portulaca extract, Licorce extract, Dandelion extract, Ulmus extract, SC-glucan, Arbutin, and Sophora extract.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.149-156
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• 2008

To develop a new natural whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated effects of Acanthopanax sessiliflorum Seeman on melanogenesis. We prepared phenolic acid-rich extract including two phenolic acids, chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid, as predominant constituents from Acanthopanax sessiliflorum Seeman. Phenolic acid-rich extract showed ROS scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the $IC_{50}$ values of $3.43{\pm}0.35{\mu}g/mL$ and $158.91{\pm}1.57{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Phenolic acid-rich fraction reduced melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells dose-dependantly and the decrease was $27.27{\pm}2.66%$ at a concentration of $100{\mu}g/mL$. And the phenolic acid-rich fraction reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about $53.67{\pm}8.55%$ at a concentration of $100{\mu}g/mL$. Phenolic acid-rich extract inhibited tyrosinase and TRP-2 expression at protein level. These results suggest that phenolic acid-rich fraction reduced melanin formation by the inhibitions of tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, we suggest that phenolic acid-rich extract could be used as a whitening ingredient in cosmetics.

• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.165-171
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• 2008

To develop effective skin whitening agents, we tested natural herbal extracts for their melanogenic inhibitory activities. Sedum samentosum was selected for its inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Ethanolic extract of S. samentosum (SSE) was evaluated for antioxidative effect and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of melanogenesis. We investigated the changes in protein level and mRNA level of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1 and TRP-2 by using western blotting and RT-PCR, respectively. SSE showed scavenging activities of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the $IC_{50}$ of 342.7 $\mug/ml$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and 64.69 $\mug/ml$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. SSE treatment suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 46% and reduced tyrosinase activity up to 51% at 100 $\mug/ml$ in B16 melanoma cells. The tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase expression in B16 melanoma cells were reduced in a dose-dependent manner by SSE. Also, SSE was able to significantly inhibit tyrosinase and TRP-1 expression in mRNA level. These results suggest that SSE inhibited melanin production which may be dependent on tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells, and an effective whitening agent for the skin.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

As Korea's representative medical text, "Donguibogam" reveals Korean Medicine's unique perspective on the human body. The text also contains abundant resources related to skin, leading to diverse researches on the subject today. In this paper, authors tried to elicit values of "Donguibogam" in the general cosmetics field, through literature review. First, prescriptions related to main functions of modern cosmetics (anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing) were classified. In relation to anti-aging, concepts such as 返老 (reversing aging), 還童 (to become young again), 皺 (wrinkle), and 皮急 (tense skin) were extracted and 69 examples of treatments were introduced. For whitening care, 41 treatments were mentioned on hyper-pigmentation and general complexion. Concepts related to moisturizing included expressions such as 潤肌膚 (hydration of skin) and 光澤 (glow), induced by 48 treatment prescriptions. Second, cosmetics related prescriptions were classified according to the application methods of modern cosmetics. 78 prescriptions of cleansing category included washing-off local area with herbal liquid, bathing, washing-off after steaming, and soaking the body in the herbal liquid. Total of 308 topical application prescriptions covered the conditions of various skin inflammations, scalp illnesses, and etc. In conclusion, this research examines the value of "Donguibogam" as a useful of skincare. Further studies are expected to extend our understanding of the field.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.2 s.51
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• pp.153-159
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• 2005

In this study, we investigated the application of an extract from Ephedra sinica which has been composed of traditional Korean medicine as a whitening ingredient. The extract of Ephedra sinica which was obtained from the mixture of methanol and water (1:1) the inhibitory effect of tyrosinase. Then, Ephedra sinica was extracted by two different solvents. One was water and the other was methylene chloride. Only, the water extract of Ephedra sinica showed the inhibitory effort of tyrosinase; the anti-tyrosinase activity with $0.2\%$ of the water extract was $60.6\%$. But the extract of Ephedra sinica in methylene chloride fraction showed little inhibitory effect on tyrosinase. The inhibitory effect of the concentrated water extract of Ephedra sinica was tested on L-DOPA auto-oxidation and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. In L-DOPA auto-oxidation, $0.5\%$ of the concentrated water extract showed $87\%$ of inhibition of L-DOPA auto-oxidation and the $0.75\%$ concentrated Ephedra sinica extract in wafer fraction inhibited $98.8\%$ of that. In melanin synthesis of B-16 melanoma, the concentrated water effect of Ephedra sinica inhibited $70.2\%$ or $79.9\%$ of inhibitory effect on that at the concentration of $0.05\%$ or $0.075\%$, respectively. For verifying the skin whitening effect of the concentrated water extract of Ephedra sinica in vivo, we performed the clinical test of that. The research showed the significant skin whitening effect of a cream containing $0.5\%$ Ephedra sinica extract and the statistical analysis showed a significant difference (p < 0.05) between sample (containing $0.5\%$ Ephedra sinica extract) and placebo after 10 weeks.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.289-295
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• 2017

A. koreanum was investigated to identify the constituents possessing whitening effects. As anti-melanogenesis activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, n-hexane (Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions showed the most potent activities. Three constituents were isolated from the n-Hex fraction of A. koreanum; kaurenoic acid (1), $16{\alpha}$-hydro-17-isovaleroyloxy-ent-kauran-19-oicacid (2), $16{\alpha}$-hydroxy-17-isovaleroyl-oxy-ent-kauran-19-oic acid (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including $^1H$ and $^{13}C$ NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Whitening effects were studied for the isolated compounds. Upon the anti-melanogenesis test using ${\alpha}-MSH$ stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the compounds 1, 2 and 3 inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities effectively. Based on these results, A. koreanum stems extract could be potentially applicable as whitening ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.11
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• pp.43-50
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the use and satisfaction on cosmetics of middle- and old-aged women with well-being pursuit disposition. A survey was conducted from January 20 to February 10 in 2006. The statistical analysis methods used to analyze the 393 middle- and old- aged female subjects were frequency analysis, reliability analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, crosstab, and multiple regression analysis. First, middle- and old-aged women were using functional cosmetics for wrinkle and whitening as well as skin lotion, moisture lotion and nutritive cream. They applied basic skin make-up only or partial make-up on the eyes and lips. Second, the well-being pursuit disposition factors were determined to be eco-friendly pursuit disposition, economical pursuit disposition, and health pursuit disposition. The well-being pursuit disposition factors had an effect on satisfaction of basic cosmetics. While the economical pursuit disposition factor had an effect on satisfaction of colored cosmetics. Third, the clusters from well-being pursuit disposition were determined to be wellbeing unconcerned group, eco-friendly concerned group, economical concerned group, and health concerned group. The proportion of subjects applying basic and colored cosmetics was high in health concerned group.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.53-60
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• 2017

In this study, we investigated whitening and anti-inflammatory constituents from a watermelon (Citrullus lanatus, C. lanatus) vines (leaves and stems). As anti-melanogenesis and anti-inflammatory activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, n-hexane (n-Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions showed the most potent activities. Three constituents were isolated from the n-Hex and EtOAc fractions of C. lanatus; ${\alpha}-linolenic$ acid (1), sigmast-7-en-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (2), 1-feruloyl-${\beta}$-D-glucopyrinoside (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including $^1H$ and $^{13}C$ NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Whitening and anti-inflammatory effects were studied for the isolated compounds. Upon the anti-melanogenesis tests using ${\alpha}-MSH$ stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the compounds 1 and 3 inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities effectively. For the anti-inflammation tests using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW 264.7 cells, the isolates 1 and 3 were determined to decrease the production of nitric oxide (NO) and pro-inflammatory cytokines ($TNF-{\alpha}$, IL-6). Based on these results, C. lanatus vines extract could be potentially applicable as whitening and anti-inflammatory ingredients in cosmetic formulations.