• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1557-1566
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• 2023

Agastachis herba is so similar in use to herbs that it is called Korea Mint in the West. Western herbs are commonly used as ingredients in cosmetics. However, in Korea, Agastachis herba is primarily used as a medicinal herb. This study aims to compare the effectiveness of one cosmetic ingredient with another cosmetic ingredient. Antioxidant, whitening, polyphenol, flavonoid, and antibacterial experiments were conducted on lactobacillus, yeast ferments, essential oils, and floral water using extracts from Agastachis herba. Antioxidants exhibited significant effects in all samples, while essential oils displayed the highest efficacy in terms of whitening, polyphenol content, and antibacterial properties. Flavonoids exhibited the strongest effect in the 70% ethanol extract. The essential oil had the most significant functional impact. However, it was confirmed that the fermented products that underwent yeast fermentation with extracts were as effective as essential oils.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.85-96
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• 2015

Forsythia fructus has been shown to have antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-aging and whitening effects. This work was carried out to investigate the anti-aging effects of Forsythia viridissima-prescription extracts (Yeongyoseungma-tang, Gamiyeongyoseungma-tang, Hoechunyangkyeok-san) on skin. Skin anti-aging effect of Forsythia viridissima-prescription extracts (Yeongyoseungma-tang, Gamiyeongyoseungma-tang, Hoechunyangkyeok-san) was evaluated by using antioxidant assay, anti-glycation activity, inhibitory effect of tyrosinase activity, expression of type I procollagen and UVA-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 on HS68 cells, and reduction of ${\alpha}$-MSH-induced melanin on B16F1 cells. Forsythia viridissima-prescription extracts showed anti-oxidative and anti-glycation activity. The pectinex hydrolysed extract from Yeongyoseungma-tang 75% EtOH extract and Gamiyeongyoseungma-tang 75% EtOH extract increased the type I procollagen synthesis, and decreased the UVA-induced MMP-1 expression on HS68 cells. The pectinex hydrolysed extracts of Hoechunyangkyeok-san 75% EtOH extract had the inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis on B16F1 cells. Based on these results, we suggest that Forsythia viridissima-prescription extracts may be useful as a potential source of functional anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.287-297
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• 2019

This study was carried out to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and whitening effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts and their fractions. Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents in fractions were varied from 13.58 to 40.06 mg GAE/g and 7.67 ~ 13.67 mg CE/g, respectively. Among the three fractions(chloroform, hexane, and water), $400{\mu}g/mL$ of the chroloform fraction showed similar antioxidant activity to ascorbic acid ($30{\mu}M$) against the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical. The chloroform and hexane fractions inhibited the NO production of RAW 264.7 cells similar to quercetin ($15{\mu}M$) and the chloroform fraction of $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly reduced IL-6, iNOS and COX2 gene expression. Additionally, the chloroform fraction inhibited ${\beta}$-hexosaminidase degranulation, IL-4, and IL-13 gene expression in RBL-2H3 cells. All of the fractions inhibited tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner, and the hexane fraction at $50{\mu}g/mL$ and the chloroform fraction at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly inhibited melanin production of B16F10 cells. These results indicated that H. vulgare L. can be used as an effective cosmetic ingredient having anti-inflammation and whitening activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.365-372
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• 2022

Cellobiose is a dissacharide constituted by two glucose units joined by a β-('1,4') glycosidic bond that is produced by the decomposition of cellulose. This product exists naturally in plants and has been utilized in different industries as a food sweetener, and as a cosmetic and pharmaceutical material. In this study, the potential of cellobiose as a whitening cosmetic product was evaluated by analyzing autophagy induction and the inhibition of melanin production. A cytotoxicity test conducted in the human melanin-producing cell line MNT-1 with increasing concentrations of cellobiose revealed that this compound did not cause cytotoxicity at 20 mg/mL or less. Based on this, autophagy was firstly evaluated by immunostaining with the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) after treatment with 20 mg/mL of cellobiose. The subsequent confocal microscopy analysis revealed an increase in LC3 puncta, indicating induction of autophagy. In addition, autophagy was further confirmed by western blot analysis, which demonstrated that cellobiose converted LC3-I to LC3- ∏ in a concentration- and time-dependent manners. An analysis of melanin contents after cellobiose treatment at a concentration of 20 mg/mL during 7 days revealed that melanin production was reduced by more than 50%. Additionally, the expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins TYR and TYRP1 were markedly decreased after cellobiose treatment. Based on these studies, a cosmetic cream formulation containing cellobiose was prepared and the change in formulation was tested for 4 weeks, and it was confirmed that the appearance changed to liquid form at high temperature, but the pH did not change. In conclusion, the present research demonstrated that cellobiose activates autophagy and inhibits melanin production, and showed the potential of this product as a material for whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.417-423
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• 2015

Oil-in-water(o/w) nanoemulsions were prepared in the system of water/Span 80-Tween 80/long-chain paraffin oil via PIC method. With the increase of preparation temperature from 30 oC to 80 oC, the diameter of emulsion droplets decreased from 150 nm to 40 nm. By varying the HLB of mixed surfactants, we found that there was an optimum HLB around 13.0~14.0 corresponding to the minimum droplet size. The size of emulsion droplets increased upon increasing the ratio of oil/emulsifying agent. At $f{\leq}0.15$, the size of nanoemulsions could be kept constant more than 2 months. The increase in preparation temperature makes it possible for producing monodisperse nanoemulsions. Once the nanoemulsion is produced, the stability against Ostwald ripening is outstanding due to the extremely low solubility of the liquid paraffin oil in the continuous phase.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.397-403
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• 1999

Tyrosinase plays an important role in the process of melanin polymer biosynthesis. Therefore, the enzyme inhibitors have been of great concern as cosmetics to have skin-whitening effects on the local hyperpigmentation. During the search for new inhibitory compounds on melanin polymer biosynthesis from natural sources, MeOH extracts of 589 higher plants were tested for the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity by the muschroom tyrosinase assay in vitro. Among plants tested, the leaves of Cercis chinensis exhibited potent inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase activity. Subsequently seven active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate soluble part of acetone extract of the leaves of C. chinensis by the activity guided fractionation monitoring the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. Their chemical structures were identified as $kaempferol-3-0-{\alpha}-L-rhamnoside$, quercitrin, $myricetin-3-0-{\alpha}-L-rhamnoside$, myricetin-3-0-(2'-O-galloyl)- ${\alpha}$ -L-rhamopyranoside (desmanthin), (-)-epicatechin-3-0-gallate, (-)-epigallocatechin-3-0-gallate, and methyl gallate on the basis of the speculation of spectral data and chemical reaction. Among the flavonol rhamnosides, myricetin-3-0-(2'-O-galloyl)- -L-rhamnoside(desmanthin) showed most potent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity and the structure of B-ring in flavonol moiety was related to the activity. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate having pyrogallol group in flavan-3-ol moiety exhibited more potent inhibitory effect than (-)-epicatechin-3-0-gallate having catechol group in flavan-3-ol moiety on mushroom tyrosinase activity.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.282-289
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• 2018

Melanin is a pigment produced from tyrosine in melanocytes. Although melanin has a protective role against UVB radiation-induced damage, it is also associated with the development of melanoma and darker skin tone. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, which regulates the rate-limiting step during conversion of tyrosine into DOPA and dopaquinone. To develop effective RNA interference therapeutics, we designed a melanin siRNA pool by applying multiple prediction programs to reduce human tyrosinase levels. First, 272 siRNAs passed the target accessibility evaluation using the RNAxs program. Then we selected 34 siRNA sequences with ${\Delta}G{\geq}-34.6kcal/mol$, i-Score value ${\geq}65$, and siRNA scales score ${\leq}30$. siRNAs were designed as 19-bp RNA duplexes with an asymmetric 3' overhang at the 3' end of the antisense strand. We tested if these siRNAs effectively reduced tyrosinase gene expression using qRT-PCR and found that 17 siRNA sequences were more effective than commercially available siRNA. Three siRNAs further tested showed an effective visual color change in MNT-1 human cells without cytotoxic effects, indicating these sequences are anti-melanogenic. Our study revealed that human tyrosinase siRNAs could be efficiently designed using multiple prediction algorithms.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.706-716
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• 2016

In this study we applied the NAG obtained by the deacetylation of chitin extracted from the shells of crabs and shrimp as cosmetic ingredient. In order to compare NAG with GLC we identified the influence of cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory, melanin biosynthesis formation inhibition on skin cell, and we measured the effects of the change of melanin and red spots. The results show that there was not any attentive cytotoxicity on the Raw 264.7 cell and B16F10 cell, and NO formation anti-inflammatory hindrance effect induced from Raw 264.7 by LPS was slight, and NAG suppressed the increase of melanin generation concentration-dependently after we induced the melanin generation with ${\alpha}$-MSH on B16F10 and measured the melanin biosynthesis inhibition. From this result, we identified the applicability of the cosmetics containing NAG as functional cosmetic for enhancing skin-lightening because when cream containing NAG was applied to skin the index of melanin red spots showed statistically meaningful changes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.130-138
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to assess the cosmeceutical activies of four kinds of Korea herb medicine extracts using in cosmetics and related industries. The cosmeceutical activities of extracts were investigated by tyrosinase inhibition, astringent, anti-bacterial and MTT assay for cell viability. In the whitening effect, PA that the highest tyrosinase inhibition activity showed 56% at 10 ppm in ethanol extract. Also water and ethanol extract of RE showed 54%, 68% at 1,000 ppm, respectively, but LE and CA showed lower effect. Astringent effect of water and ethanol extract of PA appeared over 60% at 1,000ppm concentration but other extracts showed no astringent effect. In the anti-bacterial test, water and ethanol extract of PA showed no anti-bacterial effect against all microorganisms. But water and ethanol extract of RE showed anti-bacterial effect on Staphylococcus aureus, ethanol extract of showed on Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, ethanol extract of CA showed on Candida albicans. The resUlt of stability test showed that the emulsion of containing PA were very stable at various temperature and sun-light test. Viscosity and pH of emulsion did not change. From the results of human patch test to assess the safety of cosmetics containing PA there was no negative reaction on skin was found.