• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.527-536
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• 2016

This study aims to generate baseline data for vitalizing the sales of functional cosmetics through an Importance-Performance Analysis (IPA) of the selection attributes of functional cosmetics. From the analysis of consumers' selection criteria, the study will assist functional cosmetics companies in reflecting consumer demands and therefore securing competitiveness. For this, general consumers aged over 20 years were surveyed for 5 weeks from Feb 23 through Mar 30, 2015, and 447 empirical data (response rate 88.9%) were processed through SPSS WIN 21.0 program for analysis. To conduct gender difference analysis on the IPA of the selection attributes of functional cosmetics, 17 selection attributes were categorized into 4 factors: functionality, labeling, popularity, and product. Cronbach's alpha for all factors was 0.5, proving the internal consistency and reliability of the survey. The survey results showed that while the entire average came out significantly higher for females (5.89/7points) than for males (5.66/7points) (p<0.001), the selection attributes 'anti-wrinkling', 'whitening function', 'functionality', 'expiration date', 'full ingredient labeling system' and 'various promotional events' showed significant gender differences. IPA results pertaining to gender showed 'price', 'functionality', 'spreadability' and 'full ingredient labeling system' as 2nd quadrant attributes, whereas female consumers selected 'price', 'whitening function', 'anti-wrinkling', 'functionality' and 'full ingredient labeling system' as attributes. Results show that businesses in the field of cosmetics and related areas need to prioritize improving the following factors that received low satisfaction from all consumers: 'price', 'functionality', and 'total labeling.' In particular, the 'price' aspects are considered to require reasonable and affordable pricing.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.61-68
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• 2017

In this study, extracts from Caryopteris incana Miq. (C. incana) were investigated to assess anti-oxidation, skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. The total phenolic compounds of C. incana extracts with water and 80 % ethanol showed 7.69 and 12.50 mg/g respectively. Antioxidation activity of C. incana extracts was measured by using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), protection factor (PF), and Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARs). At concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$, the DPPH free radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were 84 and 92 %, respectively. ABTS radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were both at approximately 99 %. Antioxidant PF of water and ethanol extracts were 1.56 PF and 1.67 PF, respectively. The TBARs of water and ethanol extracts were 62 and 82 %, respectively. In anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening activity, 80 % ethanol extract had more outstanding effect than water extract at concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$. The levels of elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity related with anti-wrinkle were 58 and 89 % in ethanol extract. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity related with skin-whitening was 13 % in ethanol extract. The astringent effect of ethanol extract was 50 %. Throughout the results, C. incana extracts showed an excellent effect on anti-oxidation, skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. Therefore, C. incana extracts can be used as a new material for cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.175-182
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• 2021

Saccharomyces lysate has the well-known function of soothing the skin in various ways: it is an anti-irritant and can treat skin care conditions, such as skin whitening and antioxidative activity. However, data on the safety for use of Saccharomyces lysate in cosmetics and skin care products are still limited. To design a new cosmetic material with antioxidant and skin-whitening effects, 80 yeast strains were isolated from berries grown in Sunchang. Among the isolates, the FT4-4 strain, which exhibited superior biological activities, was selected for further experiments. The FT4-4 strain was identified as Saccharomyces cerevisiae by 18S rRNA gene sequencing analysis. S. cerevisiae FT4-4 showed higher DPPH radical-scavenging (51.41%), superoxide dismutase (62.23%), and tyrosinase inhibition (64.75%) activities. The highest yield of biomass (3.16 g/l) and maximum growth rate of S. cerevisiae FT4-4 were observed within 16 h. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity potential of S. cerevisiae FT4-4 on B16F10 melanoma cells was measured by an MTT assay, and the results indicated that S. cerevisiae FT4-4 had a capacity to inhibit melanin up to 72.02% at an initial 10 mg/ml concentration. These results suggest that S. cerevisiae FT4-4 could be a promising candidate as a multi-functional material for application in the cosmetic industry, especially because of its antioxidant and skin-whitening effects.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.1496-1506
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• 2020

This study was conducted as follows in order to find out the possibility of using (Chamaecyparis obtusa) by part as a cosmetic material. Chamaecyparis obtusa was separated leaves, bark, wood, and root, and extracted with 99.9% ethanol, and the antioxidant and whitening effects of the sample were confirmed. For this, the following studies were conducted. Antioxidant evaluation was confirmed by 1 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, 2 2′-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS+) radical scavenging activity. To evaluate the whitening effect, mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity evaluation and cytotoxicity evaluation of Chamaecyparis obtusa extract through MTT assay were conducted, and cellular tyrosinase inhibition rate was measured and melanin contents was confirmed. As a result of antioxidant activity, Bark extract among Chamaecyparis obtusa parts showed the best efficacy, and bark in B16F10 melanoma cell showed tyrosinase activity inhibition and melanin contents inhibitory effects. Therefore, it was confirmed that the ethanol extract of Chamaecyparis obtusa was developed as a natural material for safe and excellent whitening functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.421-432
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• 2016

In order to find new functional materials for the cosmetics application, we investigated anti-inflammatory and whitening effects of the Protaetia brevitarsis seulensis (P. brevitarsis) extracts, which were prepared by the various oriental conversion methods, as follows; fresh, roasted one time, roasted two times, roasted three times, and steamed. 2,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities of the various solvent extracts (80% ethanol, 50% ethanol, ethyl acetate, hexane) of P. brevitarsis extracts were 85.5, 22.4, 37.0 and 19.4% respectively. The 80% ethanol extract with the highest antioxidant activity was used for all experiments. In case of antioxidant activity test of the extracts, all the extracts showed the activities in concentration dependent manner regardless of the sample preparation methods. Superoxide dismutase-like (SOD-like) activities of the extracts roasted three times and steamed were 62.9 and 55.9%, respectively in $500{\mu}g/mL$. Effects of extracts on the inflammation of RAW 264.7 cell induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) showed decreasing tendency of $NO{\cdot}$ and prostaglandin $E_2$ ($PGE_2$) production; PBS fresh (38.0%), PBS roasted one time (41.0%), PBS roasted two times (69.8%), PBS roasted three times (70.1%), PBS steamed (78.5%). Intracellular tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis inhibitory activities of the extracts were decreased in a concentration dependent manner. However, the fresh P. brevitarsis extracts without the oriental conversion method showed 90.7% decrease compared to the control group treated with ${\alpha}$-MSH alone at $500{\mu}g/mL$. Taken together, these results suggest the oriental conversion method can be applied in development of cosmetic materials in order to improve anti-inflammatory and whitening effects of the cosmetics products.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.305-313
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• 2021

This study verified the antioxidant and whitening activities of a Pinus koraiensis extract (PK) and a Hibiscus cannabinus L. extract (HC), and further evaluated the interaction of the extract ingredients when mixed at a 1:1 ratio (PKHC). The electron-donating and ABTS+ radical scavenging activities of the PKHC extract at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration were 93.7% and 94%, respectively, indicating a higher efficacy than achieved with either extract alone. Measurements of the tyrosinase the activities in response to PK, HC, and PKHC extracts at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentrations showed inhibitions of 40%, 27.5%, and 43%, respectively, confirming a higher efficacy of the mixture due to the synergistic action of the ingredients. The cell toxicity values in melanoma cells treated with PK, HC, and PKHC at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration were 87.4%, 80.2%, and 98%, confirming a higher viability in cells treated with the mixture due to antagonism. The expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2), and tyrosinase protein expression determined by Western blotting decreased by 53.9%, 64.8%, 67.3%, and 56.1%, respectively, when PKHC was administered at a concentration of 100 ㎍/ml. Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT- PCR) results also showed that PKHC at a concentration of 100 ㎍/ml inhibited the mRNA expression of MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase mRNA by 54.4%, 64.9%, 66.6%, and 63.1%, respectively. Taken together, the data confirmed the antioxidant and whitening effect of the PKHC extract and verified the possibility that this extract mixture has great potential as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.430-437
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• 2022

We conducted a study on the whitening activity of Abies nephrolepis MAX. extracts. The electron-donating ability of 70% ethanol extracts from A. nephrolepis MAX. Stem (AN-S) and A. nephrolepis MAX. Leaf (AN-L) were found to be 89.4% and 90.9% at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration, respectively. Their ABTS⁺ radical scavenging abilities were found to be 88.8% and 96% 500 ㎍/ml concentration, respectively. Their tyrosinase inhibitory effects were found to be 48.5% and 31.1% at 500 ㎍/ml concentration, respectively. Cell survival rates measured in B16F10 were examined with the AN-S and AN-L extracts. Results showed cell viabilities of 98.3% and 94.4% at 500 ㎍/ml concentration, respectively. The protein and mRNA expression inhibitory effects of AN-S and AN-L extracts were measured by Western blotting and RT-PCR, respectively, at 25, 50 and 100 ㎍/ml concentrations. The results of western blotting showed that the AN-S extract at 100 ㎍/ml concentration decreased the TRP-1 protein expression rate by 46%. The results of Western blotting also showed that the AN-L extract at 100 ㎍/ml concentration decreased the MITF protein expression rate was by 54.6%. Consequently, in the case of MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase, the amount of mRNA expressed decreased as the concentration of the extracts increased. Our results suggested that A. nephrolepis MAX. extracts can be used as a functional cosmetic material by confirming that they can be used as a whitening material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2020

In this study, we investigated anti-pigmentation effect of a hexapeptide. The peptide significantly reduced melanin contents and inhibited tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, in which tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanogenesis. The peptide also significantly reduced the expression levels of tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1) and their upstream transcription factor, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Furthermore, the peptide suppressed the phosphorylation level of cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB), a transcription factor of MITF, and increased the phosphorylation level of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), a kinase mediates MITF phosphorylation and proteasomal degradation. The peptide significantly inhibited the expression of Rab27A, Melanophilin, and MyosinVa, the components of motor complex involved in intracellular movement of melanosome. These results suggest that Hexapeptide could be used as an effective whitening agent that has inhibitory effect on melanin production and melanosome transport by regulating expression and degradation of MITF in melanocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.197-201
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• 2007

Oil soluble licorice extract(licorice extract) is an officially approved cosmetic component as a whitening ingredient in Korea. The durability of licorice, during which the whitening effect can be maintained in optimum condition, must be accurately defined. Since the cosmetics durability under real condition is relatively longer than its development time. It is needed to predict the real durability interval from the experimental measurement under simulated operating conditions. We analyzed the relationship between the licorice lifetime and the high temperature condition by using Arrhenius equation. We have established the constant stress test with temperature of $50^{\circ}C$, $55^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$ condition, within which no formulation change of licorice products is expected for the accelerated stress test. In this paper, the lifetime of licorice in cosmetics was defined as time period for its 10% contents reduction. We observed that the lifetime of licorice is 580 h at $50^{\circ}C$, 319 h at $55^{\circ}C$ and 166 h at $60^{\circ}C$. Using the above experimental data, we obtained the equation for the relationship between the licorice lifetime and temperature as follows; log(lifetime)=-35.0243 + 1.15322$\times$(11604.83/temperature). From this equation, the lifetime of licorice at $25^{\circ}C$ can be estimated as 26 months. The estimated result was verified by measuring full lifetime of licorice. In fact, there was no significant difference between the estimated lifetime and real measurement within 95 % significance level. This study can be applied to other useful cosmetic components for the fast estimation of the exact durability.

• Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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• v.110 no.2
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• pp.254-265
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• 2021

As a result of measuring the polyphenol content of Humulus japonicus (HJ) extract according to the collection time and extraction solvent, bothhot water extract and 70% ethanol extract were collected and extracted in June, and the polyphenol content was high. When the harvesting time was the same, the polyphenol content of the ethanol extract was higher than that of the hot water extract. As a result of measuring the antioxidant activity of HJ extract by measuring electron-donating ability, SOD-like activity, and ABTS radical scavenging ability, HJ6E, which has the highest polyphenol content, showed the highest activity. In addition, in the case of the extract collected in August, the polyphenol content was similar. However, the antioxidant activity of the ethanol extract was high, sothe antioxidant activity remained high when extracted with 70% ethanol. As a result of measuring tyrosinase inhibitory activity for evaluating skin whitening activity, HJ6W did not show any activity. The activity at the highest concentration was 16.18% for HJ8W, 8.07% for HJ6E, and 14.7% for HJ8E. Therefore, the content of ingredients showing skin whitening activity was higher in August than in June. In the elastase inhibitory activity for evaluating the anti-wrinkle activityof the skin, the ethanol extract showed very little activity, and the hot water extract did not. In addition, since all extracts do not show astringent activity, it is judged that it is not appropriate to use HJ as a functional ingredient for preventing wrinkle formation. As a result of measuring the cell viability of HJ6E, which showed the highest polyphenol content and antioxidant activity, it showed a cell proliferation effect at low concentrationsbut strong cytotoxicity at concentrations above 50 ㎍/mL. In the case of the NO production inhibitory ability, as the concentration increased, the NO production of Raw 264.7 was suppressed. Theamount of NO production at 1,000 ㎍/mL decreased to 40.7%. However, whether these results are due to cytotoxicity or the extract's efficacy is a part that requires further research.