• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.209-217
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• 2007

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin from UV radiation and determines the race and skin color. Melanin is also major target for developing skin-whitening cosmeceuticals. Recently, as the market size of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals has rapidly expanded, related researches and developments are also focused on maximizing the safety and efficacy. Also, patents of skin-whitening materials have been increasing steadily for ensuring the competitive power. Patent also shows the research trend of industry and institutes. In this review, we analyze the trend of research and development based on the patent application of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.654-661
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• 2021

In this study, in order to isolate excellent whitening agents from fungal cultural broth, various fungi were collected from wild areas in South Korea and then screened for tyrosinase inhibition activity, as tyrosinase is a precursor for the biosynthesis of melanin in regulating skin color. A fungus strain that inhibits tyrosinase activity has been identified and confirmed as Trichoderma viridescens (later renamed T. viridescens SW-1) via ITS sequencing. In T. viridescens SW-1, tyrosinase inhibitory activity was strongest on day three of culture. A 5% culture broth showed a tyrosinase inhibitory activity greater than 90% and exhibited high thermostability on day three. At 10% culture broth, the accumulations of intra- and extracellular melanin were inhibited above 27.1% and 7.5%, respectively. In summary, the physical and functional properties of the tyrosinase inhibitory substances of T. viridescens SW-1 included high levels of inhibition of melanin synthesis and antioxidative activity as well as thermostability. Therefore, we suggest that the whitening substance identified from the cultural broth of T. viridescens SW-1 has potential for application as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• ALGAE
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.177-185
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• 2019

Ecklonia cava is popular in Korea as a marine functional materials. E. cava is generally collected and used on the coast of Jeju Island. However, the continuous use of collected natural E. cava may be limited because difficult to secure throughout the year and may be exposed to environmental pollution. Jeju magma seawater (MSW) was known to be significant advantages such as safety, cleanness, stability, and functional improvement. Attempts have been reported on application of MSW to the culturing of macro- and microalgae and showed improved results. Thus, the objective of the present study was to explore the anti-melanogenesis activity of brown seaweed E. cava (E. cava cultured with MSW [MSWE]) extract cultured in tanks with MSW of Jeju Island to evaluate the possibility of cosmeceutical industrial application. MSWE extract showed the higher polyphenolic and dieckol contents than natural E. cava (NE) extract. Anti-melanogenesis activity of MSWE extract and NE extract are tested and compared using tyrosinase and dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) oxidation inhibition assay. MSWE extracts evidenced more effective tyrosinase and DOPA oxidation inhibition activity than that of the NE extracts and the commercial whitening agent, arbutin. MSWE extracts also markedly inhibited melanin synthesis and decreased the expression of melanogenesis-related protein in ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells without cytotoxicity. These results suggest that MSW cultivation process would be more effective in releasing bioactive compounds with whitening effect from seaweed such as E. cava at an industrial scale.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.331-339
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• 2022

Melanin is a pigment produced by melanocytes to protect the skin from external stimuli, mainly ultraviolet (UV) rays. However, abnormal and excessive production of melanin causes hyperpigmentation disorders, such as freckles, age spots, and discoloration. Natural cosmeceuticals are a new trend for treating or preventing hyperpigmentation due to fewer side effects and biocompatibility. In this context, the current study focused on Cnidium japonicum, a halophyte with several uses in folk medicine, to evaluate its potential as a skin-whitening agent. The effect of C. japonicum extract (CJE) on melanin production was analyzed in melanogenesis-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. The results showed that CJE successfully inhibited the oxidation of tyrosine and L-DOPA by tyrosinase and subsequently decreased the production of the key enzymes responsible for melanin production: tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and protein-2. This effect was confirmed by decreased intracellular and extracellular melanin levels in B16F10 melanoma cells after CJE treatment. Further experiments to elucidate the action mechanism revealed that CJE treatment suppressed melanin production by inhibiting the activation of glycogen synthase kinase 3 β (GSKβ)/β-catenin and protein kinase A (PKA)/cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB) pathways, which are the upstream activators of melanogenesis. In conclusion, the present study suggests that C. japonicum is a potential natural source of bioactive substances for the development of novel cosmeceuticals that can act against hyperpigmentation.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.79-92
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• 2007

Oxidative stress have known to be a risk factor for the degenerative processes and closely related to a lot of diseases. It is well established that antioxidants are good in protection and therapeutic means against oxidative damage. There is increasing interest in natural antioxidants and many natural antioxidants have been found and utilized as the possible protection for various diseases and skin aging. We have screened natural antioxidant agents for cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, and drugs as therapeutic and preventive means against oxidative stress, and have developed a number of novel antioxidants from various natural sources. A novel melanin synthesis inhibitor, Melanocin A, isolated from the metabolite of a fungal strain Eupenicillium shearii F80695 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis of B16 melanoma cells with $IC_{50}$ value of 9.0 nM and MIC value of $0.9\;{\mu}M$, respectively. Melanocin A also exhibited potent antioxidant activity by scavenging of DPPH and superoxide anion radicals. UV was found to increase the level of hydrogen peroxides and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin tissues. This increase in ROS may not only alter the structure and function of many genes and proteins directly but may also modulate their expressions through signal transduction pathways and, ultimately, lead to skin damage. We investigated the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced premature skin aging. Firstly, the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 expression in an immortalized human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT in vitro was investigated. Acute UV irradiation induced MMP-9 expression at both the mRNA and protein levels and Melanocin A suppressed this expression in a dose-dependent manner. We then investigated UV-induced skin changes in hairless mice in vivo by Melanocin A. Chronic exposure of hairless mouse dorsal skin to UV increased skin thickness and induced wrinkle formation and the gelatinase activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9. Moreover, Melanocin A significantly suppressed UV-induced morphologic skin changes and MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression. These results show that Melanocin A can prevent the harmful effects of UV that lead to skin aging. Therefore, we suggest that Melanocin A should be viewed as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and/or treating premature skin aging. Terrein is a bioactive fungal metabolite isolated from Penicillium species. Terrein has a relatively simple structure and can be easily synthesized. However, the biologic effects of terrein are comparatively unknown. We found for the first time that terrein potently inhibit melanin production in melanocytes and has a strong hypopigmentary effect in a spontaneously immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, Mel-Ab. Treatment of Mel-Ab cells with terrein (10-100 mM) for 4 days significantly reduced melanin levels in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, terrein at the same concentration also reduced tyrosinase activity. We then investigated whether terrein influences the extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) pathway and the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which is required for tyrosinase expression. Terrein was found to induce sustained ERK activation and MITF down-regulation, and luciferase assays showed that terrein inhibits MITF promoter activity in a dose-dependent manner. To elucidate the correlation between ERK pathway activation and a decreased MITF transcriptional level, PD98059, a specific inhibitor of the ERK pathway, was applied before terrain treatment and found to abrogate the terrein-induced MITF attenuation. Terrein also reduced the tyrosinase protein level for at least 72 h. These results suggest that terrain reduces melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production via ERK activation, and that this is followed by MITF down-regulation.