• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.129-144
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• 2000

In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.367-374
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• 2003

When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.114-115
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• 2005

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.1-9
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• 1981

The object of this study lies in reviewing of the western costume history in the light of the negative regulations concerning costumes and adornments. Readings related with the subject lead to the following findings; 1. the principal purpose of the sumptuary laws has relationship with the social stratification of the feudalism and the frequency of their occurrence is related with the formation of feudal system, its decline, the appearance of imperial regimes and the start of civil revolutions. 2. Sumptuary regulations spread westward with the flow of civilization, eg., in the sequence of Italy, swiss, France, Britain and new world. 3. Sumptuary laws are also found in abundance in the english colonies of America, and their object seems to be rather of the moral concern than class distinction of economical restriction.4. The reviewed sumptuary regulations are concerned with : A. Material gold or silver clothes, silks, ermine, marten or miniver furs, velvets, laces and embroies. B. Colors-Purple, scarlet and red. Other colors do not show consistent pattern of color-status symbol; C. Form-Length and width of headdresses, shoes, collars, trains or hoops. E. numbers of dresses allowed to be worn.

• 대한한의학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.397-411
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• 1994

In the Oriental Medicine, the element of coldness is regarded as one of the important causes which induce female's diseases. Nowadays the number of the female patients is ascending that serously appeal the coldness-sense and pain-sense at the particular part of the body, for example, hand, foot, abdomen, waist, external genital portion and so on. These are caused by female's physiological characteristics of the menstration and delivery, and the influence of the life circumstances, for example, the clothes briefness, the overdiet, oversetting of the airconditioner. The Female's Part-Coldness Syndrome is a disease which the oriental people better than the western people suffer from and if it would be sick for a long time, it could brings into the other diseases. The Oriental Medicine have better effects by the diagnosis and treatment according per symptom in the contrast with the Western Medicine having difficulties in the point of accurate diagnosis and treatment.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.50-60
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• 2005

This research analyzes whether affected some South Korea woman's hair style comparing change of West woman's head form after the mid-1940s. This research purpose is analyze effect that examine South Korea woman and West woman's hair style and compare change special quality and get in our country hair style until 1980 after the mid-1940s. This dissertation is literature research that analyze change process of West woman's hair style and South Korea woman's hair style. Investigation method utilized dress and its ornaments connection books and treatise, beauty art connection books and treatise such as the South Korea and western dress and its ornaments. The following is the chronological analysis of the influence the western hairstyle has had on the Korean women. The hairstyles in Korea have been profoundly influenced by the western culture, especially the western makeup styles and hairstyles. Therefore, exploration of the western hair and makeup-styling conveys a great significance in conducting researches on the Korean hairstyles. Conclusion of this research is hair style of our country received much effects from make-up culture specially Occidentalism, hair style culture by each age, European beauty art culture research can assume that scientific analysis of west woman's clothes and make-up is important in our country hair style research. In the future, it is believed that the cycle of changes in hair-styling will get remarkable shortened with the advance in the computer technology, which enables the world to have a much faster access to other cultures over the Internet.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.30-49
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• 2009

This study was intended to research how such Japonisme affected the western fashion and to consider that the unique Japanese fashion was implemented in the western mode as the traditional aesthetic sense got jointed with the western culture together and was expressed as the modern Japonisme beauty. The beauty of 'Date' was the aesthetic sense created focused on the noble culture of public family. On the contrary, 'Iki', 'Wabi', 'Sabi' and 'Shibusa' is the Japanese lower middle class's universal living aesthetics. 'Kawaii' is influence on an animation, cartoon and character industry as well as the whole world’s fashion style as one of the common aesthetic sense of the world people in the modern time. That is, Japanese fashion designers expressed the human body with such the aesthetic sense by the design of shape, space, fusion, amusement through clothes. It could be concluded that they created an autonomous amusement’s design world over the visual beauty of human body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.230-241
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify frequency of advertisement and types of advertisement by items and to analyze a primary factors were factors were reflected in the costumes by a policy of rule under the Japanese rule. Data was MaIl Shin Bo\`s advertisement connected with costumes from 1910 to 1945 years. The results are as follows : 1. The order of the advertisement\`s frequency was footwear, cosmetics, soap[, headgear, western style clothes, precious metals and so on. 2. The type of the advertisement was a format that transmits informs in all items. Cosmetics, hairdye and shampoo applied positive appeals. 3. In the military government, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 37.5% and a shoe store was the first order. A shoes and headgear were high level, because of these were essential imports and were allowded as a proper articles for a western style clothes by a civilized policy. In the political periods of civilization, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 54%. This result indicates industrial development of this period. Soap was the first order during 1924∼1933 and cosmetics was the first order during 1934∼1940. High level of the advertisement\`s frequency in these imports were reflected by a cultural policy as a link of an appeasement measure In the political periods of a racial liquidation, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 8.5% and the advertisement\`s order by items was cosmetics, a shoe store. The reason was that reflected the phases of the times that was serious by a shortage of goods and an reinforcement of wartime\`s attitudes throughout war.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2005

This study is to research the types and formation of the pieces for fastening the clothing in the western and oriental world from 18c to 19c. The pieces for fastening the clothing, depending on their formation, are classified as the ribbon type, the belt type, the button type, and the compound type. The ribbon type indicates fastening the clothing with the strips attached to the clothes. It is divided into the symmetry type and the asymmetry type by the looks of the ribbon alter it is tied. The belt type means fastening the clothing with a string or a belt, separated from the clothes. It is divided into the string type and the belt type. The button type is to fasten the clothing with buttons, button holes, and hooks. It is divided into the basic type, the wrapping type, and the knot type. The compound type is a mixture of two or three types out of the ribbon type, the belt type, and the button type. The pieces for fastening the clothing has aesthetic features as well as their functional characteristics. It has beautiful features like the harmonious beauty of Yin and Yen shown in the asymmetrical types, the beauty of spell wishing for health, long-life, wealth, wisdom, and so on, the beauty of decency showing the intention of refraining from exposing their body in public, the beauty of eroticism emphasizing the beauty of the human body, and the beauty of representing their social class, authority, affiliation, and so on.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2004

Korea had suffered the colony of Japanese imperialism and the Korean War from the invasion of the external circumstances. Such special situation made new influences on the clothing habits. The types of Korean women clothing could escape from the traditional style that had been maintained for thousands of years. The foreign clothes for Korean women had undergone various changes from the Liberation in 1945. The jackets that had been introduced to Korea at the Enlightenment period had become popular outfits for men. The jackets made big influences on the changes such as the social advances for women from the times background of the Liberation. The jackets possess very important meaning for the changes in the diffusion of feminism and fashion. Therefore, this research tries to investigate the forms, silhouettes, changes and structures of the jackets such as the locations of the collar, the sleeve, and the waste line. The process of the changes in the style of women jackets is also analyzed from the silhouette and the structure method. The development and changes will be understood of Korean women's jackets. The Korean women's jackets should also be examined further with the history of foreign clothing from now on. The fashion to be introduced from important society cultural phenomena and the Western Europe has been reflected into the changes in the style of Korean female jackets. Also, dramatic changes in the style of clothing indicate that the society had experienced a great deal of changes. It is verified that foreign clothes have been interacted with the stream of times worldwide. After the Liberation, the female jackets become a uniform style which just followed the Western European style. However, a season trend has been announced from the SFAA since 1990. Since then trendy jackets have been detailed more with this chance.