• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권5호
• /
• pp.756-761
• /
• 2008

In this paper, silver slit yarns combined with cotton yarns were used to produce weft knits. The purpose of this study was to investigate the physical properties as well as the functional properties of weft knit with silver slit yarns. The six different weft knit fabrics were made from silver slit yarns varying knit structure and fabric density. One cotton weft knit was also knitted to compare the properties. Weft knits made from silver slit yarns were characterized by excellent antibacterial properties, electric magnetic shielding properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability. Although there were significant differences in the physical properties of different knit structure and the fabric density, weft knits with silver slit yarns were seen to have better end use properties and ideal for apparel than the cotton weft knits.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권1호
• /
• pp.170-181
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of knit structure and knit density (machine tightness factor) on the dimensional properties and K1-4 values of weft-knitted fabrics followed over eleven cycles of mechanical relaxation to provide the basic data for constructing weft-knitted fabrics for outwear with excellent dimensional stability The eighteenth weft-knitted fabrics were produced with different knit structure (1$\times$1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single pique, crossmiss interlock) and machine tightness factor (loose, medium, tight) for this study. Dimensional properties such as width, lengh, area shrinkage and dimensional parameter (K) of eighteenth knitted fabrics including thickness and bulk property were measured. The results were as follows; 1. The dimensional behavior of the Ix1 rib and interlock in relaxation cycles was anisotropic, i.e., length shrinkage was usually associated with a width expansion, whereas the other weft-kntted fabrics which have tuck or miss loops in the knit structure behaved isotropically, i.e., length and width shrinkages were usually found. It was proposed that the difference in dimensional behavior between these structures was due to the dissimilar nonrelaxed geometrical shapes of the individual structural units forming these weft-knitted structures. The mechanical relaxation shrinkage of weft-knitted cotton fabrics was dependent on the tightness of construction. For a range of fabrics knitted on this study, an increase in fabric tightness caused a decrease in the length shrinkage of the fabric accompanied by an increase in its width shrinkage.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제6권5호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2002

Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.295-304
• /
• 2006

High-bulk worsted yams with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yams and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and $2000 g/cm^2$) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40 % shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yam bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V') which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knit-miss structures. In addition, at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.665-671
• /
• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제45권1호
• /
• pp.46-55
• /
• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권3호
• /
• pp.79-92
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권6호
• /
• pp.870-879
• /
• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제26권3호
• /
• pp.163-177
• /
• 2024

Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.