• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.37-49
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of the twill damask fabrics through literatures review of both domestic and Chinese documents and records. In addition, the study aims to review the characteristics of the twill damask fabrics found at Sukga Pagoda. The twill damask fabrics can be categorized in terms of the weaving method into Float Pattern on a Tabby Ground, Twill Pattern on a Tabby Ground, Float Pattern on a Twill Ground, Twill Pattern on a Twill Ground, and Without Pattern on a Twill Ground. The fabrics ran also be divided in terms of their name into Ki, Neung, and Munju. Four items of twill damask fabrics were found inside the Sukga Pagoda. All of them are Twill Pattern on a Twill Ground. At the primitive level of weaving skill, twill damask fabric was made by adding patterns with twill damask or BuJik on the background of plain weave. At more advanced level, the fabrics are weaved by making patterns with twill damask or BuJik on the background of twill damask. Compared to the relics of Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, these twill damask fabrics were loosely weaved with relatively thick thread.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• Composites Research
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-35
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• 2003

In this paper. various tow parameters such as equivalent tow thickness, amplitude of longitudinal tow and tow intervals were investigated and compared with each other by using microscopic observation to find out the exact deformation patterns between both directions of the fabric structure(Longitudinal and Transverse Directions). And those observation results were compared with bias extension. biaxial tests results with dry fabric which has the same tow structure as the draped helmet materials and also compared with prepreg specimen which is cured by autoclave moulding without vacuum and pressure condition. Specimens for the observation were taken from draped helmet which is made of fabric composite(Five Harness Satin Weave). From the observation results, it was found that there are different deformation pattern between tow directions and effect of geometric condition on the deformation of the fabric materials during draping process was verified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.43-55
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• 2005

This research was designed to investigate and compare the characteristics of preferred clothing textiles for slacks and skirt of college students. One hundred five subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed and the subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in a swatch book. The subject's weighted frequencies were added tv order of preference. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In the spring and fall seasons, black twill cotton drill was preferred foremost as a textile for slacks, and medium gray basket weaved cotton pinhead with stripe pattern was preferred as a textile for skirts. 2. In summer, dark bluish gray plain linen crash was the most preferred material for slacks, and pale yellow plain linen tropical cloth was preferred for skirts. 3. In winter, olive gray cotton corduroy was the most favorite textile for slacks, and moderate brown twill wool hound check was preferred for the skirt. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those chosen for other seasons, and textiles for skirts showed various thicknesses and weights as compared with those of slacks. 5. In fiber content, natural fibers such as cotton and wool were preferred for an seasons. 6. In the weave of textiles, twiu we,3ve was preferred for spring, fall and winter season, and plain weave was preferred for summer. 7 The most preferred colors for slacks were B and PB, and those for the skirts were YR and PB. For color characteristics, solid fabrics were generally preferred, and patterned fabrics were preferred for skirts as compared with slacks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.65-87
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• 1982

1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2005.04a
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• pp.154-157
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• 2005

This paper aims to investigate the tow deformation pattern with respect to shear angle and mold property during draping of plain weave carbon/epoxy prepreg. Aluminum and PVC foams with different foam density are used for the draping hemisphere molds with 250 mm diameters. Microscopic observation reveals that tow parameters like crimp angle and Y-directional tow intervals are influenced by shear angle and mold density at the same time. The correlation between crimp angle and Y-directional tow interval is also found out.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.91-94
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• 2003

Laminated composites are liable to fatal damage under impact load due to the fact that they have no reinforcement in the thickness direction. To overcome the inherent weakness, three dimensional (3D) textile reinforcements have drawn much interests. In this paper, impact performance of 2D and 3D textile composites has been characterized. For 2D composites, fiber bundle size and fiber pattern have been varied. For 3D composites, orthogonal woven preforms of different density and type of through-thickness fibers have been studied. To assess the damage after the impact loading, specimens were subjected to C-scan nondestuctive inspection. Compression after impact (CAI) were also conducted in order to evaluate residual compressive strength.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.759-769
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• 2001

The principal purpose of this study is focused on the fabrics used in Kaya period by investigating the imprinted fabrics on the remains of the old tomb of Dohang-ri and Jeesan-dong which were built around the late 4th century to the late 6th century. Most of the remains are plain weaved, however there is one remain that 4-end complex gauze with patterned, and the other is weaved with geometrical pattern which were plain weave with 2 · 1 twill and 3 · 1 twill. The imprinted fabrics that had twists had S twists only. Of all the fabrics that were examined, the most loose one had the density of 8 × 6/cm, the most fine fabric had the weft density of 91.8 strands/cm and the warp density cannot be counted. It is No. 416 of Doharg-ri tomb that has the highest ratio of density as 3.15. All the fabrics observed by SEM and Polarizing Microscope are hemp.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.162-168
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• 2005

A methodology for the objective evaluation of water repellency is studied using image analysis of the sprayed pattern on woven fabrics according to a standard spray test (AATCC Test Method 22-2001). The wet area ratio obtained from the spray standard test ranking is found to be exponentially related with its water repellency rating. Mean filtering is used to remove the effect of weave texture and the transmitted light through interyarn spaces. The ring frame of the instrument and wet region are recognized using Otsu thresholding technique. And Hough transform and outline operation are used to obtain the size and position of the ring frame. The objective assessment of the water repellency using image processing can reduce unnecessary confusion in the subjective determination of the water repellency.