• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.6-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• 제77권5호
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• pp.651-659
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• 2021

In this study, a new constitutive model has been developed to predict the elastic behavior of plain weave textile composites, using the finite element (FE) method. The geometric conditions and basic assumptions of this model are based on the basics of a continuum theory developed for the plane curved composites. In this model, the mechanical properties of the weave region and pure matrix region is calculated separately and then imported for the FE analysis. This new constitutive model is used to implement the mechanical properties of weave region in the representative volume element (RVE). The constitutive relations are implemented as user-material subroutine code (UMAT) in ABAQUS® FE software. The results of FE analysis have been compared with experimental results and other data available in the literature. These comparisons confirmed the capability of the presented model for the prediction of effective elastic properties of plain weave fabric composites.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• 한국공간구조학회논문집
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.41-48
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• 2010

건축용 막재는 일반적으로 직포와 코팅으로 구성되며, PTFE 계열 막재는 유리섬유로 만들어진 직포에 테프론 코팅으로 구성된다. 일반적으로 PTFE 막재에 사용되는 직포에는 $\beta$-yarn이 주로 사용되며, $\beta$-yarn이 아닌 $\alpha$-yarn이 사용된 막재도 점차적으로 사용되는 시점이다. 그러나 $\alpha$-yarn으로 직조된 직포로 만들어진 건축용 막재의 특성에 관한 정보는 일반 막재에 비해 많이 부족한 편이다. 따라서 건축용 막재를 구성하는 직포를 만드는 원사의 굵기에 따른 막재의 역학적 특성에 대한 연구가 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 실험을 통하여 원사가 서로 다른 막재의 인장 특성을 비교 분석하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.153-165
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• 2008

The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권
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• pp.123-137
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• 1996

직조는 예술과 기술과의 상호 관계에 관심을 가지고 있는 디자이너에게 이상적인 연구 대상이다. 특히, 이중적인 4종광 이상의 제제에서 만들 수 있는 두 겹 직물로서 여러 가지 목적 및 기능에 따라 광폭 직물, 양면 무늬 직물, 등 특수 직물을 생산하기 위해 산업에서 사용되고 있다. 그러나 가 지니고 있는 매력적인 특징은 미적 이 요구되는 섬유 작업에서 의견로서 다양하게 응용되어질 수 있다. 본 논문은 문헌 자료와 sample 제작을 통해 이중 직의 개념과 종류 및 특징을 설명하였으며 이중 직을 연구한 작가들의 대표적 작품들을 분석함으로써 기법이 가지고 있는 잠재적 특성을 강조하였다. 이중 직 기법은 구조 및 의견 에 따라 다양한 이미지를 나타낼 수 있으므로 직조가 들이 기술에 의한 독특한 표현을 하여 시킬 수 있는 창조 적을 제시하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.272-278
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to research about Dobby weave design using Computer-Aided Weaving System. For performing this design study, first, it was researched the characteristics of the classified woven fabrics, weaving processing, structure of Dobby loom, and Computer-Aided Dobby Weaving system theoretically. To develop Dobby woven design, Patternland Weave Simulator(U.S.A) for computer weave system was used. Among the developed Dobby woven designs by computer weaving system, mainly three of them were selected and woven into Dobby loom. To see the visual image of the fabric end-use, some of the scanned Dobby fabrics were simulated to the three-dimensional virtual images by Alias CAD system. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. Before the step of weaving Dobby fabrics on the woven design works, Computer-Aided Weaving system can be done very easily to apply the design step of Dobby woven fabrics, specially in case of the complicated woven structure. Also the usage of the simulation CAD system in visual image of the final products, ultimately can be saved cost and developed the higher value-added goods in more response to consumer demands.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.79-84
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• 2006

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.