• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.6-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.77 no.5
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• pp.651-659
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• 2021

In this study, a new constitutive model has been developed to predict the elastic behavior of plain weave textile composites, using the finite element (FE) method. The geometric conditions and basic assumptions of this model are based on the basics of a continuum theory developed for the plane curved composites. In this model, the mechanical properties of the weave region and pure matrix region is calculated separately and then imported for the FE analysis. This new constitutive model is used to implement the mechanical properties of weave region in the representative volume element (RVE). The constitutive relations are implemented as user-material subroutine code (UMAT) in ABAQUS® FE software. The results of FE analysis have been compared with experimental results and other data available in the literature. These comparisons confirmed the capability of the presented model for the prediction of effective elastic properties of plain weave fabric composites.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.41-48
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• 2010

The architectural membrane generally consists of weave and coating, and the PTFE membrane consists of fiberglass weave and polytetrafluoroethylene coating. The weave is usually made of fiberglass $\beta$-yarn. The $\alpha$-yarn, which is thicker than $\beta$-yarn, is also increasingly used for the weave. However, the characteristic data of the architectural membrane that is made of $\alpha$-yarn weave is still insufficient. Therefore, further studies are needed on the mechanical characteristics of the membrane according to the thickness of the yarn used for the weave that comprises the architectural membrane. This study was performed to identify the mechanical behaviors of the membranes with $\alpha$-yarn and $\beta$-yarn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.153-165
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• 2008

The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13
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• pp.123-137
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• 1996

Weaving, is an ideal subject for study to designer who is concerned with interrelationship between art and technology. Double cloth is a two layered fabric that can be woven on the loom with more than 4 harnesses, is often used to produce special woven fabric such as double width fabric or reverse pattern fabric, etc, in textile industry. Because of the attractive characteristic of two layered structure, double cloth technique can be applied as expressive media in fiber art requiring aesthetics and creativty. in the work, the concept, types, and characteristics of double weave have been studied through literature survey and sample production and the potential characteristics of this technique is, especially, emphasized by analysing the representative works of artists specilized in a double weave. Double weave technique can provide various images or forms throught the variation of structures and expressive styles and therefore suggests another characteristic expression creative means for weaver to develope.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.272-278
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to research about Dobby weave design using Computer-Aided Weaving System. For performing this design study, first, it was researched the characteristics of the classified woven fabrics, weaving processing, structure of Dobby loom, and Computer-Aided Dobby Weaving system theoretically. To develop Dobby woven design, Patternland Weave Simulator(U.S.A) for computer weave system was used. Among the developed Dobby woven designs by computer weaving system, mainly three of them were selected and woven into Dobby loom. To see the visual image of the fabric end-use, some of the scanned Dobby fabrics were simulated to the three-dimensional virtual images by Alias CAD system. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. Before the step of weaving Dobby fabrics on the woven design works, Computer-Aided Weaving system can be done very easily to apply the design step of Dobby woven fabrics, specially in case of the complicated woven structure. Also the usage of the simulation CAD system in visual image of the final products, ultimately can be saved cost and developed the higher value-added goods in more response to consumer demands.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.79-84
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• 2006

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.