• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2005

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.73-90
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• 2011

Modern footwear is accepted as a fashion accessory that plays the role of a point of style, which reflects trends and makes use of individuality and stylishness, not a practical means itself. This study considers diverse types of western shoes, which had been historically popular from, and about a role in accordance with it, and grasps the occurrence background and the aesthetic characteristics in shoes type, which had initiated fashion in the historically cultural aspect. Thus, the aim is to be conducive to developing design related to modern shoes. As a result of this study, shoe styles have changed in relation to the historical situation throughout every period from medieval times to mid-modern times. Two functions of shoes, practicality and aesthetics, could be observed tendency of leading fashion in the middle of mutual control and supplementation according to social conditions, economic strength in a person of wearing shoes, social standing, and gender. Accordingly, considering that designs related to shoes are influenced by the historical conditions, continuous research on unique designs according to each era is thought to be necessary to develop shoe designs of the future.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• 복식
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• 제60권8호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2010

This study considered the characteristics and use of the jokduri during the 18th century, which was shown in Ijae-nan-go written by Yoon-Seok Hwang. In Ijae-nan-go, not only the origin of the jokduri, but also its colors, materials, sizes, and construction methods are recorded, in detail. The Jokdori is assumed to have been influenced by costumes of China. The 18th century jokduri is mainly made up of black satin, and is composed of eight pieces of cloth. This looks similar to a contemporary jokduri, but the 18th century jokduri is bigger. At court during the 18th century, women decorated their hair styles higher by using the jokduri. Not only did the jokduri fix the topknot at the top of a woman's hair by wrapping the topknot, but also it raised the height of the topknot. This is different from the generally known method of wearing jokduri. Therefore, this demonstrates that there have been changes in the role and use of the jokduri over time.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.504-513
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• 2013

This study evaluates the difference of visual effect according to pant style and geometric pattern. The researcher made 28 stimuli-combination of four pant Stiles (classic, baggy, skinny, and bell-bottom) and seven geometric pattern (large vertical stripe, small vertical stripe, large horizontal stripe, small horizontal stripe, large check, small check, and hound's tooth check). The test involved 96 female college students. The stimuli were made with the i-Designer computer program. The panels tested the computer screen images of all manikins wearing pants. A 7-point scale was used to evaluate each image. For the data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test were applied along with an SPSS program. The results of this study are as follows. Three factors (lower-body compensation, abdomen highlight, and length compensation) influenced the visual effect pant styles and geometric patterns. The skinny style and large vertical stripe evaluated positively in elongated height and leg length and a slimmer overall body. It was shown that the vertical stripe pattern was evaluated as more positive than the horizontal stripe pattern in the visual effect; particularly, the results showed distinct aspects in the classic pants style. The mutual influence of the visual effect (according to pants style and geometric pattern) were indicated as two factors of lower-body compensation and length compensation. A more positive visual effects resulted in a higher mutual influence on pant style and geometric pattern.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.121-128
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• 2009

The goal of this study is to investigate the current conditions of apparels for the handicapped, identify the problems and recommend what are appropriate and functional apparels for the handicapped. The research method was to statistically process a survey on 200 handicapped by frequency analysis and cross tabulations. The study results are as follows. First, the degree of discomfort in daily activities was shown during toilet use and eating. Among clothes categories owned by the handicapped, most discomfort was felt in the order of everyday clothes, workout clothes, underwear, athletic shoes and working clothes. Second, children's clothing was most commonly preferred clothing style by handicap for the dwarfism. Comfortable clothes was preferred and relaxed, decent, and unique styles were preferred in the order. Soft feeling texture and absorbency was considered important as preferred clothing material. Third, sizes and designs were improvements wanted by the handicapped in apparel in the order. In addition, they wanted to wear apparel sensitive to the fashion just like the non-handicapped without showing the handicapped parts. There is a necessity for the government or municipalitiesto establish and run protected workplaces or independent workplaces for those who have studied apparel. The field is thought to require continuous and numerous follow-up studies such as researches on different physiques, standardization of apparel, segmentation of sizes and methods of producing custom apparel by function and handicap.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.788-802
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• 2016

Sportswear transforms itself into a new fashion item to satisfy desires for beauty in addition to having functionality and movability for sports activities. Sportswear is not in fashion just temporarily but comes in various forms along with sociocultural phenomenon that put emphasis on well-being and leisure. This research aims to study the needs of the bikers who ride bicycles or cycles has become a popular outdoor activity, and give suggestions for high functional sports design that can satisfy the needs of the highly demanding taste of athletes. To understand the design development direction and design preference, practical consumer needs were derived through a survey analysis on bike wear purchasing satisfaction and actual wearing state by bike riders. For consumer needs analysis, focus group interview, in-depth interview and questionnaire method were used. Based on analysis of those researches, athleisure bike wears appropriate for urban sports activities were categorized into sports, life, fitness and leisure 4 styles for athleisure bike wear design development. It is believed that this study will contribute to in the category expansion of sports wear market and satisfy the consumer demands for functional and specialized casual bike wears as well as fashion factors optimized to life style of modern people.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.873-882
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• 2010

Knitwear has become a part of fashion since aristocratic trend-setters of Medieval Spain and France began wearing luxurious silk stockings. However, in more recent times knitwear emerged as a fashion item in the early 20th century when jersey two-piece Channel dresses became popular amongst the French upper classes. Knitwear then evolved into genuine going out clothes through Sonia Rykiel in the 1970s. Sonia Rykiel has made a great contribution to developing knitwear, which she transformed from being used only in informal dresses or clothes for home wear, to a boarder in use in high-quality dresses such as those worn at parties. Unlike most designers who tend to make very different styles each year, she has restricted her clothes to those made with knitwear. The study examined the designs and formative characteristics of her knitwear in order to clarify why Sonia Rykiel's knitwear fashion is apparently so timeless. Results showed that her garments consistently used black oriented color combination, strife patterns, intarsia techniques and application of diversified subordinate materials and other materials that overcome earlier limitations of knitwear. In addition, her designs consistently express the typically Parisian sophisticated urban femininity through practicality, sensuality and playfulness. Overall, her fashion has shown that it exists for women in action through practical design within the scope of demode, the philosophy in her early days, and it has led her to hold great power over knitwear fashion for the past 40 years.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.769-782
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• 1996

This study intends to contribute to developing an effective marketing strategy targeting women in their 40's and 50's by classifying them into social classes and analyzing their wearing and purchasing behavior. The subject of this study are 344 women in their 40's and 50's living in Seoul, and the model sampling is done by allotment sampling. Modified survey based on references and former studies is used, and SAS package is used for analysis. The results of data analysis are as follows: 1. Women in their 40's and 50's are classified into 3 social classes, and the most influencial factor in the classification of social class is found to be total monthly income. 2 Clothing image of which each social class wear are proven to be significantly different among 3 classes. However, specific garment styles they wear are proven not to be significantly different. 3. Clothing purchasing behavior factors such as informants, clothing selection standards, store selection standards, place of purchase, shopping time, frequency of purchase, price of purchase, and paying methods are proven to be significantly different among 3 social classes. 4. Marketing strategies for each social class are provided based on these results.