• Title/Summary/Keyword: way of ornament

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Presentation and Representation of Modernity in Modern Architecture - On Exclusion of Ornament and Emergence of the surface - (근대주의 건축에서 모더니티 표상의 문제 - 장식의 배제와 표면의 부각을 중심으로 -)

  • Khang, Hyuk
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.37-56
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    • 2006
  • Introducing International Style, P. Johnson and H. R. Hitchcock gave three standards to be the Modern, volume and surface, regularity, and exclusion of applied decoration. In spite of the negation of stylistic, formal approach in the Modernist Manifestoes, one usually have understood Modernity in Architecture with its formal character, especially with no ornament and flat, abstract, white surface. Modernism as a new paradigm in architecture have emphasized that there is no representation of anything outside and only present architecture in itself. They said that Modernism only cared about the language of Architecture without figural reference. So apparently there is no way to prove to its Modernity with formal condition. Modernity is in Spirit and contents. But actually we understand well its existence by visual communication This study deals with this difficult situation how Modernity represents itself without visual media and asks the question how simultaneously it presents its thingness and materiality In order to analyse contradictory situation between representation and presentation in Modern Architecture we need to survey the historical process of changing position of ornaments and its meaning in time. With the crisis of representation the role of ornament have seriously changed and divided. It caused the two situation in pre-Modern Architecture. Firstly, Architecture tend to be a high art and formal expression became important much more. The Use of Ornament became a kind of fashion to show the power, class, money. Secondly, Ornament lost its cultural weight and the structure and material aspect became the central in architecture. Rational Structuralism would be the essential character in Modern Architecture. Here the theory of G. Semper and A. Loos on cladding(dressing) and Ornament can help its problems and limits. In the situation without conventional ornament Modernists need to present modernity with new media that only show the thing itself and by that it does not represent any thing else as like the value, idea outside buildings. They believed that only it concerned esthetics and morality in architecture. But in reality it referred to art and machines as like ships, aircraft, and cars. By excluding Ornament and showing the process of clearing, abstract, flat, white surface 'represent' Modernity by the indirect way referring the concept of transparency, reason, sanitation, tectonics, etc. An Ideology and myth intervened architectural discourse to make the doxa about the representation in Architecture. Surface must be a different kind of media and message that can communicate in different way with compared to conventional Ornament. Decorated Shed by R. Venturi and Post-Functionalism by P. Eisenman, that are the most famous post-modern discourse, shows well difficult and contradictory condition in contemporary architecture concerning representation and form, meaning and form.

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A Study on Traditional Costume of the Minorities in Guizhou Province of China (중국(中國) 귀주성(貴州省) 소수민족(少數民族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Boo, Ae-Jin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.142-154
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    • 2003
  • This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.

Conservation of Dagger and Scabbard (Treasure No. 635) Excavated from Gyerim-ro, Gyeongju (경주 계림로 출토 보물 제635호 보검의 보존)

  • Shin, Yongbi;Jeong, Subin
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.11
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    • pp.1-8
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    • 2010
  • Conservation re-treatment of dagger and scabbard in Gyeongju National Museum, which were excavated from Gyerim-ro Tomb No. 14 (Treasure No. 635) was carried out after a wide-scale dissembling in order for publishing a report and holding a special exhibition. The interior shape of the iron dagger which was disclosed by ornament plates was confirmed by X-ray investigation. The results of XRF analysis which was used to analyse compositions of the golden ornament plates reveal that having more than 3% of copper distinguishes it from other Silla gold artifacts. The conservation treatment progressed in a way that surface contaminants were removed and insecure areas were consolidated. The original shape of the iron dagger and scabbard was found after adhering and restoration. With the ornament plates staying on the iron dagger, a stand in acrylic for display and storage was made, which is able to place the dagger and scabbard in the safest way.

A Study on the Hand-Knit Design (손뜨개 니트 디자인에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Eun-Jung;Yum, Hae-Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the social and cultural background of hand-knitting things with handcraft feeling which is appeared conspicuously after 2000. And to analyze the types and characteristics of hand-knit design. The resorts of this study is as follows: First, it is found that the pattern of stitch in their forms and ornament technique of handcraft feeling are the remarkable factors to decide the specific designs in the most of hand-knit designs. The major forms are plain stitch, rib stitch, cable stitch, lace stitch, relief stitch and pile stitch and the ornament techniques such as patch work, fringe, embroidery and collage are being widely used. Second, after 2000, due to peoples' preference for handcraft feeling manufactures, pursuit trend of artless luxury by retouch appeared, it made feeling for recurrence of the past and the warm humanity. In addition, the pro-eco trend using pro-environment materials and capturing the nature as images are on its way to advance. Through the mix & match of materials, details and items, it becomes possible to express many kinds of images. Thanks to those characteristics, the hand-knit designs are now acknowledged as luxurious with the couture sense attached and are shaking off their previous image of recycling.

A Study on the Traditional Dyeing of Korean buddhist Monk′s Robe (한국승복 염색에 대한 연구)

  • 차금주;정옥임
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.5
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    • pp.131-142
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    • 2000
  • The philological consideration of Korean Buddhist Monk's robe and its reviving have been investigated in traditional way. The configuration and colour of Korean Buddhist monk's robes have been properly adapted for an period, territory, and atmospheric phenomena. In case of Korea, introduced Buddhism from China realize modern robe from under the influence of fusion of Chinese ornament culture and Korean traditional ornament culture. As a result of this modern robe has been consisted of a Buddhist monk's robe and a cope. The modem robes has been significantly affected by industrialization, contrary to ancient time taxed robes as public imposts. At present be familiar in mass production we have a preference for the easier way in making and even color forming. In this paper it is focused on dyeing part, which recognized its important in latest time, at first declined according to appearance of chemical dye, evaluated its convenience in use. That is, it is increased natural dye, people begin with recognition of difference of physical properties for dress dyed with chemical pigment and that with natural pigment. In consequence, I have presented that both making colour of gray using traditional method, and three demolished-color prescribed by Buddhist law. Of course, though it become generally know that dyeing of robes occupied significant part of traditional natural dyeing. But in case of religion, it also is important to know symbolical meaning involved in its colour. Most of Buddhism-believers or even Buddhists who actually be dress in robe are without knowing the meaning of colour, or its revealing method. There, I have considered mating three colour of demolished- color included blue, black, and red, and also represented dyeing method of Buddhist monk's robe using both charcoal and ink-spick. From religious font of view, as robes contains involving of blessing, I have an intention of improvement way in dyeing and succession and development of traditional culture through consideration of traditional dyeing method. And I have also intended to restoration the value of robe's colour, disappeared by the time. moreover, I have shown that dyeing with natural pigment is profitable for both environment and sanitary aspect.

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A Study on Adolf Loos's thought about Modernity and his Works of Houses (근대성과 관련한 Adolf Loos의 사상과 주거건축에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Kyung-Ho
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.15 no.5 s.58
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    • pp.36-43
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    • 2006
  • Architecture is the product of a way of thinking. If the problems of architecture are to be traced to their roots, then attention needs to be focused on the thinking and considerations that inform its production. Adolf Loos occupies a truly exceptional place in the history of architecture. Adolf Loos's ideas and attitudes disagree with the notion that modernity is possible to develop a harmonious culture within the bounds of a modernizing society. Loos chronologically precedes the modern movement, but his ideas contain the seeds of what will be worked out later as a complex critique of the movement's notions about architecture and modernity. Loos holds the view that modernity provokes an inevitable rupture with tradition that has as a consequence the disintegration of one's experience of life. This evolution, he think, obliges architecture to display a number of languages corresponding to a multitude of different experiences. Through the discussion of Loos's opinions on dwelling and architecture, it explores the true features of position of Loos in modern architecture. Loos thinks that the rejection of the deliberate creation of a new style was a correct response to the diagnosis of life as being rootless and fragmented. Ornament is that which people use to attempt to relate different aspects of life and to join inner and outer worlds in a coherent whole. By getting rid of ornament the illusion is destroyed that a harmonious unity of this sort is still possible. One can only remain true to tradition if one acknowledges that its continuity is not an unbroken one. Dwelling can only be saved by separating it from other aspects of life.

Inframince in Contemporary Architectural Surfaces - On the Emergence of the Ornament in Modern and Contemporary Period - (현대건축 표면에서 나타난 앵프라맹스에 관한 연구 - 근/현대 장식성의 발현을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Jong-Hyun;Lee, Young-Soo
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.27 no.1
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    • pp.68-79
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    • 2018
  • The main purpose of this paper is to introduce 'Inframince' in modern and contemporary architecture. The Inframince(English: infra-thin) is a concept coined by Marcel Duchamp. The conceptual definition of the term "Inframince" by Marcel Duchamp replied that the notion is impossible to define, "one can only give examples of it:". It describes fine indirect perceptions of physical phenomena. Inframince is conductor of two dimensions into three, the essential dynamic in the practice of making space. Inframince is the interval between an inhabitant and their environment that both connects and separates. This study deals with the difficult situation how Contemporary Architecture represents itself over the 20th century modernity and asks the question how it presents its ornamentality. In order to analyse contradictory situation between self-referentiality and ornamentality in Modern/Contemporary Architecture we need to survey the historical process of changing position of ornaments and its meaning in time. The article also analyze the selected works of contemporary architects like Herzog & de Meuron, Jean Nouvel, to show that the trend reversal continues now more than ever. The Architectural surface must be a different kind of media that can communicate in different way with compared to conventional ornament. If we understand Duchmp's Inframince to be the provocation of the unuseful things, and if we interpret Contemporary fact that all specific Architectural Surfaces have been dissolved in timelines, it shows us post-trend of the Surfaces via conspicuous consumption or desire.

A Study on the Men's Costume of $Ch{\check{o}}nin$ in Edo Period (에도시대 정인(町人) 남자복식에 관한 고찰)

  • Park, Ok-Ryun
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.177-188
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study was to appreciate Japanese clothing and ornament of the men's costume that showed a unique style of Japan as well as a mixture of foreign civilization in Edo period. The data related clothing, ornament and art of Japan were collected from books and slide films that had been studied in Japan, because the data studied in Korea were not enough. The results were as follows: First characteristic is. the dualism. The dualism was shown in the social class, estheticism and originality. In terms of the social class, the feudalism remained through their heraldry or mark of organization even though it was broken down. In terms of estheticism, it showed the coexistence of gorgeousness and plainness. In terms of the originality, it showed the coexistence of original Kosode and Kappa under the influence of Southern barbarians' mode. Second characteristic is the utility. $Ch{\check{o}}nin$ was needed to the functional clothing because of Its social position that had much activity. Therefore, the utility was shown in a simple silhouette of Haori and Hanten and in its way of wearing.

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A Study on Ornamental Space in Art Nouveau Style (아르누보의 장식화 공간에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Sung-Hye
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.56-63
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    • 2005
  • This study aims to understand the ornamental space in Art-Nouveau style which was made up the ornamental aspect and spatial aspect. So that It is needed to classify the ornamental space into three categories according to the way of construction; pictorial composition, non-objective composition and organic construction. To find the meaning of these ornamental spaces, works of Art-Nouveau are analyzed into ornament and space, in result we know that process of integration, relativity of ornament as a part and forms of expression in ornamental space have some regulation; use of natural motive, repetition of image and organic combination. Whereas the ornamental space in Art-Nouveau style has comprehensive capacity between antagonistic relations just like tradition and new mechanism, the space could receive a lot of different ideas and express these ideas as ornaments. Although the ornamental space also had weak points which were the lack of transformation and the difficulties of the application of other design due to the perfection itself, we could create new space which meets the requirements of the times, if we develop and make up for the weak points in the ornamental space under the principles of dialectic.

A Study on Proposals of Preservation and Application Wedding Gyubang Crafts (혼례용 규방공예의 보존 및 응용 방안 제안에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Youn-Soon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.205-216
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    • 2012
  • Korean traditional wedding ceremony was conducted with some regular procedure and there were used special Gyubang crafts for wedding ceremony. Nowadays there is common the western style wedding ceremony and then the use of wedding Gyubang crafts have being decreased. Purposes of this study are to investigate characteristics of and to propose some idea of preservation and application them in the life of today. The results are as follows; Wedding Gyubang crafts can be classified Bojagj(wrapping clothes), Jumeony(cloth bags), ornaments, items related to sewing and others. They were apt to be traditionality, symbolism and shamanism, and were superior in aesthetic sense, the effect of decoration and technical skill. So there was needed preservation them. Some way of preservation and applications them were suggested ; alternation in keeping with modern needs, use of ornament, alteration in present-day life, application their image to Korean cultural products, textile design and so on. Several works were developed by ways suggested and exhibited in order to arouse new understanding Wedding Gyubang Crafts to public.

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