• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.8-13
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• 2012

This paper investigates the statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Uljin, which is located in the East Sea area of Korea. The wave data were measured using AWAC (Acoustic Wave and Current Meter), which was installed at a 16-m water depth from November 2010 to March 2011. The wave data acquisition rate, Hmax, monthly mean Hs, Tz, Tp, and wave direction are summarized. The distributions of Hs and Tz were analyzed using the Hs-Tz scatter diagrams. The measurement wave data were analyzed to investigate freak wave characteristics. By comparing the wave spectrum using the measurement wave data with the wave spectrum obtained by varying the JONSWAP wave spectrum, it was possible to approximate the wave spectrum shape at the Uljin Sea area.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.76-83
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• 1993

Miche의 쇄파기준을 활용하여 쇄파 발생시에도 적용할 수 있는 파낭모형을 제시하였고 이 모형을 근간으로 하여 천해역에서의 방향성 파낭 Spectrum에 쇄파로 인한 에너지 소산을 도입할 수 있는 기법을 개발하였다. 본 연구에서 제안된 기법의 타당성을 검증하기 위하여 천해성에서 shear current, upwelling current와 조우하는 방향성 Wallops 파랑 spectrum에 적용하였다.

• Journal of information and communication convergence engineering
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.146-149
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• 2008

Simulation and signal conditioning on the time domain surface elevation records are conducted to verify the proposed Welch's method in non-directional ocean wave spectrum analysis. These spectrum data are further conditioned to provide wave characteristic that better describe the sea states. Comparison of significant wave height and zero crossing period between the proposed method and a reference toolkit are presented.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국항해항만학회 1999년도 추계학술대회논문집
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• pp.235-242
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• 1999

Wave which propagate from the offshore cause transformation of diffraction, refraction, and reflection etc. in coming in the coastal by depth change. Especially, Wave strongly show the charcateristics of rancom wave in the coastal zone. Developed wave model until a recent date analysed regular waves with height and period equal to those of the significant wave, In case of Monochromatic wave, it can be analysed fine in the offshore, but differ from in coastal zone. In this study, form of governing equation is parabolic mild slope equation. This model calculated random wave for using frequency spectrum and directional spectrum from input data condition of wave. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.1056-1063
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• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• 한국수산과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 1989

Using computer simulated irregular waves, variations of ocean wave statistics according to sea state are analyzed, and the reasonable conditions that transform the energy spectrum to individual wave statistics are discussed. Ocean wave statistics varying with sea state are found to respond linearly to the spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$ and spectrum moments $m_n$ (n = 0, 1, 2${\cdots}{\cdots}\;\infty$ ). It is clarified that the 2nd-order spectrum moment is a reasonable parameter which represents the wave statistics including wave periods, and that the spectrum analysis should be carried out under the conditions of minimum data length of 10 times of peak period $T_p$ with time lag of $7T_p$ to satisfy the stable condition of wave statistics.

• 대한전자공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한전자공학회 2006년도 하계종합학술대회
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• pp.879-880
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• 2006

The subject of this paper is to recognize the stable state of EEG using wavelet transform and power spectrum analysis. An alpha wave, showed in stable state, is dominant wave for a human EEG and a beta wave displayed excited state. We decomposed EEG signal into an alpha wave and a beta wave in the process of wavelet transform. And we calculated each power spectrum of EEG signal, an alpha wave and a beta wave using Fast Fourier Transform. We recognized the stable state by making a comparison between power spectrum ratios respectively.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.586-595
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• 2007

고유함수전개법을 사용하여 구한 파일 방파제에 의한 규칙파의 산란 해석해를 다방향 불규칙파로 확장하였다. 규칙파중 입사파의 주파수 그리고 입사각을 변화시키면서 구한 반사율과 투과율 그리고 파랑하중을 가지고 산란파 스펙트럼과 하중 스펙트럼을 표현하였다. 주파수와 입사각의 함수인 2차원 스펙트럼을 적분하여 산란파와 파랑하중의 대푯값을 구하고 방향분포함수, 주파향, 잠긴깊이 그리고 공극율이 투과율과 파랑하중에 미치는 영향을 살펴보았다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.583-588
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• 2008

2008년 2월에 동해안에서 발생하였던 너울 관측 자료에 대하여 웨이블릿 방법을 사용하여 분석하였다. 시간에 따른 파군, 첨두 주파수 및 스펙트럼의 변화를 볼 수 있었으며 그 결과를 시간에 따라 평균하여 푸리에 스펙트럼과 비교한 결과 시간에 따른 형태나 첨두 주기의 변화는 유사하게 나왔으나 첨두 주파수 에너지와 유의 파고에 있어서는 차이를 나타냈다. 웨이블릿 분석 방법은 주파수 뿐 만 아니라 시간에 따른 스펙트럼의 변화를 볼 수 있어서 이상 파랑이나 갑작스러운 너울과 같은 일시적이고 불규칙적인 현상 연구에 효과적 것인으로 보이며 향후 우리나라 파랑 자료에 대한 많은 적용과 분석 연구가 필요하다.