• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.105-112
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• 2017

A string wallcovering is a kind of textile wallcovering which is made of cellulose fiber yarn laminated on base paper. Compared with normal paper or PVC wallpaper, a string wallcovering is preferred continually in the interior design market, as it is not only environmentally friendly but it also has less cost on mass production without the weaving process and has a natural visual effect, excellent functionality such as thermo keeping, permeability, sound absorption. However, in the dyeing process, it is not appropriate to use plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals considering the environmental trend and the government policy plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals. Currently, a string wallcovering is made of raw white yarn and padding with direct dye or pigment which includes toxic elements, especially the use of direct dye is restricted in a part of the developed country due to inclusion of azo. In this study, we researched dyeing based on cold pad batch dyeing of a string wallcovering with reactive dyestuff. The peel strength and bending depth test confirmed that the optimum adhesive type and spread amount improved the water resistance of the string wallcovering. Also, pad batch dyeing with optimum reactive dyestuff enhanced the color fastness to light and rubbing in dry and wet conditions. Additionally, for improvement of color fastness to rubbing in a wet condition, the additional treatment finishing without soaping process which is used water. The results of this study can be used as basic data for environmentally friendly and energy saving of the textile wallcovering.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.30-39
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• 2020

This study was conducted to identify problems in domestic flame-retardant performance specifications. Currently, the domestic wallcovering anti-inflammatory regulations are not prepared for damage caused by smoke, with the carbonized area as the main function. In particular, given that smoke is the main cause of human casualties and injuries in a fire, it is reasonable that the flame density and toxicity of the wallcovering should also be the main performance indicators. The scope and method of research in this study were as follows. First, a prior study related to fire on various wallcoverings was considered. Second, it raised questions about the effects of smoke in the event of a fire and domestic anti-inflammatory performance tests. Third, textile wallcovering samples were manufactured with viscose rayon for experimental verification of the problems and tested by Korean and EU standards without flame retardant processing to analyze the differences between each regulation. Fourth, the performance of flame retardant wallcovering according to Korean standards was evaluated using smoke density and harmful gas testing methods. The results of each test were as follows. Non-fire retardant wallcovering was rejected by Korea standards. However, B-s1.d0 in Europe. Smoke density testing and harmful gas by domestic combustion processing on the same sample showed that the smoke density increased about 4.3 times more than before, and the harmful gas test showed that the suspension of the post-processing sample slowed earlier than the non-processed sample.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.47-58
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• 2018

The Belgian textile wallcovering has the following background. The unique oceanic climate is optimized for flax. Beginning in the thirteenth century, British wool was produced for export to Britain or neighboring countries. Since the 15th century, Flemish paintings were influenced by color implementations, and these colors have influenced the developments of tapestry and art. Since that time, tapestry and paintings combined with paper technologies and Oriental civilizations, such as silk, that had been developed through trade ports, have been transformed into the form of current wallcoverings. Belgium produces the highest quality textile wallcovering using natural materials i.e., a combination of irregular and modern materials, and the implementation of different colors. The Belgian textile wallcovering is also a good representation of nature at the Heimtextil 2018, It provides a wide range of colors while retaining the best styles for wallcoverings in Belgium. The characteristics of Belgian wall coverings are: First, the high proportion of achromatic colors, especially the white ones, are analyzed for current trends. Second, it expresses the characteristics of materials by using only one material. This not only shows a high level of understanding of natural materials, but also shows a high level of development in terms of processing technology. Thirdly, linen was made into a formative expression using wrinkle processing and by printing geometric patterns, the rough texture of natural materials was expressed in harmony with modern patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.34-43
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• 2017

Paperweave wallcoveing is necessary to develop new designs based on the analysis of global trend and reflection of Korean traditional image to improve commercial value in the worldwide market. The purpose of this study was to understand design trend and share valuable data by product analyzing of major paperweave wallcovering brands - Yeomyung (Korea), Phillip Jeffries (USA) and Omexco (Belgium). In the dominant color, the largest proportion is YR. Analysis of each brand color, Omexco is using the widest range of colors, the colors of each brand uses an exclusive of its own brand compared to other brands are Green (Yeomyung), Blue (Phillip Jeffries), Red (Omexco). The number of colors, Yeomyung and Philip Jeffries have a high ratio of bi-color, Omexco is revealing various color expression methods such as 55% solid color, two or three multi-color are each half of the balance. Analysis of weaving, Yeomyung has a high ratio of balanced plain, at number of mixture, Yeomyung and Phillip Jeffries are using mostly paper-yarn but Omexco is using multi-mixture materials in some part of theirs. Regarding analysis of finishing, all three brands are mostly selling unfinished paperweave wallcovering but some solid coated are appearing at Yeomyung and Omexco. Yeomyung has more foil transfer compared with the other brands, Phillip Jeffries has some digital printed products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.27-36
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• 2019

This study aimed to analyze the color differences by warp direction of textile mosaics by focusing on two representative textile wallcovering types, woven and string. Mosaics made of string can be expressed as having three-dimensionality based on color differences resulting from the warp direction of the string. String wallcoverings, unlike woven or non-woven wallcoverings, only have vertically oriented warp lamination on the backing paper without weft, and therefore, the reflection and backing color can be expressed differently depending on the angle of the mosaic. In this study, two identical wallcoverings were manufactured using the same materials but using different textile types, woven and string. The wallcoverings underwent die-cutting by each angle and were deployed in cube form. The analysis was based on ISO 5631-1:2015. The color difference between the two wallcoverings, woven and string, was shown as ΔE* 9.29. Based on the standard deviation of the color difference for each mosaic angle, woven ranged from ΔE* 0.09 to 0.94 and string ranged from ΔE* 1.92 to 3.74, showing a larger color difference. Thus, using the color differences of string to create a mosaic wallcovering improved dimensionality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.