Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2020.24.4.19

A Study on the Background and Characteristics of Textile Wallcovering in Flemish Painting  

Lee, Joonhan (Yeomyung Wallcoverings Co., Ltd.)
Kim, Sun Mee (Dept. of Living Design, Konkuk University)
Publication Information
Journal of Fashion Business / v.24, no.4, 2020 , pp. 19-29 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14th to 16th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.
Keywords
Flemish painting; textile wallcovering; interior fabric; tapestry; Renaissance;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 2  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Justice of Emperor Otto III. (n.d). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/justice-of-emperor-otto-iii-beheading-of-the-innocent-count-and-ordeal-by-fire/5AGtQbEd3j5HnA?ms=%7B%22x%22%3A0.5%2C%22y%22%3A0.5%2C%22z%22%3A13%2C%22size%22%3A%7B%22width%22%3A0.1953036802890043%2C%22height%22%3A0.11889338731443995%7D%7D
2 Kalter, B. (2011). Modern antiques: The material past in England, 1660-1780. Lewisburg, PA: Bucknell University Press.
3 Kang, I. (1985). The origins of the Frisian town patriciate. The Historical Journal, 29, 129-146.
4 Kim, B., & Nam, Y. (2012). The rise and decline of Brugge as a Medieval city in Flanders, Belgium. Journal of the Korean Urban Geographical Society, 15(2), 1-22.   DOI
5 Kim, H. (2016). A critical study on the linguistic metaphor and allegoric interpretation of Flemish painting. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 17(6), 169-185.
6 Kim, S. (2019). A study of seventeenth-century Netherlandish dolls' houses, Art History, 37, 87-114. doi:10.14769/jkaahe.2019.02.37.87   DOI
7 Ko, C. (2007). Antonello da Messina e la pittura Fianmminga [Antonello da Messina and Flemish paint]. Journal of the Association of Western Art History, 2007(26), 8-29.
8 Horace, J. (1921). Captain Cook wallpaper. Bulletin of the Pennsylvania Museum , 17(69), 6-10.   DOI
9 Lee, H. (2001). A study of the costume design with applied modern tapestry technique (Unpublished master's thesis). Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
10 Lee, H. (2017). Writing on revolts of Flemish cities in the Memoires of Olivier de La Marche. History Journal(KRFH), 37, 33-70.
11 Arnolfini Portrait. (n.d.). Retrieved June 17, 2019, from https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait
12 Cha, I. (2016). A study on the Italian silk textile design in the 15th century western painting. The Journal of the Korea Society of Art&Design, 19(4), 31-49.
13 Changing the Cloth of Honour after the Execution in the Judgment of Cambyses. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/d/david/1/cambyse.jpg
14 Lim, O. (2016). A study on the technique in Leonardo da Vinci's -Focused on a work of Mona Lisa- (Unpublished master's thesis). Kyonggi University, Suwon, Korea.
15 Park, S. (2002). The donor portrait in the fifteenth century Flemish altarpiece. Journal of the Association of Western Art History, 17, 45-74.
16 Parry-williams, T. (2015). W is for wallpaper. Selvedge, 67, 92-93.
17 Richardson, C., & Hamling, T. (2016). Ways of seeing early modern decorative textiles for textile history. Textile History, 47(1), 4-26. doi:10.1080/00404969.2016.1144672   DOI
18 Roth, L., & Valman, N. (2017). The routledge handbook of contemporary Jewish cultures. New York, NY: Routledge.
19 Saint Anne in Three and St. Joachim. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/c/cleve/joos/st_anne.jpg
20 Scenes from the Life of Christ. (n.d.). Retrieved June 19, 2019 from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d1/Master_of_the_Wenemaer_Triptych_-_Scenes_from_the_Life_of_Christ_%28Ghent%29.jpg
21 St. John's Hospital Altarpiece by Hans Memling. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/m/memling/2middle2/13john.jpg
22 Lee, J., & Kim, S. (2018). A study on CMF Design of Belgian natural textile wallcovering at Heimtextil 2018. Journal of Fashion Business, 22(4), 47-58. doi: 10.12940/jfb.2018.22.4.47   DOI
23 Tapestry in Joris van Zelle's Portrait. (n.d). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/o/orley/zelle.jpg
24 Tapestry: The Unicorn is Found (n.d). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/cl/original/DP118983.jpg
25 Detail of Velvet. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/Bitcoin_cufflinks_%28cropped%29.JPG
26 Chung, E. (2009). Rose, unicorn, millefleurs: The novelty of the fifteenth century tapestry. Korean Bulletin of Art History, 32, 5-27.
27 Detail of Brocade. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5e/Kjol_till_hertiginnan_Hedvig_Elisabeth_Charlottas_%281759-1818%29_brudkl%C3%A4nning_1774._Detaljbild_-_Livrustkammaren_-_86962.tif/lossy-page1-1280px-Kjol_till_hertiginnan_Hedvig_Elisabeth_Charlottas_%281759-1818%29_brudkl%C3%A4nning_1774._Detaljbild_-_Livrustkammaren_-_86962.tif.jpg
28 Detail of Tapestry: Church of St. Trophime. (n.d.). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/54/AubussonNaissanceMarieArles2.jpg/1600px-AubussonNaissanceMarieArles2.jpg
29 Ahn, J. (2016). A study on the damage types of oil paintings (Unpublished master's thesis). Konkuk University, Chungju, Korea.
30 Ghent Altarpiece: Wing Open. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/e/eyck_van/jan/09ghent/1open.jpg
31 Gu, J. (2018). Social and artistic interactions between Tuscany and Flanders through the . History & the World, 54, 1-33. doi:10.17857/hw.2018.12.54.1   DOI
32 Wallpaper. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wallpaper
33 Tempera: Madonna and Child by Duccio. (n.d). Retrieved June 17, 2019 from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bd/Duccio_The-Madonna-and-Child-128.jpg
34 Illuminated Manuscript: Chronicles of Hainaut. (n.d.). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/detail/w/weyden/rogier/17other/40miniat.jpg
35 Territories of Burgundy in 15C. (n.d.). Marco Zanoli. Retrieved June 17, 2019, from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Karte_Haus_Burgund_4_EN.png/800px-Karte_Haus_Burgund_4_EN.png
36 The Adoration of the Magi. (n.d.). Retrieved June 20, 2019, from https://images.mskgent.be/field_collection/meta/image/1950-A%20kopie.jpg?auto=format&fit=max&h=1080&ixlib=php-1.1.0&q=65&w=1920&s=40ae40cf294446de6dcc5b4036387105
37 The Judgement of Cambyses. (n.d.). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/d/david/1/cambyse.jpg
38 Virgin and Child with Canon van der Paele. (n.d.). Retrieved June 19, 2019, from https://www.wga.hu/art/e/eyck_van/jan/21paele/21paele2.jpg