• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.15-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the location of the waistline and the width of the round belt of the basic pants. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the location of the waistline and 3 variations of the width of the belt. The data has been obtained from 35 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test and the MCA method. The visual image by the location of waistline and the width of belt are composed of 3 factors : modernity, comfort and attraction factor. In these factors, modernity factor is estimated as the most important factor. The visual image is modern and attractive as the location of waist line goes down. And when the location of waist line is in the position of natural waist belt, belt of 3.2cm width is visually effective. Belt of 4.2cm width is effective except the position of natural waist belt. The interaction effects between the location of the waistline and the width of the belt have significant differences in comfort and attraction factors. As the main effect, significant differences were observed in all of the three factors according to the location of waistline and the width of belt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.67-85
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• 2010

School uniform has improved greatly in terms of fit, size, function, and design due to steep competition in the market and the strong interest of researcher, while little effort has been made for physical training uniform, so the objective of this study is to provide basic research data of the training uniform for the improvement of its design and fitness. For this purpose, 327 high school girls provided information on size and design of their uniform, level of satisfaction, the recognized ease in uniform. Most students wore the physical training uniform in another classes and the long sleeved shirt were the most popular one. They often used the uniform for the protection from cold and for comfortable activeness. For a long sleeved shirt, most students preferred raglan sleeve, zip-up collar, straight waist line, and ribbed sleeve cuffs and hem. For long pants, students preferred elastic waist band and ribbed pants cuffs. Currently, the short-sleeved shirt mostly had a shirts collar, ribbed hem, straight waist line with raglan sleeve, but students wanted a round neck and set-in sleeve. For overall level of satisfaction, students showed high satisfaction in terms of function and psychological effect, while aesthetic quality of the uniform was needed to be much improved. Most students evaluated that the circumference of uniforms properly fit or had a little ease, and students considered waist size the most suitable. The long pants length evaluated properly fit or a little long. Students accepted that the ease of summer uniform was more suitable than winter uniform's both at circumference and at length. Depending on students' height distribution, the length of long pants and short pants varied significantly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.881-894
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• 2015

The silver generation have clothing style of optimal daily life comparing than young generation because they do not participate a specific sport event but daily- life exercise. As the human body ages, the figure of the silver generation shows different body shape because upper body changes to curved figure including the belly and waist part. Therefore, clothing characteristics for the silver generation should be considered with proper function, design and textiles to optimize body movement. This study investigated various exercise types according to motion analysis of the silver generation in order to develop the design of the active T-shirts reflecting the structural properties and providing the optimum exercise circumstance. The results to consider design needs are as followed; As the T-shirts design for the flexible exercise which required frequent movement of upper body such as bending and waist twisting during body stretching, a stretch fabric applied to the waist part considering T-shirts allowance and length to make extreme elongation and support for well-fitting appearance of the T-shirts. As the T-shirts design for the instantaneous reactionary exercise, high elastic four-way stretch fabric is applied to the part of arm hole to optimize skeletal and muscle movement for entire body and arm work. As the T-shirts design for the endurance exercise such as climbing, cycling, and walking, the shoulder line of the back part has cutting line allowance to make optimum movement of the upper body but no change of the waist part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.157-166
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• 2009

This study was conducted to evaluate the differences in external appearances and functional qualities between the slacks which were patterned on existing designs and on a new design in order to improve on their level of comfort of ready-made clothes for abdominally fat women. Five abdominally fat women in their 60's were chosen as experimental participants. Twenty-four external evaluation items, and seven different actions involving six moving parts of the body were investigated with a 5-level scale in the repeated wearing test. The results were analyzed by statistical methods. The newly designed pattern in this study was definitely superior to the other two patterns(L-type and K-type) on the external appearance evaluation. The newly pattern removed a waist belt and a dart from the front part of the garment and gave surplus space around the waist. It prevented superfluous wrinkles at the abdominal region and thighs. The superfluous wrinkles at the side regions also disappeared due to the length (inseam) reduction from waist to crotch. The newly pattern made the center-line of the back side slightly sloped to the main pattern in order to remove the drooped line. The newly pattern showed the highest score in the functional test of several actions. It was due to the reduction of the length from waist to crotch as well as the belt width. It made waist-line movement better, and made it easier and more comfortable to sit down. The newly pattern also showed the highest score in the functional test classified by specific movements of parts of the body for the same purpose. The slacks which were made of elastic materials showed better results than the non-elastic ones on external appearances and functional test items. It showed that the elastic materials played a better role in the increase of functional action of abdominally fat, aged women. This study suggests that the newly designed slacks pattern could give abdominally fat, aged women better external features and a more comfortable fitting sensation. As well, the results were significant as basic data to produce ready-made and/or tailer-made garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.325-333
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• 1992

The objectives of this study were 1) to investigate the clothing needs of physically han- dicapped children, 2) to present the basic data to make the slacks patterns which meet the specific needs of physically handicapped children under study. Questionnaires were administered to 38 mothers of handicapped children and the subjects for the wear test were five handicapped children using wheelchair. The fabrics used for slacks wear test were: muslin woven with cotton, stretchable jean woven and double jersey knitted with cotton and polyester fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) The majority of the handicapped children were wearing ready·made-garments and their mothers considered the fabric elasticity first. 2) The slacks wear test indicated that the slacks ease of 8 cm should be added above the natural waist line in the back for the wheelchair bound children. 3) In a sitting posture on the wheelchair, $3\~4$ cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front but in a standing posture, $1\~2$ cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front. 4) The double jersey (cotton/polyester) slacks was highly estimated of ease ana length of slacks in a sitting posture. The stretchable jean (cotton/spandex) slacks was estimated high of appearance but muslin slacks (cotton) was less estimated of ease and appearance of slacks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.146-165
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• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.