• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.93-108
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• 2008

This study held physical measurement for male subjects in their 20s living in Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China, showing the biggest market in men's clothes. Their representative lower body types with average shapes and sizes were chosen so as to develop men's slacks patterns with better dimension fitness. The following are the results of the analysis: 1. Slacks patterns were made based on the mean measurement values of 5 people, who were closest to the representative body types, from the index*absolute group of 47 people. The dimensions of application for slacks pattern-making were 77cm(omphalion waist circumference), 91cm(hip circumference), and 103cm(slacks length). 2. For the comparison of high-fitness and more-room pattern dimensions, 5 styles of slacks were made: Korean, Chinese, British, Japanese, and industrial. In the dressing fitness tests, industrial patterns had excellent appearance and Japanese ones had the best function. 3. Based on the analysis results of slacks pattern comparison, the target slacks were experimentally made and received superior evaluation points to the compared slacks patterns in two times of evaluation for appearance and function. 4. The final slacks pattern in this research had the following dimensions: front waist circumference: W(1-2cm with room included)/4-1cm, back waist circumference: W/4+1cm, front hip circumference: H(9$\sim$10cm with room included)/4-1cm, back hip circumference: H/4+1cm, crotch length: H/4-1.5cm, hip length: crotch length-H/12, front crotch extension: H/16-1.5cm, back crotch extension: H/8+3cm, knee line: 33cm below crotch line, front tuck amount: 4cm, back dart amount: 2.5cm(center) and 1.5cm(side), and back dart length: 10cm (center) and 6cm(side).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.59-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern of elderly women aged over 60s by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new slacks pattern considered elderly women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows, front waist girth W/4+2+1.5, back waist girth W/4+1.5+0.5, front hip girth H/4+0.75, back hip girth H/4+1.5, front crotch extension H/16-0.5, back crotch extension H/8-1.3, front dart amount 2 and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new slacks pattern is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, new slacks pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.373-381
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• 1996

Draping design system organized by European about 13C has been developed greatly for a long while, but for the purpose of the practical use the Dress form similar to human body has been needed. In order to make three-dimensional effect as fitting Muslin ot the Dress form. the Basic lien has to be established in Muslin and Dress form each. At this time, Shoulder-blade level is indicated from various angles : measure down 10cm from the back neck point, a quarter of the back neck point to the waist lie, the half-way point between neckline and bust line, measure down 41 inches from the back neck line, measure down 3 inches from the top edge of the muslin at center back and cross mark for neck line, and so forth. This study established the Basic line through the two ways of them (B.N.P∼B.L/2, B.N.P∼W.L/4), did tight fitting to the 5 kinds of Dress forms which ar normal type in the drop value(the difference between hip circumference and bust circumference), and acquired Basic Pattern. After the experiment, fitness are throughly investigate by statistical analysis of measurements. As a result, this study finds out that fit is proper when shoulder blade level is situated on a fourth of the back neck point to the waist line and a quarter point between back neck point and waist line, and waist dart is situated on the back center line and princess line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.130-158
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• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.123-143
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• 1994

The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.60-75
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• 2016

This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men's shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or ${\chi}^2$ test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20's had less experience with tailoring than men in 30's. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20's considered fit more important than men in their 30's. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20's more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30's. On the other hand, men in their 30's preferred one dart shirts than men in 20's. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.