• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.99-113
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to compare the social image and the external image of a Korean woman in 1970s and find out that the make-up can provide an important clue to examine the image of a woman in a given period. The research scope covered 10 top news of the daily newspapers and articles of women's magazines. A focus was made to an analysis on words and photos from them. The relationship of each image scale was examined by comparing the linguistic image scale and the visual image scale. The results were as follows : First, a frugal and tidy image. It was the look of our tidy, simple, traditional and classic woman. Second, an image of a cute and pure lady of refined manners. In 1970s, women were supposed to be 'a loving wife', a cultured female image with a faithful role of a 'wise mother' and a lady of refined manners as the best value. Third, a frivolous and decadent image. Double-faced image of a woman which included the women, who had to live as the lady of refined manners during the daytime and seductive woman during the night. Fourth, an image of a contemporary working woman. It was the image as a chic, confident and dignified working woman requested by the society of the times. Namely, it can be understood that women had a make-up of a soft and gorgeous tone as an expression of a will to keep a confident and female aspect in the course of working in the society by the women experiencing 1970s, the turbulent period. Consequently, it is possible to understand that the make-up was utilized as a means to express an ideal beauty of the time pursuant to the historical background or feature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.741-752
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to review the status of dress material in the contemporary fashion design by examining the intertextuality of many materials other than textiles used in the contemporary fashion and to show that the development of new fashion materials is a factor for designing competitiveness. The results of this study are summarized as follows: First, foods and natural objects are used as fashion materials to reveal natural beauty, and at the same time new formative elements are expressed in combinations of life and fashion. Second, common paper and luxurious jewelry are presented as a formative element symbolic of an aspect of the contemporary society or embodied in elaborate handicraft techniques. Those materials boost the luxuriousness of costume and create a strong futuristic image according to how they are expressed. Third, plastics available for a variety of objects in different shapes and colors offer such formative features that could be shaped with textiles, as high-end technology is introduced to fashion. Fourth, metallic materials have added freedom to design formality due to their qualities of convergence and displacement and by the introduction of brand-new technology, suggesting a new future for the fashion industry. Fifth, using a variety of anti-fashion materials including semiconductor chips, mirrors, vinyl, wires, and rubber makes a change in the existing points of view regarding the formality of things and helps create a special aesthetic effect in a visual respect to develop a strong intertextuality of materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.361-373
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the role of lines in creative design development by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion using geometric formativeness of symmography. A literature study was conducted of works since 2009 to examine the general consideration of lines together with analysis of the concept and characteristics of symmography in the formative arts field, and to analyze the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design using the formativeness of symmography. The infinite sense of formativeness and original expression of symmography are used in formative arts such as space design, installation art, and industrial design. Expression types of modern fashion design using geometric formativeness of symmography can be classified into the following three types: two-dimensional graphic pattern, relief surface, and three-dimensional spatial. First, the two-dimensional graphic pattern type forms an optical pattern, providing individuality and visual interest to the textile design. Second, the relief surface type expresses the plane in various ways, so that the thickness changes according to how lines overlap. Third, the three-dimensional spatial type expands the boundaries of clothing and creates a fantastic spatial beauty. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of fashion design using symmography can be classified into repetitive rhythmicity, geometric self-similarity, and optical spatiality. Symmography enables a myriad of geometric patterns to be developed depending on material, color, and the designer's imagination, and helps inspire a variety of designs in fashion that sculpt a three-dimensional human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.741-755
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• 2012

This study mathematically and scientifically investigated the aesthetic consciousness of women inherent in the costume craftworks craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty through a systematical analysis of their textile pattern composition using visual language theory. The tangent value from the horizontal and vertical ratio of the costume craftworks craftworks indicated that they had an indigenous proportion system with a relatively regular form and pattern but without an exaggerated type. There was a module based on structures in the textile patterns of the costume craftworks craftworks and the patterns were constructed by the module with the syntagms of the ratio structure. Moreover, the analysis of the pattern designs indicated that the whole form of the costume craftworks craftworks was built through a repetitive structure of feature and one of pattern units; in addition, the craftworks had the extended composition and blank space of daring patterns, an important factor to make a whole design. Therefore, our study suggested that the costume craftworks craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty was characterized by the presentation of the aesthetic style with a Geumgang ratio (an indigenous proportion system used in Korea) and could be interpreted as an art style based on the beauty of space. Moreover, it is suggested that the spirit inherent in the costume craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty (which tried to understand the whole as one and equate the whole and parts) might agree with a holistic tendency as the foundation of Korea art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.461-471
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• 2011

Jewelry has recognized as a part of independent formative arts of fashion with the change modern man's cognition for the fashion. It is a great important section to express fashion image. So, many corporations design and develop the jewelry by themselves to maxmize their fashion image. Among the so many kinds of jewelry, especially the necklace is located beneath the face and linked as a part of fashion, so it frequently has showed in Fashion Collection. Like this Fashion and jewelry enact each other and share their esthetic features but, it is insufficient the study of fashion linked with the jewelry. In this study, we defined the words which is using confusedly according to jewelry forms what researched by others. In addition, we tend to study the effect of that the form, hue and character of materials of necklace that is expressed in fashion collection influence fashion image. The method of this study is comprised with precedent studies and analysis of necklace photos in fashion collection. For the analysis of data, we implement content analysis and statistical analysis using SPAW Statistics 18(frequency analysis, percentage, cross-tabulations, $X^2$-test). Because the hue and the form of necklace take a great role to make fashion image with the sense of its eyesight, its effective coordination go up the delicate feelings with the form, hue and quality of the fashion. Especially, the hue is the essential element of formative characteristics to express visual image. The necklace had coordinated more frequently in S/S than F/W, it means that more light and simple fashion let ornamental beauty could express by the necklace. So, it is very effective things that we predict the trend of fashion, then, coordinate with well-matched necklace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1057-1067
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• 2005

In the modem society, people try to represent and protect their traditional arts in aesthetic way along with the global society. The proposal of this thesis is about the fashion illustration that has adopted the folklike formative arts. 1 prefer the formative character rather then the universal character and I would like to use of folk paintings far the fashion illustration. Because the formative character of folk paintings is very expressional, we are able to draw a fashion illustration in easy, new, creative and less difficult way. The fashion illustration has to be a specialized field from the formative arts, and we need to study in a new way as well. We draw fashion illustration through the understanding of folk paintings and the study of analysis in formative. As a result of this study, we could draw a fashion illustration which is very abstract, exaggerative and simple. We also could expect the free hand drawing lines on this illustration. In these fashion illustrations, the human bodies let us fret the artists' tense, speed, and power. According to the important character of folk painting, which is the beauty of color, these fashion illustrations have expressed more color intensive. In the falk paintings there is a kind of rules to make color order, so the fashion illustrations that we drew have the bright and clear color combination. Because the folk paintings shouldn't be the artistic but should be the realistic, the fashion illustrations concentrate on the real subject. It is very natural looking that use the natural dyes in the fashion illustrations. According to this kind of art task, fashion illustration will be a certain part of the illustration in the modem society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.110-127
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion styling of modern girls who led fashion and revealed power of woman as the center of modernization in Korea. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data, expert evaluation, and styling development and presentation. The image of Korean modern girl analysis found in the order of modern image, elegant image, classic image, mannish image, romantic image. The aesthetic characteristics could be classified into sensual classicism, modern elegance, feminist epicenism, and romantic simplicity. The theme was 'Retro Modern' and a total of 4 styles were applied. 'Progressive Tradition' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of sensual classicism and it gave a modern reinterpretation of the seamless one-piece skirt which is the modified Korean clothes of Korean modern girls. 'Luxe Beauty' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of modern elegance, and it developed the long and slim style which was popular in the 1930's in a trendy way. 'Dressy Avant-garde' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of feminist epicenism, and it suggested the mannish style Western clothes that Korean modern girls wore by following recent fashion trend. 'Minimal Couture' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic simplicity and it presented the garçonne look which was popular in the 1920's by following recent trend.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.36-48
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• 2012

This study intends to provide fundamental data to develop creative high-value designs, proving that the cut-out technique, a decorative element of fashion design, can be used to express various visual effects. The author performed a literature review of such publications as Gap Press, Fashion News, and Mode & Mode from 2001S/S to 2010S/S, referring to Internet data to empirically analyze the cut-out technique in contemporary fashion. The study found that the cut-out design is effective overall, but is best suited for one-piece designs and for partial rather than whole items of clothing. The basic motif of the cut-out is a geometrical pattern based on a line, a tear, or is shapeless. The cut-out design is mostly shown as an overall pattern or as a symmetrical shape. Analysis shows that the characteristics of the contemporary fashion utilizing the cut-out technique are as follow: First, the cut-out technique exposes the curves of a woman's body in a direct or indirect way, thereby emphasizing her sexuality and maximizing the value of female beauty. Second, through the cut-out technique, we can highlight the various types of space formed by the technique and repeated patterns; we may also elaborate on single-patterned laser-cut designs, which will show that the particular surface effect of the material can strongly impact the attractiveness of the design through emphasis and decoration. Third, damaging or destroying clothes on purpose, showing surprising concepts through optical illusions, and expressing humor by ignoring existing clothing styles show our willingness to escape from traditional or obvious design ideas, as well as demonstrating individuality and playfulness.