• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.125-137
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• 2003

This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie $\ulcorner$Matrix2-Reloaded$\lrcorner$, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.616-627
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for obese-schoolgirls aged 10~12 by using a 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had a BMI of over $25kg/m^2$. A total of 155 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, a new slacks pattern considerate of obese-schoolgirls was developed. The basic numerical formulae were as follows: Front and back hip girth of H/4-0.5+1 and H/4+0.5+1.5, front waist girth of W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth of W/4+2+0.5, front crotch extension of H/16-0.5, back crotch extension of H/8-0.5, front dart amount of 1, and back dart amount of 2. Second, according to the new slacks pattern appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern for silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for obese-schoolgirls. Additionally, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing for the proper space length of the waist, abdomen and hips. This study is expected to serve as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize a 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns and for future 3D pattern production program development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.446-462
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• 2020

The objectives of this study are to explore the information source, assessment, and preferred styles of 3D virtual influencers(VI), to investigate the expected impact of advertisements with 3D VIs on brands, and to explore ways of expanding the use of 3D VIs. In-depth interviews with 40 males and females in their 20s and 30s were conducted and qualitative data were analyzed. The study results are summarized as follows. First, the information source of the 3D VI was SNS, acquaintances, and broadcasting. Second, 3D VIs were considered positively due to their attractive appearance, wide utilization, innovative use, freshness, separation from private identity, and time and cost savings, while considered negatively due to their unrealistic appearance and antipathy against replacing a person's role. Third, the preferred appearance styles of the 3D VI differed according to the level of virtuality although the majority of interviewees preferred similar looks to real people with low virtuality. Fourth, diverse image qualities such as innovative, differentiated, trendy, high-value, professional, and future-oriented were considered as transferred to the brand advertised by 3D VIs. Fifth, advertisements with 3D VIs may help build positive perceptions of advertised brands that may lead to purchase behaviors for some consumers. Lastly, to expand the use of 3D VIs, the specific advantages of virtual models should be maximized with consideration of how to implement a variety of body types and images of models. Findings present an important foundation to generate strategies to better apply 3D VIs to the fashion market.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.191-203
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• 2016

The 3D virtual fitting system is a new and very efficient system replacing real fitting in apparel industry and on-line shopping. It is a win-win system for both of consumer and manufacturer which not only reduces design and production time but also resolves consumer's complaints by checking the wearing image beforehand. It is a must-have item in the future. The purpose of this study is to analyze sizing menu, terms, and current status and to figure out problems of avatar sizing programs which substitute human bodies in virtual fitting. We chose three existing outstanding programs in domestic and global market, compared and analyzed the program, manual, and terms that are used in avatar sizing, and investigated the strengths, weaknesses, problems of options and terms and finally suggested an alternative terms. The revealed problems are as follows: each program supports various avatars ranging from male to female, from child to adult, and from oriental style to western style. The image of the avatar could be changed through the options for hair style, shoes and accessories. But we found out some problems. The avatar body types are far from actual human body types, avatar sizing menus and item terms are different from program to program, and terms not yet standardized. Cooperative efforts of industry and academy on standardization of sizing menus and terms should be emphasized for the virtual fitting system to be widely used like the other computer graphic programs or word editors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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• v.11B no.6
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.605-618
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.11-21
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• 2021

Virtual reality is currently mainly used in games, but is starting to be applied as a variety of media fields, such as broadcasting and film. Virtual reality provides more fun than reality, and can provide new experiences in areas that cannot be experienced in reality due to the constraints of time, space, and environment. In particular, as the social non-contact arena has increased due to COVID-19, it is being applied to education, health, and medical industries. The contents are further expanding into design and military fields. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to observe the change in distribution of load and pressure felt by the body in the flying state while wearing a short pants harness, which are mainly used in the game and entertainment industry. In the experiment, the average pressure in the flying state was measured by attaching a pressure sensor to the back and front of a human mannequin. As a result, it was confirmed that the load concentrated on the waist in the flying state was 44 N, with a pressure of 1353 kPa. The pressure distribution was concentrated in front of the center of gravity, and was measured was at 98% by the pressure sensors, with an average pressure value of approximately 15 kPa, and a pressure value of approximately 12 kPa at the back, which was measured at 67% by the pressure sensor. The results of the load and pressure distribution measurement are presented as fundamental data to improve the wearability and comfort of harnesses in the future, and are compared to actual measured pressure values by analyzing the clothing pressure in flight through virtual wear of harnesses through the CLO 3D program.