Christopher Nemeth is a designer who combines characteristics of a pioneering upcycle design and deconstructionist design with fabrics, waste clothing, and pieces of fabric recycled in the 1980s. By hommaging his work from the Louis Vuitton 2015 F/W collection, Kim Jones is once again becoming a source of design inspiration in an era where upcycling fashion is attracting attention. Accordingly, an upcycling design approach might appeal to the MZ generation. Christopher Nemes' design presented in this study as a representative fashion designer of dismantling upcycling is basically based on dismantling. It can also be interpreted as dismantling upcycling design because it uses used clothing, waste clothing, and discarded fabrics as materials. This study examined main techniques of upcycling fashion design and derived characteristics of Nemes design as "deconstructive techniques using free lines of construction," "recycling upcycling vintage materials and clothing accessories," and "using handcrafted techniques of artistic sensibility." By applying Nemes' dismantling upcycling technique, four designs were developed for men's top and bottom sets for targets in their 20s and 30s to suggest the commercialization possibility. This study is meaningful in that it proposes a methodical alternative to the new deconstructionist upcycling design that can show Nemes' aesthetic characteristics, creative perspective, and personality by modernly reinterpreting the deconstructionist upcycling technique extracted through analysis of fashion designer Christopher Nemes' design. In particular, by actually producing the work and confirming whether the design technique can be implemented, the value as a fashion product that can be sold is realized.
This paper, a sequel to Yoo and Lee (1990), attempts to investigate the interindustry determinants of technical efficiency in Korea's manufacturing industries, and also to conduct an exploratory analysis on the stability of technical efficiency over time. The hypotheses set forth in this paper are most found in the existing literature on technical efficiency. They are, however, revised and shed a new light upon, whenever possible, to accommodate any Korea-specific conditions. The set of regressors used in the cross-sectional analysis are chosen and the hypotheses are posed in such a way that our result can be made comparable to those of similar studies conducted for the U.S. and Japan by Caves and Barton (1990) and Uekusa and Torii (1987), respectively. It is interesting to observe a certain degree of similarity as well as differentiation between the cross-section evidence on Korea's manufacturing industries and that on the U.S. and Japanese industries. As for the similarities, we can find positive and significant effects on technical efficiency of relative size of production and the extent of specialization in production, and negative and significant effect of the variations in capital-labor ratio within industries. The curvature influence of concentration ratio on technical efficiency is also confirmed in the Korean case. There are differences, too. We cannot find any significant effects of capital vintage, R&D and foreign competition on technical efficiency, all of which were shown to be robust determinants of technical efficiency in the U.S. case. We note, however, that the variables measuring capital vintage effect, R&D and the degree of foreign competition in Korean markets are suspected to suffer from serious measurement errors incurred in data collection and/or conversion of industrial classification system into the KSIC (Korea Standard Industrial Classification) system. Thus, we are reluctant to accept the findings on the effects of these variables as definitive conclusions on Korea's industrial organization. Another finding that interests us is that the cross-industry evidence becomes consistently strong when we use the efficiency estimates based on gross output instead of value added, which provides us with an ex post empirical criterion to choose an output measure between the two in estimating the production frontier. We also conduct exploratory analyses on the stability of the estimates of technical efficiency in Korea's manufacturing industries. Though the method of testing stability employed in this paper is never a complete one, we cannot find strong evidence that our efficiency estimates are stable over time. The outcome is both surprising and disappointing. We can also show that the instability of technical efficiency over time is partly explained by the way we constructed our measures of technical efficiency. To the extent that our efficiency estimates depend on the shape of the empirical distribution of plants in the input-output space, any movements of the production frontier over time are not reflected in the estimates, and possibilities exist of associating a higher level of technical efficiency with a downward movement of the production frontier over time, and so on. Thus, we find that efficiency measures that take into account not only the distributional changes, but also the shifts of the production frontier over time, increase the extent of stability, and are more appropriate for use in a dynamic context. The remaining portion of the instability of technical efficiency over time is not explained satisfactorily in this paper, and future research should address this question.
Statement of problem: Although the use of colorimeter to improve the accuracy of tooth color measurement has increased, it is real situation that there is almost no comparative study about the accuracy among various colorimeters. Purpose: The purpose of this study is to compare the accuracy of porcelain color reproducibility using ShadeEye-Ncc dental chroma meter (Shofu Inc., Kyoto, Japan) and Shadepilot$^{TM}$ system (Degudent Inc., Hanau, Germany). Material and methods: Color of 2M2 and 3M2 shade tap of Vitapan 3D Master shade guide were measured using the above two colorimeters. Porcelain specimens were fabricated through this data. The porcelain systems used were Vintage Halo Porcelain system with ShadeEye-Ncc dental chroma meter, and VitaOmega900 Porcelain system with Shadepilot$^{TM}$ system. Colors of shade tap models and porcelain specimen were measured with spectrophotometer, and calculated delta E based on the results. Results: The following results were obtained. 1. Shadepilot$^{TM}$ system showed more suitable porcelain color reproducibility compared to ShadeEye-Ncc dental chroma meter (P <.05). 2. The result showed the difference of porcelain color reproducibility according to shade of Shade tap which is model. More suitable porcelain color reproducibility was shown at 3M2 shade tap than at 2M2 shade tap (P <.05). 3. The average of ${\Delta}E*$ of porcelain specimens which was made by the two colorimeters was 4.44-6.14, so the difference of shade was shown through the naked eye. Conclusion: Shadepilot$^{TM}$ system showed more suitable porcelain color reproducibility. When using ShadeEye-Ncc dental chromameter, it will be necessary to improve accuracy through coloring various parts of the whole tooth.
After adjusting glazed surface of laminate veneer porcelain by reduction in the clinical procedure, an additional polishing procedure is required to smoothen the roughened surface by reduction, as it is difficult to glaze it again in the furnace. In this study, four kinds of laminate veneer porcelain were ground with diamond points as done in the clinical procedure. The adjusted porcelain surface was polished with Durawhite stone, Ceramiste points, Exa cerapol, Porcelain polishing wheel, Diamond polishing paste. The degree of surface roughness was evaluated with SEM and profilometer at each step, The self glazed surface and the glazed surface with glazing powder were compared with the polished surface and surface roughness of four kinds of laminate veneer porcelain according to the polishing method and step were obserbed. The following results were obtained : 1. There was no difference in the average surface roughness Ra value and the surface roughness obserbed under SEM according to the polishing methods and steps used, among the four kinds of laminate veneer porcelain including Colorlogic, Exelco, Vintage, and Vitadur alpha product. 2. Due to porosities, the surface in the course of polishing by polishing instruments was rougher than the glazed surface, evaluated with a SEM. 3. Insta-Glaze diamond polishing paste has no statistical difference with self glazed group 1, although it has a lower value in average surface roughness Ra value. 4. Group 2 which was glazed with galzing powder was lowest in view of SEM, but it revealed higher surface roughness Ra value than group 1, the glazed surface and group 8, polished by diamond polishing paste, due to surface waveness. 5. Proper surface smoothness could not be in the surface roughness analysis of SEM and profilometer by Shofu laminate polishing kit composed of Diamond point, Durawhite stone and Ceramiste points. Based on the results of this study, the following conclusions can be drawn. We obtain low surface roughness than glazed surface by polishing instruments, but not perfect results clinically. In order to obtain a perfect clinical result or a surface smoothness comparable to glazed porcelain there is a need for further improvement of porcelain materials, condensa-tion techniques, polishing instruments and polishing methods. Furthermore card should be taken not to breakdown the glazed surface during the clinical and laboratory procedure.
Esler, Michael B.;Gishen, Mark;Francis, I.Leigh;Dambergs, Robert G.;Kambouris, Ambrosias;Cynkar, Wies U.;Boehm, David R.
Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
/
2001.06a
/
pp.1523-1523
/
2001
The wine industry requires practical methods for objectively measuring the composition of both red wine grapes on the vine to determine optimal harvest time; and of freshly harvested grapes for efficient allocation to vinery process streams for particular red wine products, and to determine payment of contract grapegrowers. To be practical for industry application these methods must be rapid, inexpensive and accurate. In most cases this restricts the analyses available to measurement of TSS (total soluble solids, predominantly sugars) by refractometry and pH by electropotentiometry. These two parameters, however, do not provide a comprehensive compositional characterization for the purpose of winemaking. The concentration of anthocyanin pigment in red wine grapes is an accepted indicator of potential wine quality and price. However, routine analysis for total anthocyanins is not considered as a practical option by the wider wine industry because of the high cost and slow turnaround time of this multi-step wet chemical laboratory analysis. Recent work by this ${group}^{l,2}$ has established the capability of near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy to provide rapid, accurate and simultaneous measurement of total anthocyanins, TSS and pH in red wine grapes. The analyses may be carried out equally well using either research grade scanning spectrometers or much simpler reduced spectral range portable diode-array based instrumentation. We have recently expanded on this work by collecting thousands of red wine grape samples in Australia. The sample set spans two vintages (1999 and 2000), five distinct geographical winegrowing regions and three main red wine grape varieties used in Australia (Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot). Homogenized grape samples were scanned in diffuse reflectance mode on a FOSE NIR Systems6500 spectrometer and subject to laboratory analysis by the traditional methods for total anthocyanins, TSS and pH. We report here an analysis of the correlations between the NIR spectra and the laboratory data using standard chemometric algorithms within The Unscrambler software package. In particular, various subsets of the total data set are considered in turn to elucidate the effects of vintage, geographical area and grape variety on the measurement of grape composition by NIR spectroscopy. The relative ability of discrete calibrations to predict within and across these differences is considered. The results are then used to propose an optimal calibration strategy for red wine grape analysis.
Dambergs, Robert G.;Kambouris, Ambrosias;Schumacher, Nathan;Francis, I. Leigh;Esler, Michael B.;Gishen, Mark
Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
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2001.06a
/
pp.1253-1253
/
2001
The ability to accurately assess wine quality is important during the wine making process, particularly when allocating batches of wines to styles determined by consumer requirements. Grape payments are often determined by the quality category of the wine that is produced from them. Wine quality, in terms of sensory characteristics, is normally a subjective measure, performed by experienced winemakers, wine competition judges or winetasting panellists. By nature, such assessments can be biased by individual preferences and may be subject to day-to-day variation. Taste and aroma compounds are often present in concentrations below the detection limit of near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy but the more abundant organic compounds offer potential for objective quality grading by this technique. Samples were drawn from one of Australia's major wine shows and from BRL Hardy's post-vintage wine quality allocation tastings. The samples were scanned in transmission mode with a FOSS NIR Systems 6500, over the wavelength range 400-2500 ㎚. Data analysis was performed with the Vision chemometrics package. With samples from the allocation tastings, the best correlations between NIR spectra and tasting data were obtained with dry red wines. These calibrations used loadings in the wavelengths related to anthocyanins, ethanol and possibly tannins. Anthocyanins are a group of compounds responsible for colour in red wines - restricting the wavelengths to those relating to anthocyanins produced calibrations of similar accuracy to those using the full wavelength range. This was particularly marked with Merlot, a variety that tends to have relatively lower anthocyanin levels than Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. For dry white wines, calibrations appeared to be more dependent on ethanol characteristics of the spectrum, implying that quality correlated with fruit maturity. The correlations between NIR spectra and sensory data obtained using the wine show samples were less significant in general. This may be related to the fact that within most classes in the show, the samples may span vintages, glowing areas and winemaking styles, even though they may be made from only one grape variety. For dry red wines, the best calibrations were obtained with a class of Pinot Noir - a variety that tends to be produced in limited areas in Australia and would represent the least matrix variation. Good correlations were obtained with a tawny port class - these wines are sweet, fortified wines, that are aged for long periods in wooden barrels. During the ageing process Maillard browning compounds are formed and the water is lost through the barrels in preference to ethanol, producing “concentrated” darkly coloured wines with high alcohol content. These calibrations indicated heaviest loadings in the water regions of the spectrum, suggesting that “concentration” of the wines was important, whilst the visible and alcohol regions of the spectrum also featured as important factors. NIR calibrations based on sensory scores will always be difficult to obtain due to variation between individual winetasters. Nevertheless, these results warrant further investigation and may provide valuable Insight into the main parameters affecting wine quality.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.17
no.3
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pp.85-98
/
2015
Modern fashion shows the trend of various styles and the period focusing on only product functions is changed to the period focusing on consumer's sensibility. Consumers show different sensitivities and preference by individual at the stage cognizing and recognizing the stimulation of given image and the method of objective measurement based on the fashion sensible vocabularies is necessary to measure fashion sensibility. Therefore, this research is significant to examine differences of preference to classic fashion by generation and awareness for sensible vocabularies and suggest methodology of design sensible evaluation research through the quantitative evaluation objectifying subjective sensibility. For the method of research, precedent theses related to classic, concept and characteristics of classic in books and definition and characteristics by generation were examined, the best 3 domestic portal sites were selected and adjective vocabularies and images related to classic were collected from 2010 to 2014. Among the 206 adjectives collected, vocabularies whose average is more than 3.5 were drawn by 5-point Likert scale for fashion expert group. And, among the total 306 images collected, 21 representative images were selected by preliminary investigation of fashion expert group. For the classic images and vocabularies selected, frequency analysis, factor analysis and variance analysis were conducted by SPSS 19.0. The results of analysis are as follows. Preference to classic fashion image by generation was analyzed. As a result, both of two generations selected classic fashion as the most classic one. The images of the next orders were analyzed. As a result, Y generation selected basic classic fashion image which is casual with high activity as a classic one. Baby boom generation selected ancient classic fashion image, so there were differences in preference for classic by generation. As a factor analysis on classic adjective vocabularies, they could be divided into 5 factors such as basic form, attractive form, traditional form, vintage form and active form and they verified that credibility of all measuring variables for classic sensible vocabularies was achieved. Differences of classic sensible vocabularies by classic fashion image and generation were examined. As a result, generation and classic fashion image made a significant effect on five factors. Therefore, there were differences of the awareness on classic fashion images and sensible vocabularies among the generations and this thesis can be a fundamental material which objectifies subjective sensibility and suggests the methodology of new research.
Most investigators recommended that porcelain surface should be roughened with abrasives and/or be etched with acid in repairing the fractured porcelain with composite resin. This study was designed to evaluate the effect of porcelain surface treatments on the bond strength between porcelain and composite resin by measuring the shear bond strength and observing the porcelain surface with SEM. 48 porcelain disc were fabricated with Vintage porcelain and embedded in epoxy resin with the test surface exposed. The specimens were divided four groups at random and the test surfaces of the four groups were prepared as follows : Group 1 : Porcelain surface was roughened with a fine diamond and treated with 32% phosphoric acid gel for 10 seconds. Group 2 : Porcelain surface was roughened with a fine diamond and etched with 8% hydrofluoric acid gel for 5 minutes. Group 3 : Porcelain surface was roughened with a coarse diamond and treated with 32% phosphoric acid gel for 10 seconds. Group 4 : Porcelain surface was roughened with a coarse diamond and etched with 8% hydrofluoric acid gel for 5 minutes. All specimens were washed for 30 seconds. A representative specimen of each group was selected and the porcelain surface was observed with SEM at 1000 magnification. Remaining specimens were silanated, bonded with composite resin, thermocycled, and shear-tested on specially designed zig connected to Instron machine. The results were as follows : 1. The shear bond strength of the group etched with hydrofluoric acid was significantly higher than that of group treated with phosphoric acid(p<0.01). 2. The shear bond strength of the group roughened with a fine diamond was not significantly different from that of the group roughened with a coarse diamond(p>0.01). 3. SEM examination of prepared porcelain surfaces revealed that the surface etched with hydrofluoric acid showed numerous microporosities, undercut, and rougher surface than the surface treated with phosphoric acid. 4. All specimens etched with hydrofluoric acid showed cohesive failure within porcelain, but specimens treated with phosphoric acid mainly showed adhesive failure between porcelain and composite resin.
Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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v.38
no.12
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pp.1740-1745
/
2009
In this study, effect of resveratrol concentration on wine taste was investigated. Content of resveratrol in 14 different wines were quantified using HPLC. The resveratrol concentrations in the Australian wine samples (grape species: Syrah) with 3 vintage years were analyzed and different concentrations of resveratrol were observed (2.89-3.84 mg/L). Variation in wine grape species with the same wine manufacturer (Chile, 2006) and variation in different manufacturing country of origin with same wine grape species (Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006) also produced the variations in resveratrol concentration. The preference analysis (color, aroma, taste,astringency and overall acceptability) of the sample wines were determined by 15 panelists using 5-point hedonic scale. When the analysis results of the resveratrol concentrations in the sample wines were compared with the preference analysis of sample wines, the resveratrol concentration in the wine produced the positive effects in the wine preference analysis in the factors of aroma, taste and color.
Hydrogen energy is emphasized as a substitutable energy of carbon-based energy system in the future, since it is non-depletable and clean energy. Long term vision of Korean government on the national energy system is to promote hydrogen energy by 15% of final energy demand until 2040. This study analyzes economic impacts of hydrogen energy development employing a dynamic CGE model for Korea. Frontier technology such as hydrogen energy is featured as slow diffusion at the initial stage due to the learning effect and energy complementarity. Without government intervention, hydrogen energy would be produced upto 6.5% of final energy demand until 2040. However, if government subsidizes sales price of hydrogen energy by 10%, 20%, and 30%, share of hydrogen energy would increase 9.2%, 15.2%, and 37.7% of final energy demand. This result shows that the slow diffusion problem of hydrogen energy as frontier technology could be figured out by market incentive policy. On the other hand, production levels of transportation sector would increase while growth rate of oil and electricity sectors would decline. Household consumption would be affected negatively since increase of consumption due to the price decrease would be overwhelmed by income reduction owing to the increase of tax. Overall, GDP would not decrease or increase significantly since total production, investment, and export would increase even if household consumption declines.
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